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Re: Zanussi ZWF1000M Drain/Spin problem
“would it still be checking the balance, even on a drain cycle?” No it would not.
Difficult one this. Gut feeling is that the programmer has gone wrong though they don`t usually fail like you describe as as I`ve seen but there again I don`t just repair Zanussi. Best to check the motor / brushes which will be worn not necessarily worn out ? / wires which will probably be ok, the air trap for blockages and the pressure switch hose which once again it`ll be doubtful they will be faulty but check to make sure, any disaster can happen and that is not because it is Chinese or Thia! If the drum is actually wobbly loose that is the answer if it just the beginnings of noisy bearings and IF the tank unit is a sealed tank affair ( ? because you don`t give the prod code e.g. 91?????/?? ) then its a gonna anyway based on total cost, parts supply etc…anyway.Re: Wirlpool awo 10561 1200, acting illogicaly
Check first the heater/element for earth leakage. Then check the motor and its motor carbon brushes.
Re: Bosch WVG30461GB won’t lock and start
Great you got it fixed! And I was wrong about which board had come a cropper, learn something every day. Must admit all fair play to Bosch that you got a freebee replacement pcb. Sometimes getting the manufacturers in can work out very well.
Re: Logik L612WM13
E21 = pump out problem. If still shows this fault but does actually pump out water it is possible that pressure switch is at fault, it is quite common that they can fail either to cause over filling or the opposite = no filling at all or stuck on pump out because it thinks it has overfilled or blockage in air trap-follow the black hose from the pressure switch down to the air trap. There`s a rough / bad translation from Chinese on Partmaster just find your model and then find service manual. Tap side of pressure switch a few times with a screw driver handle, if that does cure it still change the pressure switch.
Re: Hotpoint HVl211 Washing Machine Won’t Start Any Cycle
As a long shot when the pump impellor was jammed it might have caused the pump windings to go open circuit / o/heat, from very iffy memory might start with a pump out and then supposed to fill. Most machines have the inlet valve part wired through the pump so if the pump zapps out electrically it won`t fill. If the machine is already part filled with water the pressure switch would sense that = no spin or if the water level was not reached for wash = no tumble as well depending on the programme you have it set to. If you can manually scoop out the water or siphon it out via o/let hose to deactivate the pressure switch
and then try it on spin only. If you have a multimeter try for a low Ohms reading / a reading between the live and neutral of the pump terminals, with the power off to the machine of course.Re: Hotpoint AQXXD169PMUK controller board?
“A faulty pressure switch would not make sense with an F1 fault” Very true, hence unlikely.
Glad you got it fixed. “It was the main PCB/power strip” = power board at the bottom corner, not at all surprised, well known area of mucho grief. Ebay second hand pcbs can be a real Godsend. Fingers crossed you don`t have anymore issues with the thing.Re: Really loud spinning noise
Clutching at straws cont…..Went to a Hotpoint wdud series today with a series of mechanical issues one of which was the front weight was loose where the one of the 3 large self tapping weight screws came very loose allowing its concave washer to rattle / act a bit like a snare drum cymbal that was the main fault other than of course a shifting concrete weight noise which gave the whole game away…..followed by a worn rear induction motor bearing, just becoming worn front drum bearing, a warped drum, worn suspension top pins, suspect bearing tube movement set in its plastic tank housing ( all really a bit academic = new tank unit ). That machine was 5.2 years old and at 9kg 1600 spin = what do you expect, same size as a semi industrial machine 15/25 years ago ( but spinning 600 rpm more ) that cost 1000`s of pounds ( and went wrong too ), surprised it lasted 5 years and a bit which weighing things up in a new 21st century of untold disasters is an achievement…sort of. Managed to tighten the weights torx screw but it will all be temporary and she knows that.
Look for any fine grey dust on the ground underneath at the front of the machine.
It is the strength and reliabilty that is built into every Hotpoint or should that really be with a free dust pan and brush with every sale!Re: lg f1480yd6 dead no display
WOW discounts off Ebay. WOW discounts is part of Connect aka Partmaster aka 6 other known sites all the same folks. Wow discounts is their E-bay store where stuff gets flogged off cheaper.
part number EBR65873679 just type this number as a search and it should crop up they had about 10 in stock.. eBAY ITEM 122316124991 but that might have changed since. £90.98 INCL P&P as opposed to about £130. This pcb is for the large bottom pcb as per my post. Make sure you have checked out the suppessor pcb-the one at the top r/h/side first.Best of luck hope it repairs your machine.
