Forum Replies Created
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WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: AEG 40010VI – 911935627/03 Dishwasher
Than you Kaibart. All sorted now. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Ikea/Electrolux Dishwasher – 911679010/04
Having gone through the machine with a fine tooth comb, checking possible reversed connections, anti flood switch (leakage switch}, plugging into a separate socket with extension lead, etc etc etc, I could still find no obvious fault with the appliance, which remained completely lifeless. I came to the conclusion, but without any real confidence, that the new module must be faulty, as unlikely as that is. At this point the customer must have reached the point of alarm, and decided to replace the dishwasher. In over thirty years in the business, this is a first for me.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Ikea/Electrolux Dishwasher – 911679010/04
Dave, Having studied the wiring diagram you sent me, I can see no sign of another PCB as mentioned by Kaibart. Looking at the diagram, I can see there are three parts common to the incoming supply. They are the heater (unlikely to be the problem), the pressure switch and the leakage switch? Is the leakage switch the door switch? I am wondering if this switch works like the Bosch integrated door switch, where the supply to the display is disconnected when the door is closed? Can I really have been fooled by this? In any event, I can only see either this leakage switch, or the pressure switch being the possible problem from what I can see on the diagram. Any ideas? Cheers. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Ikea/Electrolux Dishwasher – 911679010/04
Thank you so much for the info. I’ll let you know the outcome. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint LFT04 UK/TA
Cheers Jim. I did have a visual on the door harness, but it didn’t ring true in my head with the fault. Yes that would be very helpful please. Email address is stephenwhitehead@btinternet.com . Many thanks for your help. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: AEG F86050VI -PNC 91123472602
Cheers Dave. No it isn’t overfilling. It begins to leak straight away. If I divert the leak away, it fills up and away it goes beautifully. Until the next time it fills. I am of the opinion that the fault has to be in the new part. There is definitely no blockage in the sump, and I don’t think the softener unit will be the culprit. I really just needed a second opinion. I am always dubious about blaming new parts, though over the years I have had my fair share. It looks as if I will be ringing Maddocks first thing on monday morning. Thank you for your help and I will keep you posted. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Lamona (Beko?) Dishwasher 13-514356-07
Sorry Seamy. I didn’t realise I had done that. I have reposted the enquiry. Thank you. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Britannia SIE10XG-CL-GC Range Cooker
Thank you Simon, I think I will work on that basis. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Miele G646-3 SC Plus
Latest on this one. It pumps out then fills for seven seconds, then the inlet/drain led flashes four times, then the led stays on for approx four seconds and fills at the same time. It cycles in this way 25 times, then the inlet/drain light stays on and nothing else happens. If I restart it, it does the same thing again. Does anyone know the relevance of four flashes of the inlet/drain led please? It must be an error code? Cheers. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Miele G646-3 SC Plus
Cheers Alanj, I will check this one out. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: ISE 10 – 1606W
Thank you K. I will check it out. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: John Lewis JLTDC01 – 91609605600
I have been back with the aid of the supplied tech info, (many thanks to electrofix) and gone through the diagnostics checks. I keep getting fault code E32, with is described as “conductimetric sensing oscillation frequency too low” ?? This equates a fault in the moisture detection side. I have checked both brushes and both are ok, and I have tried a new NTC, but to no avail. I am now left with two possibilities. Either there is a fault within the gas system, or the main PCB is faulty. I am getting no heat on the timed side, so am dubious as to which of these possibilities is most likely? It’s a good job my customer, to whom I have been going for many years, is patient! Any more input greatly appreciated fellas. Cheers. Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Bosch oven
Is it a special clock of some kind? Most clocks have a maximum of 6 connections. 2 for the supply and 2 each on the two relays. It doesn’t sound like a clock problem to me if the fan is coming on. Have you bridged the relays out? Steve.
WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: John Lewis JLTDC01 – 91609605600
Dave, Yes that is the way it seems to work. There is a small lift out panel on the side of the evaporator, and the temperature is quite low. {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} degress does seem to be a fair drying temperature, so I would guess that you are correct.
Mikehha, Low gas is a possibility, but unlikely, I think a blockage is more likely.
timdowning, Yes, I am in the same situation that you were. I will try the NTC, and after that I will have to assume a fault within the system.
Thanks for your help fellas. Steve.WhiteVanMan1
ParticipantRe: Neff dishwasher stopping mid prog.
Possible reed switch or pump? Does it pump out on reset?
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