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Thanks both. We’ve just been given a Miele F12020 S-2 via Freecycle which seems like a nice bit of kit and according to its instructions is good down to -15c. It’s of course smaller than our old one but I wasn’t going to turn it down for free!
I would think the most likely cause is the hob surround being knocked by pans and chipped. Unless immediately repaired moisture will then get underneath the paint and cause what we see in the photo. Cost cutting in production likely isn’t helping as good surface preparation and the use of a suitable primer will slow any rust spread but exactly what is done in the factory I have no idea.
Might be worth checking this thread as there a known ‘no power’ issue on some Beko machines caused by a single diode – https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/861856-beko-wdr7543121w-sudden-no-power
This on eBay perhaps – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256302851741
I’m puzzled why the electrician doesn’t think it should be Part P notified as surely anything with a new RCBO is a new circuit and new circuits are notifiable.All sounds very suspect to me.
The Product Information for the hob says “- Power management options for 16A, 13A or 10A connection: limit the maximum power if needed (depends on fuse protection of electric installation)” so one would hope that a UK spec version with a 13A plug is limited correctly and would be safe in a 13A socket. However as stated earlier you need to check that the double socket is part of the ring and not a spur as a spur would need the wiring upgraded if you are going to plug the oven and the hob into it.
Had the same issue on an old Belling cooker a few years ago and it was a failed oven stat. I took the old one apart and the contacts had become loose inside so were touching together even though it was off. It was noticed due to a hot smell coming from the oven. I’m not sure how long the oven element would’ve lasted like that as of course it was running without the fan blowing air across it.
As per Dave’s post above DO NOT mess inside microwave ovens unless you are very sure about what you are doing because if you get things wrong the outcome won’t be good.
The dimmer switch I have has an adjustment screw inside to set the minimum dimming level. If I set it too low the lamps will dim to a lower level just fine but will then not start again if you switch them off and back on with the low level set. If I then turn up the dimmer they will then start. The instructions on the dimmer say to set the adjustment at the lowest level that will allow the lamps to start when the dimmer is turned right down (it’s a push button start type).
I’ve got a couple of dimmable Sylvania 8.5W lamps on a cheap Wickes dimmer and they work fine. It is a leading edge dimmer but is marked as suitable for LEDs. They don’t go down as low as the previous dimmer I had with incandescent lamps but it’s been working just fine for over two years.
As this appears to be a electronically controlled oven I’d start by taking a look at the controller PCB as it sounds like it’s crashing and resetting. Probably a power supply issue.
The answers are in the Consumption Table from the Bosch website. Note that the Mixed Load programme is only for 3.5kg whereas Cottons can do the full 8kg.
I’m probably going to get a Beko to replace it as I’m not at all convinced the new Bosch machines are worth what they charge for them, especially as I assume they still have the rather fragile heater assemblies?
I believe most electric fan ovens run at about 2000W but multi function ones might pull more if they are set for top and bottom heat for example, and I suspect that’s where a quoted 3000W will come from. We’ve always managed just fine with a simple fan only electric oven but I know some people swear by the multi function ones.
