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Re: samsung washer dryer
Got it! Over loaded on tumble drying so over heated so took out the resettable o/load stat. User was a little over enthusiastic with the loading!
Re: Bosch Classixx7 Door Gasket / Silicone Seal Ring
Just a point to add!
The tear in the seal. Does the tear look as though something cut it OR looking from the back of the seal did it look as though it was worn, then a tear? Are there any worn / scuffs anywhere else on the inside back of the seal? Only ask you because when the bottom suspension legs wear out the seal rubs on the concrete weight = a friction rubbed split. You would most likely have the odd mechanical banging noise too as the tank unit whacks the inside of the chassis.Re: Logik K712WM13 E70 Error
Via the factory service booklet ( not the customer hand book ) E70 does not exist only up to E60 and E61 does, also K712wm13 does not exist but L712wm13 does- a typo? Based on that before you moved the machine it worked just fine. And based that E70 is not listed read the whole of what follows first before doing anything.
If this was the first wash you tried upon moving in to your new pad 1) make sure the tap is really switched on i.e. if you have one of those blue plastic lever taps the plastic moves but the bit undernneath often doesn`t! = still turned off. And 2) which is also a posibility the pressure switch has water trapped inside it if carried on its side in transit in which case TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE MACHINE, remove work top lid, pressure switch is the round shaped component top r/h/side with the thin hose attached and 3 OR 4 terminals. Pull off this thin hose from the pressure switch DO NOT PULL OFF ANY WIRES. Blow down the thin rubber hose followed by gently blow in to the pressure switch which should click on blow and declick on release of the pressure being released if it doesn`t that`ll be the problem. 3) if no clicks are heard tap the pressure switch with handle of a screw driver then blow in to it again. If lucky the pressure switch will now click and declick. REFIT THE PRESSURE SWITCH HOSE then try to fill on a wash programme. It important that you hang around to make sure that the water cuts off on, say, a cotton fill programme – water a little over or below the bottom of the door seal ( otherwise you`ll get a “Xmas special” = a massive flood as the machine will fill and fill – yeeks! ). 4 Also make absolutely sure that if the machine is plumbed out on to a sink nozzle that the previous owners have not sealed it off by use of a bung or otherwise the machine will not pump the water away. OR 5 if plumbed out down a stand pipe the outlet hose is only down the plastic stand pipe 6 inches: stuffed down to the U bend you risk the syphon of water affect = when the machine does fill it fills as fast as it syphons /drains away ( the same effect happens if the standpipe is not high enough / long enough too ) and I`d check points 1, 4 or 5 before doing anything with the pressure switch check just in case this is all it is.
Any technical information google Partmaster then follow the links to type in your model, hit the list until you see Service Manual and click GO and a pdf will crop up and all the info is there as a Chinese attempt at an iffy English translation with pictures. No other manufacture makes technical stuff available to Joe Public so count yourselves being rather lucky in this respect, a triumph of post revolutionary Maoist thinking perhaps?
Re: Faulty Russel Hobbs washing machine!
Follow what follows carefully because the text will jump about a fair amount. If you still have the machine. Does this machine actually spin a NORMAL sized load when you try it without water being in the machine? And when you put set the machine on a cottons wash does 1) the machine fill and 2) the drum actually tumble in a normal fashion? What might have happened is: some of these machines were originally fitted with a Chinese copy of a Ce-set made motor where the brushes are apt to wear out fast and note one brush wears out 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} quicker than t`other so your first point of call is to check the motor brushes in the plural. On some productions the motor was replaced by a Sole type motor as used by Zanussi and some Hotpoint models which, at least from the brush point of view is more reliable ( though on yours once again it`ll PROBABLY be a Chinese copy version with the brush wire terminals pointing out of the top of the brush holder and the plastic holders were usually green*). If you have that motor check once again the motor brushes AND the tacho coil and magnet which is underneath the tacho coil- usually the magnet comes undone on its thread and usually pushes out the coil = the machine aborts any programme on programmer count down including any pump out = give the impression of no pump out due to a blockage when there isn`t one! *Note: both the ceset motor and the Sole look a like motors do not have the same brushes per motor type ( to complicate things even more! ) so note the angle of cut at the ends of the brushes i.e. points to the left or points to the right because you will need to match these against a spares picture to get the right ones-this is important because officially motor brushes do not exist for your model only a complete new motor which will write it off on cost alone unless you stumble on a discounted one via E-bay.
