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tubafan
ParticipantI believe some chest freezers use a tilt switch in the lid – probably part of the light fitting – but don’t know if that’s the case here. Another option would be that the feed wire to the light has broken where it flexes with the lid opening and closing.
tubafan
ParticipantIs it definitely installed correctly as built-in appliances can often get installed without the correct ventilation requirements? I expect it likely is ok or one of the Miele technicians would have flagged it by now, but it’s worth a check.
April 15, 2023 at 11:17 am in reply to: Bosch Fridge Freezer, Light goes on when door closed after electricity power cut #486556tubafan
ParticipantIs it fully on with the door closed or only dimly lit, as if dimly lit that may be correct depending on the ambient temperature in the room (as per this post). Doesn’t explain why it doesn’t come on when the door is open though.
tubafan
ParticipantThe fridge only has to get down to about +3C so I imagine it could attain that even if the freezer can’t get down to -18C.
tubafan
ParticipantAssume the compressor is cutting out before it gets down to temperature, as if it’s running continuously and is still too warm then it’s more likely to be a refrigeration system fault rather than a sensor or thermostat one?
April 2, 2023 at 8:43 pm in reply to: Oven seal spare help – Bertazzoni AHS0JEAAX4D/MAS604MFESXE #486461tubafan
Participanttubafan
ParticipantJust seem 13 ohms after extra work – wow!!!
tubafan
ParticipantI think he’s written “Reading +200” – ie over 200 ohms.
I’d be going straight back to them with your evidence and a formal complaint as I fully agree it just looks like he couldn’t be asked to do the job.
On TT earthing where I live too and your 32 ohms is pretty decent – well done!tubafan
ParticipantMotor capacitor failed perhaps, as that would make a noise sound from the motor trying to start?
tubafan
ParticipantNeil_P_South wrote:
…Can i just check – by selector switch, do you mean the one that sets mode, or the one that sets temp?
The one that sets the mode – eg fan or bottom heat only.
tubafan
ParticipantThe thermostat tube is fine – it’s a capillary tube so some of it being in the oven is no issue. You said the oven doesn’t get to temperature on some settings and that won’t be the thermostat doing that, it’ll either be an element or the selector switch.
tubafan
ParticipantIf the elements all meter ok and the connections to them are fine then the selector switch seems the next most likely candidate.
tubafan
Participantandyjawa wrote:… The SGS series that came after that was less reliable, …
Don’t let my SGS5312 hear you saying that as it’s just over 23 years old. I’ve done a few repairs in that time – the usual track repair around the heater relay; motor capacitor; bottom door seal; and recently a new inlet valve – but they are all small things and I must say it’s been one of the best value white good purchases I’ve ever made. I’ll be very sad when it does inevitable wear out as I’m rather fond of it.
tubafan
Participantelectrofix wrote: As far as i know the Miele standard warranty has always been 2 year but the do promotions every now and then for 5 or 10 years
Don should be able to confirm this
Dave
I’m sure it wasn’t that long ago that only their cheapest machines had 2 years but everything else had 5 years with reasonably regular promotions to increase that to 10 years.
tubafan
ParticipantWhat worries me is that Miele now only offer a 2 year warranty, even on models that cost over £2000. To me that doesn’t say a lot for their confidence in the machines and would absolutely stop me from buying one, especially given that you are pretty much forced to use Miele to carry out any repairs once out of warranty.
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