1totalshambles

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Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 289 total)
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  • in reply to: Bauknecht WA2140 program fault #451597
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Bauknecht WA2140 program fault

    Hi. Possible cause might be the heater has failed. If you have a multimeter that is easy to check less so if it has earth leakage to neutral.
    Cannot be certain but based on a WA2140 855496101001 version of a possble 3 or 4 other versions the heater is about 74 quid via Partmaster! The timer was not listed which means 1) it just happens to be not listed! or 2) it is now obsolete. With a bit of luck it won`t be the programmer. Your machine, as you probably know, is really based on a Whirlpool as the 85………number is a Whirlpool model code.
    If it is your heater you might find one by using this site`s enquiry form and email them. Your might need your serial number which is the other long number below it via sticky label.

    in reply to: Montpellier MWD7512S – Washer Dryer not drying #451564
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Montpellier MWD7512S – Washer Dryer not drying

    If there is one, has the thermal over load thermostat clicked out perhaps? Heater duff? I had a look on partmaster parts for you but not much in the way of info listed only their usual over priced spares.

    in reply to: Error code E13 on SMEG WDI12C6 washer dryer #388821
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Error code E13 on SMEG WDI12C6 washer dryer

    This is and old post revisited.
    And this includes rebadged Siemens and the rebadged Bosch versions. Usually this is the rather naff dryer element running to earth. Very rarely is it the door lock. If you have a megger and test the dryer element cold with its wires removed it will probably read ok. If you put it on a drying cycle for 10 mins the insulation of the element starts to break down and once again you should retest the element with wires removed, you`ll probably find that the earth leakage has increased; the element is listed at a mouth watering £133 ( its robbery for what it is! ) and the new element has a simple rewire modification ( inst in the box ) Note: it is unlikely you`ll get the screws undone for the new guide / anchor heater spring screws undone buit you can with care use the original setup. Now you can also get E13 appear on wash or rinses too because the dryer element also receives a live but no neutral return ( in other words it isn`t going to work ) but since the element is faulty this live back feeds to the pcb via earth and temporarily messes it up giving you E13. Very misleading which is why you should always distrust some fault codes. Conclusion: it`ll probably be the dryer element faulty rather than the door lock so to prove a point mark your dryer wires with a marker pen and also write where they go on paper too and pull them off the heater. Obviously you can`t use the machine as a dryer but you can use the machine as a washing machine either forever or temporarily without E13 messing proceedings up. Hope this helps someone.

    in reply to: AEG Lavamat Washing Machine Fault – Countdown from 2-0 #451427
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: AEG Lavamat Washing Machine Fault – Countdown from 2-0

    Taking a guess as no pnc number given 91………/.. I`d be having a look at the motor brushes first to see if they are worn out if indeed it has motor brushes??? if it does and they are worn out there maybe several different types because there are several different motors fitted.Enquire via this site parts dept armed with the make of your motor e.g. Ce-set or Sole, and your pnc / product code or send them a picture / link if that is possible.

    in reply to: Zanussi ZWT 71201 WA washer/dryer. Dead. #451488
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi ZWT 71201 WA washer/dryer. Dead.

    Looks like the suppessor is a gonna or much more likely, based on a similar one I had a couple of months ago, it`ll be the pcboard and if it is they`re not cheap to buy as you`d no-doubt expect. Go to Zanussi spares and look up your pnc or product code for your specific version ( as read off the sticky label ) which will then X ref to ZWT71201A to make sure. Might have to get the manufacturers out or maybe a pre configured pcboard is listed. Either way a bit of bad luck.

    in reply to: Miele WT2670 (SN: 86670744) leaking 2-3 days after use #451335
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Miele WT2670 (SN: 86670744) leaking 2-3 days after use

    Side panel off! No idea! But you normally take the front panel off or it hinges on the right.

    in reply to: Induction motor ? #451500
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Induction motor ?

    Yes your right KWatt. I`m confused here because I`ve just looked up on partmaster and it shows a brush motor as an alternative to the obsolete original. Back to Poster: is this a brush motor that you have or an unknown version with the same model number based on a serial number with a brushLESS induction motor??

    in reply to: Induction motor ? #451498
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Induction motor ?