Other things it could be: If fitted with a digital type pressure switch which is usual a blue colour ( the water level sensor – that is the component fitted on the top r/h/side with a thin longish hose that disappears below the machine on the r/h/side to a cylindrical shaped plastic chamber = air trap ) the air trap could be blocked up/ part blockage = the machine over fills but on pump out the air will not escape quick enough and there is no spin and the machine then also can abort the programme. Can`t think what else it could be.Re: No fast spin
Probably just the air trap blocked up. If you still have it find the pressure switch r/h/side top of machine and track down the thin black pipe to the air trap. Clean this out and it should work. What you might have had is what I call an inververted blockage where the machine actually over fills but you do no know this `cause nothing leaks, on pump out the air trapped in the p/swt pipe cannot escape fast enough = the machine does indeed spin, kind of, but then dies a death 800 to max spin in the given time available given the blockage. The motor brushes may well be out soon too as you say but these are cheap your machine should be fitted with a Selini motor so the brushes should be less than 20 quid. Well worth having a go at repairing despite moans groans and grumbling from elsewhere as these machines are reasonably fair or put it another way I know of £420 Bosch that never made it to their 4th birthday – drum bearing failure. There are a lot of appliance snobs that abound various forums; take no notice, take what you have and fix it.
Re: AEG lavamat turbo 16830 door locking fault
No pnc code given but to hazzard a guess. Isn`t this machine a washer dryer, rather than a washing machine? If so you could try the following.
Mark with a perm marker pen the wires that go to the tumble dryer element. Pull those wires off. Refit, if you haven`t already done so, your interlock switch and then try. If the machine works several times to the end i.e. completes a wash/rinse/spin cycle what has happened is your dryer element has run part to earth ( but not enough to take out a trip let alone a fuse ) the earth leakage back feeds into the pcboard proccessor ( the curse of many a 21st century man and woman! ) even if the dryer function is not preset. How come? What often happens with the way these machines, and others, are wired is that the dryer element may well receive a live ( though no neutral ) whilst on the wash cycle. It is often all a bit hit and miss, very confusing and a little abstract to track down. I think this is the cause of your problem and if so a new dryer heater as a genuine part via my rather dodgy memory is circ 46 quid ish.
As for damaged or burnt door lock tags. If they are genuinely burnt and it is not black brush dust ( no idea what version you have = no pnc ) then mark where the wires go on the connector plug and cut and singulary re tag them using insulated female tags as a preference.
Unlikely at this stage that the pcb is u/s because the machine sometimes works….locks if nothing else. If a locking triac blows, well it has blown and the machine would not even start.Re: Some Baumatic prices
£150.14 for a door seal
brush motor £1386.29
element £148.09
intergrated door hinge kit £273.14
rubber foot £63.01
drum pulley £150.14
programmed pcb £526.31.On the tipple…..of course! However, these prices were correct at the time. Maybe they made a mistake and changed the prices, they watch this site too, I didn`t make a mistake when I was looking up a part for someone.
Re: Family washing machine
Old post.
My take is to have bought another Indesit but a “My Time ” model where all the important programmes are an hour or so, £230 buys you one.
The Bosch WAP28378GB also has a sealed tank ( just looked it up ) as per all modern Indesits difference is 1) both tanks are apt to fail: had a nearly 3 year Bosch tank fail @ 2 weeks ago £217.26 for the new tank + LABOUR and CALLOUT £ …..? Couple with no children…abysmal quality based on this. It was scrapped. If / or rather when the Indesit tank fails it`ll be under a 10 year freebee parts warranty so you would be only stung for £110 labour/call out.