Re: Hotpoint AQXXD169PMUK controller board?
The control board is the one in the instrument/facia panel which I know nothing about. In general, usually with one of these 3 phase motored things it is the main pcb/power board that messes up – rear of machine l/h/side at the bottom if looking at the rear of machine. If it is that pcb that is at fault, and I cannot be of course 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure, it is only Hotpoint replaceable, though part supply companies fail to say that allowing the public to get stuck with a pcb they have tried and then cannot send back – shameful at the very least – due to having to be onsite programmed via lap top. The only other way is to have a plug in smart card gizmo/reader and a corresponding correct smart card plus of course a new pcb which based on cost is going to be def no no; Hotpoint scores 10 points, the Joe public once again scores 0! You might get lucky on ebay reclaimed stock and get a secondhand board which will be preprogrammed for 30 quid as a great deal of these machines seem to fail either as a pcb problem or drum bearing problem; pretty sure all the range are seal tanked too so unless your tank unit has been changed in the past and basing your model as one of the earlier efforts BEWARE OF SPENDING BIG BUCKS CHASING THIS THING. Only other thing it could be is an iffy pressure switch but that`s unlikely. Bad connections possibility, you`ll be lucky if it is. Other than that send the pcb out for repair perhaps to QER in Cumbria? Seems to me your caught in a spiralling downwards loop in a world of hurt on this one; your not the first and won`t be the last.
Re: IS THIS NORMAL?
“I’m deep undercover in enemy territory if you must know.shhh the code, wmb 91442lw no spin…traced to pcb…
May need a VIPER12A PWM SMPS Controller…….info limited…
All else is good….the search continues…”Hey, I`m also behind enemy lines too in more ways than one!
Your machine is fitted with the dreaded Askoll M500 induction motor which is well known as a source of grief. Underneath its plastic cover is a pcboard, all part of the motor, and that is the most likely problematic area. I have to be honest and say I have never replaced the motor as the motor is about £160 which is a robbery price / about half the price of the damn machine.
Your original question ref the chip: 50/50. Have seen this on other pcbs on other makes of machine and there`s nothing wrong. This part is still a suspect though and since it is cheap to replace that first and see what happens.
Back to the motor, there are a few articles written on this on the net but in German and French, have yet to stumble on anything in English but I didn`t spend a lot of time looking to be honest- try youtube? If you type in Askoll M500 Beko motor some stuff crops up.Re: 4 year old LG direct drive 8kg w machine F1280TD6
This is not your model but has a very similar, visually identical, pcboard set up and has been re-written for you. I do not guarantee buying a new pcb will solve your particular problem but very likely it will.
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Completely dead, no lights on the display, no nothing, FUSE OK!
Power from mains plug to the suppessor`s pcb ( on the top r/h/side of the chassis looking from the front ) and through suppessor to pink connector block so suppessor is not the fault which can happen with this part SO CHECK this part with a multimeter set to buzzer FIRST. Using multi meter, set to buzzer, traced wires through loom ( now note: the wires both neutral and live go into separate bullet connector blocks buried in the loom and worse still the wires then change to a different colour-all part of the Korean sense of humour! ) to the pcboard at the base of the machine within the plastic rectangular box. Looking from the rear of the machine: to remove this module/box there is a hidden screw on the left that holds the pcb to the plastic white base but due to the main bulk of the wires that enter it you`ll have trouble seeing it. Once unscrewed slide the box to the left and it will come away. To separate the two halves there is a second screw underneath at t`other end of the box. Then unclip.
On the machine I repaired the pcb looked perfect and no hint of a problem ( typical of pcbs ) and power, via m/meter, reaches it. Note that both live and neutral go to different twinned terminal blocks of differing pcb blocks to add to the fun and games.
I bit the bullet on this one and bought a new pcb £80 brand new off ebay from WOW discounts, wired it in, prayed hard, and…..it now works just fine. ( to compare prices your pcb for your F1280td6 model is Partmaster part number 2431708pm @ £121….robbery! wow discounts is part of Partmaster!!!! )
Note, these boards have potted components i.e. set in a resin for no other reasons to stop anyone replacing the any components – someone who designed this has obviously been on a business management course! The component that goes wrong is usually the big black 3″ high cylindrical capacitor.