    “The drum spins nicely and the jerky stop-start symptoms point to the motor getting power intermittently” there`s only 5 things it can be 1) the drum bearings are shot 2) the motor is shot, 3) the belt is at fault or 4) there`s something wrong else where the motor is being fed power badly. 5) motor terminal block wires 1) you discounted. 2) is a possibility though if the motor bearings are ok it`ll be doubtful it`ll be the motor 3) discount that leaves 4 which will be a capacitor fail on the pcboard which is far more likely than a zapped motor. Whip the motor off, have a bloody good look at it if you think it is fine it`ll most likely be the or a pcb supplying poor power to the motor. OR 5) motor wires

    in reply to: Miele WT2670 (SN: 86670744) leaking 2-3 days after use #451333
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Miele WT2670 (SN: 86670744) leaking 2-3 days after use

    Could be almost anything. Isn`t this a washer dryer? A couple of pointers I`ve had in the past. 1) nail / bra wire half way through the sump hose rubber is one strong possibility 2) leaking rubber air trap chamber where the glues gone bad 3) poor filter seal 4) rotted out heater box – not likely. 5) something to do with the inlet hose perhaps 6) stand pipe part blockage and machine leaks at the rear of the machine and the water creeps forward? 7) pin prick hole in s/steel tank – probably very rare. I`ve run out of other ideas. If you do get to the bottom of it let us know please.

    in reply to: Use sand not concrete as machine weight? #451360
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Use sand not concrete as machine weight?

    Ha! Wonderful! Made me laugh that did. Thx.

    in reply to: Whirlpool AWO/C 7714 Cutting Out Mid Cycle #451322
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool AWO/C 7714 Cutting Out Mid Cycle

    Could be the pcb power chip failing or perhaps the suppessor fooling about or even the plug into the mains socket: faulty socket and or plug getting hot due to increase of amps on wash/heating cycle? That would give you suddenly no power and not necessarily take out a house trip. The click is the door lock ready to be opened since there is no longer any power to it I should imagine if just one click. The thing is though how long is it before you notice and reset the programme until it begins to work again, immediately or after an hour?

    in reply to: Power cut halfway washing cycle on indesit iwme126 #451276
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Power cut halfway washing cycle on indesit iwme126

    Bad luck and it would be an intergrated appliance! Sadly it is usually the power, bottom r/h/side corner, pcb has had it.Visually check this pcb but you might not see anything at fault or it might be visible from 100 yrds and blown up! BUT I`d also check motor brushes and the wires to the door interlock ( I`ve had the wires burn out at the interlock connector and the wires to the facia panel pcb just in case, first two are common faults.
    Note I`m pretty sure that any brand new pcb will be blank = won`t work unless either programmed via Indesit on site via their trusty money making lap top or you can buy a very expensive gizmo card reader that plugs in to the new pcb with a the suitable smart card for your model that slips into the reader, conclusion: you`d be well financially hammered either way. Only other suggestion is to get the pcb repaired if possible, QER in Cumbria perhaps? or buy a used one off ebay from a scrapper advertized for your model. Would of thought it will be easy to get then it`ll just be a case of swapping the wires over to s/hand pcb and hopefully all other things being checked before hand with fingers X`d it should then work.

    in reply to: Beko Washing Machine Handle Snapped Off #450368
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Beko Washing Machine Handle Snapped Off

    Thanks Lawrence. Will have a go again next time, as there no doubt will be another again at some point, and try the spoon / flat screw driver trick. Only reason seized door lock was mentioned was I had one in February and didn`t want our DIY chap to break the machine by forcing the door. Did originally have a bash with screwdriver but it didn`t work for me hence flicking the striker from the inside as described..

    in reply to: Zanussi ZWF1000M Drain/Spin problem #451130
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi ZWF1000M Drain/Spin problem

    Via Zanussi parts site tank appears to be sealed type at £132 but it is the way they`ve drawn it and then they also mention another part at 88 quid as a tank kit with no picture makes me have an element of doubt still so no further forward on this, typical!.
    Well there could be a heater problem revisited in way of the heater to have a slight earth leakage = still heats, trip does not go, but messes around the pcb ( all sounds far fetched but it is getting very common on washing machines in general ) BUT they don`t usually cause a reduction of spin speed but anything is possible. You could have a play as follows: put a NORMAL SIZE towel load in the machine, set on 40 or 60, get the machine nice and hot ( because if there is an earth leakage it`ll now be at its worst / highest ), turn off power, set machine to spin and see what, if anything, happens. You could then disconnect both heater wires and insulate unless there`s no need to, turn power back on, set to spin again then start and watch and listen. If machine now spins at 1000 there`s your answer buy a new element if still no joy it looks as though pcb was at fault all along, think pcb about 108 quid via zanussi site and the heater is rather a rip off 45 quid; welcome to the wacky appliance world.

    in reply to: lg f1480yd6 dead no display #450168
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: lg f1480yd6 dead no display

    Thanks, and thank heavens for that. Components. Tip of an iceberg. Look at one of the top range Bosch washer dryers at circ 700 quid where the printed circuit power board retail price is about £315 and all the relays are Chinese made same goes for a 217 quid priced Samsung pcb and if you looked at a Pro Action washing machine £160 from Argos you`d find the same pcb relays, just less of `em, with a pcb at 80 quid or often as clearance stock at 40 quid or less. And my point is? Well the obvious.

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 289 total)