Buying the Bosch only makes sense if you get a better warranty chucked in to the purchase deal if you don`t frankly I wouldn`t bother with Bosch, frankly I wouldn`t buy anything circ 400 quid and certainly nothing anymore with the exception of one of those 1000 quid Miele promotion models ( no I wouldn`t but someone might ) where you get free parts and free labour and call out for 10 years……whooppeee I hear you say £100 a year…. except for the fact that after the 10 years you will be hammered mercilessly on the spares / labour costs; in other words that 1000 quid machine IN COMPARISION was not such a good deal afterall even if it was built for 20 years use…..but notice no one ever mentions that it might cost an extra £500 in order to achieve it! I`d go for the Indesit and stuff the whole appliance charade after all if you were lucky and your Indesit pride and joy reached 5 to 7 years before it spat out its pcboard OR drum bearings you could say well I`ve had say, 7 years for example, out of it if I get the free part at £110 at that age what next, all I would need is another failure and I`ll be short of 80 quid ( allow for inflation but a total guess, who knows in 2 years times it could be running at 18{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} a year and those who laugh at this did not live through the 1970`s ) against a brand new replacement so call it a day there and then seems to be the most logical thing to do having cost you nothing in repairs other than a measley 230 odd quid to buy it. If your worried about the environment be very worried, I am, bloody terrified, either way it is a total cock-up: wrong type of plastics used for the last 40 years on appliances; leaving it all a bit too late.Re: Brunt switch
Had one of these Candy machines do this 7 years ago. As Iadom points out: see that big white sump smack in the middle as per your photo that will be where the internal and uncleanable air trap resides; easy to change this part ( order a new sump seal as well ) if you can still get the parts and if the rest of the machine is in reasonable nick, other than the blown suppressor which is no big deal money wise, well worth a bash compared with buying say, a new Bosch ( dreadful things: heat pump motors fail, sometimes several times ) as a replacement. I remember trying to clean the sump out but to be frank you never know how well you did since your working blind. The only thing you can do is change the sump. Brilliant for 15 years worth of use, well done, and look how easy it is to work on too; don`t get that these days!
Re: Diplomat ADP8342 error code E7
Most Diplomats were badged up Whirlpools but yours isn`t! It is a hybrid machine between an Indesit and a Belling often made in China but with different fault codes that are somewhat elusive to track down to say the least. Could be:
Tap looks on but its really off. Do you hear a faint buzz from the tap end since this machine should be fitted with an anti flood cut off hose? The under your sink outlet pipe nozzle still blanked off so machine will not pump out? The 2 most common faults when machines have been moved to new installations.
I`d check these two things first before doing anything else.Re: Ignis ADL 943 fault code 7
Can`t find ADL943 but can find Adl934. THINK your Ignis is a whirlpool ( should be a label on the s/steel door right hand side with a long set of numbers starting with 85 ) and if so it`ll probably be what is called the flow meter at fault which is a magnetic water counter ref time found behind the left hand side chassis side panel. Your looking at a semi transparent water chamber where the water shoots through it. There should be a connector block with 2 thin wires going to a little pcb / reed switch and it is located above the impellor counter`s moulding. You could first try giving it a light bash (!) and also check the 2 wire terminals. The reed switch often will read ok via an Ohms meter but is still the fault if open circuit Bobs ya uncle!. You`ll have to double check your model number on this one but the part is about 60 quid for the model as above I looked up ……not cheap for what it is but if it fixes the thing well, hey!
Re: Heater element
As far as known yes as I`d be inclined to fit a Beko 1800w element which should be the cheapest option followed by one of the Zanussi ones but beware some of those are a different tube diameter and are more expensive anyway.
If you live in a hard water area make sure that you are using salt and do not rely on 3in1 or such like tablets alone. Cylindrical heater failure is fairly common right across the board mind you Bosch heat pump failure is even worse, shocking rubbish.Re: Help for Bush DWFSG126B dishwasher
Looking at the picture the bottom row of micro switches look bent relative to the top row which would equal fractured solder pcb joints caused by the whole pcb within its plasic support frame not being attached to the facia plastic panel. Have a very close look and see if there are fractures in the switch legs and if so it might be repairable?
Re: door seal
What follows is “think” and not know and could be completely wrong spent several hours on and off on this so hope this helps.
Bush wdnsx86b door seal. See if you can find a made in China sticker on the ratings/model label or PRC = Peoples Republic Of China.
This washer dryer MIGHT be a Logik washer dryer model L612swd12 made in China. If you go to Partmaster and type the following number: 2444798pm OR E spares their part number is ES1640612 where a picture should emerge in all its glory but at £45.59 price then plus p & p. Now if you are 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} that this seal is the correct one because this bit is all guess work after looking at it in detail and matching it to what you have fitted on the Bush, try this: Go to Ebayuk and search item 291346307660, same seal, it comes up for a Haier washer dryer ( also made in China ) part @ a more reasonable price @ £21.17 as clearance stock ( Haier part number 0020300657b which is also listed by someone at a rip off 80 odd quid )
Hope this helps you and her..
If this does not help you come back and we`ll have another bash at ” project find the door seal ” with my so advanced (!) 21st Century computing power.A triumph of post revoluntionary Maoist thinking!