The machine has been tested very well including t/drying and is now back to its normal self.Might not apply to you: whilst you have the lid off it might be a good time when testing after the repair to make sure the water circulating jet is not blocked- the orange thing at 12 o/clock top of the door seal, as this one was blocked up solid. These get blocked up very easily, silly design.
Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 1:39 pmRe: Really loud spinning noise
Since the machine has been this noisy for 6 months, no worse no better on spin you`d of thought disaster would have struck much ealier on after only 1 month max if it was a typical drum bearing failure…..very odd! Does sound like bearings but sounds like worn ungreased bearings to me in the drum or as a long shot the motor. Indesit dishwasher model 2262 from yonks back had the wash motor bearings making a similar noise because they used imported Thai bearings without any grease in them and the ball bearing`s rivet cage used to o/heat and break …oops! A bit academic really, still bearings I`ll grant you! Only other thing it could be is on some motors the amature is plastic coated and that might be a cause as the plastic comes off ( as per some zanussi motors of old ), a bit of a long shot too but does make a similar noise.
There`s a Turkish Servis I`m always going back to `cause of a jammed pump due to hair grips and that is always the issue, but my point is on spin the bearings have always sounded very much off key and that hasn`t changed over about 2 years but that one I reckon is caused by a squished bearing metal dust cover when the machine was made – best left alone me thinks, won`t have long to wait now as nature takes its course in anycase.
Turn power off. take back off, remove belt, spin drum by hand via door end- NOT via the pulley end as you`ll catch ya damn fingers-turn on power again, set to spin, and try motor only? See if belt is badly frayed too…..clutching at any straws here!Re: Bosch WVG30461GB won’t lock and start
Hazzard a guess and considering the money that is involved do not rely on what follows. What follows is based on Bosch washer dryer WVG30461GB/01, you did not say which version ( 01 ) you have.
Suspect the fault lies with the rear r/h/side pcboard as looking from the rear of the machine which is the motor module and ( since your motor is one of those induction brushless motors ) I`d have a look there next. If you see any blown tracks tread very carefully as something else may well have caused it and with luck it`ll be your old door lock that shorted it out, there again you might get unlucky and see nothing but it could still be that board BUT then it might not be!. That pcb list price is £156.35. If you buy that or any other pcb and it blows your £156.35 down and you will not get your money back from your supplier. If you buy a pcb and fit the thing and it does not cure the fault …..ditto!
If you end up pulling your hair out pay and call out Bosch and let them sort it out, they can afford the losses if they goof up you and a one man and his van repairer cannot, the latter most certainly would not. One other possibility is a slight earth fault from the tumble dryer or / and wash elements and so it back feeds and messes temporarily the pcb/s try, if you haven`t already, disconnecting the wires and retrying; doubt you`ll have a megger tester to test the elements for any earth leakage. Welcome to the 21st Century everyone: an ever increasing amount of this mid to upper range stuff is, basically, not very reliable ( I`m being as polite as possible! ) contrary to popular belief and hype based on Bosch machines, for example, of the past where many were fairly simple but well made and had predictable and well known ocassional faults.Re: Bosch Classixx 6 Vario Perfect won’t start
Motor brushes part number 00616505 list price genuine £22.51. I advize you if the brushes are worn out to replace with these genuine ones rather than pattern stuff.
To remove the motor you`ll need a 10mm socket, remove the 2 long self tapping screws having removed the back panel t20 torx screw. Lean the machine to a wall to the front, then remove the motor and earth wire and oranged wired terminal block. You`ll need a flat bladed screw driver to lever the motor off its tank lugs. Becareful the motor is heavy! You can usually tell if the motor brushes are worn out by just looking at the commutator ( the part of the armature with the segments – will look matt instead of shinney ). Remove each brush to check – when new each one of two is new the carbon bit should be about 2 inches long, when worn out they are 1/4 of an inch. Replace with new brushes
making sure you put each one the right way round so you do NOT hear any clicking noise when you rotate the armature / spindle around.Re: Beko Washing Machine Handle Snapped Off
Lawrence and Martin. Nice idea but neither ever seem to work for me because of where the handle always breaks and also the plastic moulding shape of the door makes it impossible to get at the remains of the handle in anycase. Have you both actually done one of these on this specific model or is it just p*ss take time on “The Shambles” again?
