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Re: Beko Washing Machine Handle Snapped Off
The only way to do this, and it is not easy, is POWER OFF, lid off, push back the whole tank backwards, then look down to the door`s interlock ( brick red/black component ) with a torch. Get a small flat bladed screwdriver and to the left n/ end of the interlock you will just see the the door`s stricker- the metal bit- you have to then flip the metal stricker to the left and the door will then open. Not that easy to do because of the door locks plastic moulding. door handle is part number 2821580100 think that one is light grey one? If you look closely the design of the new handle is very slightly different to the original.
To replace the actual handle to the door. With a marker pen mark the door outer glass to the frame and the glass itself to the inner frame as reference points. Take off the door from the machine, 2 screws, place on a mat, then take out all the door screws and then slide a small flat screwdriver to gently prise the 2 halves of the door frame apart. Fit your new door handle making sure you fit everything the right way round. To reassemble you`ll need a piece of thin electrical wire as a pull wire to pull the handle spring at the same time you push that area of the frame halves together otherwise the handle will have no spring feel to it-impossible to put this into words. It is not very easy to do. Make sure the handle spring is set right and has “feel” and that the door stricker moves with tension. Refit the door to the machine.
Pitfalls: the door lock is seized and you cannot flip the the stricker. Other than using a junior hack saw to cut through the interlock NEAR the stricker to the right and then breaking it…..call an engineer out from this point things get a bit more difficult DO NOT PRISE THE DOOR IN DESPERATION!.Re: Some Baumatic prices
Too right. Bloody crazy lot Partmaster. Came across a door seal for a White Knight washing machine listed at £100. Its for a Vestel for Godsake! These are less than 22 quid retail. Are the British public being ripped off? Of course they are unless they know where to go and where to look, and who will be repairing their machine without fleecing them.
I`ll give you a non appliance example. Near where I live in the Chiltern Hills where most Sunday pub lunches are £12 to £18 and they vary from basic and small portions to small arty farty portions of grub. Just been today to The Carriers Arms at Watlington smack at the foot hills of the Chilterns. Had a lovely large pork dinner, proper veggies, proper off the bone pork for £6.95, t`other half had the same but a smaller dinner at £4.95. Fantastic quality, at a fantastic price. A great, clean, friendly but rough around the edges kind of pub; not up its own bottom with great beer choices too, its a free house.
And the point is I will go back a fourth time because I feel I have not been fleeced and I like the bar staff and punters. Back to appliances. If I bought a 100 quid door seal then found out it was 20 quid elsewhere I`d feel really p*ssed off and there is nothing worse than me feeling or anyone else feeling fleeced; corporate idiots Partmaster they really are the limit!Re: Bosch Washing Machine Baffling Fault
” stagnant” is that with a smell of dirty water or no smell with just a colour change meaning stagnant water looking?
Since you live in a communal block. 1) ask neighbours if anyone uses their own appliances during the night. 2) how is the machine`s outlet drain pipe plumbed out? Is it to an under the sink connecter nozzel or is it down a stand pipe and only down about 4″. If the pipe is down a stand pipe and only 4″ you can eliminate any back flow because it would flood the kitchen (?) first which you do not mention so presume that doesn`t happen. If plumbed out to an under the sink nozzle you still have that as a possibility of a back feed via someone else above you ( if that is the case? ) or even next to you or even below you is using their machine = that the block`s shared usually external standpipe is part blocked up.What is much more likely is: either copper staining, or as already mentioned, iron deposits.Point to look for is at the washing machine`s end of the INLET hose there is a valve filter if this is semi blocked up with brown coloured flakey deposits you have rust in the mains water pipe which would give you a brown stagnant LOOKING but not usually smelling watery deposit in the drum. Is the door seal discoloured or does it look normal grey self.
I had this issue 27 years ago in a block of flats and it created a bloody big row with lots of physical yelling from both sides ( the machine was an Ariston ) and Indesit being blamed for something they had no control over…..however! In the end this is what was done: that machine was plumbed out in to an under sink nozzle which, it was agreed, that this nozzle should be water tight blanked off and the machine not to be used. Both the inlet pipes were left switched on. The problem continued over a week! So it wasn`t anything to do with the outlet hose or back feeding. What it was in this case was: there were no signs of bits of flakey brown deposits in the inlet valves filter BUT there was a fair amount of large pieces of rust deposits at the bottom of the inlet hoses at their lowest point. Obviously the specific gravity of iron is heavier than water ( taken as 1 ) and what was happening was every time the machine filled the rust deposits were pushed up to the valve and when the valve shut off because the machine was now not in use the rusty bits dropped through the water back to their lowest point and sat there rusting more! Therefore the machine filled up BECAUSE the valve, cold one, had failed allowing the machine to fill up very slowly / seep with tainted water.
Re: doors and water jets
“Should also mention, the production date of this appliance was only April 2015, is this appliance not still under warranty?”
Trouble is though the door ( a black door ) was closed with a garmet trapped between it and the door glass and pulled but didn`t split the door seal`s lip. Luckily it is not leaking too badly because of the low water level even on rinses. Won`t be covered by warranty.
2nd point as to who said it was obsolete I do not want to reply because it will embarass him and he`s an otherwise good bloke: no cop out or lies on my part, we`ll drop that question..4mysamsung do not have the part in stock, WOW discounts neither ( more or less all part of Connect ) Samsung uk refered me back to 4mysamsung one of the main spares dealers for uk, order for a new door seal with between a 14 to 28 day wait. If you type in the model number on google it is hardly mentioned other than for sales of new machines No spares seem to be listed for that model probably because it is so new.
Re: doors and water jets
Even worse there isn`t a replacement seal in the country!! ( terrible parts backup ) OK there doesn`t appear to be one in the country…..are you happier with that? That is what the Samsung main suppliers told me and Samsung uk. Special order part / nil stock listed. Model WD90J7400GW/EU s/n oefa5adg400037y, part number DC64-03175A. Someone told me that it was obsolete after I wrote this little piece and if so I`m surprised Samsung didn`t tell me first so if you can tell me different we`ll all be happy and so will the owner.
“water jets themselves are not the problem its the design of the jet nozzle had more not blocked than blocked and never had a pump fail because of it (yet).”
Hardly a glowing endorsement is it? I`ve had loads block up but not necessarily cause a problem but it might have, perhaps would have given the time..
“Never had a pump or pcb fail because of this either”.
Had 4 over the years. 1 lg but luckily it only zapped the pump windings. 3 others took out the pump and pcb triac as well, all Zanussis / Elux. I never said there were hundreds/dozens that do it or have done it I merely state that in my opinion it is not a clever idea. Just a point based on my own experience in my hard water area. Your of course all welcome to your points of experience too.
Re: Bosch Logixx 8 WAS28460GB
“something else is drawing to much current to make the chip run hot and shut down”
I`ve thought about your problem My answer its a long shot, fairly fanciful on the face of it and is just a possibility. Sometimes you can get a fairly rare fault on this stuff where on spin the heating element comes on without any water in the machine ( I`ve seen this myself on 2 occassions ) i.e. in other words, the machine spins but there is a direct live and neutral fault to the heater. Under normal circumstances the heater glows red for about 4 seconds before the heater`s internal fuse pops at 250volts = no more heat ever but it could be possible for only 100 volts to reach the heater meaning it could still work / draw a current right through the whole wash/rinse/spin cycle without taking its internal fuse out and without any suspicion anything is amiss other than the actual going dead problem. This would give you the pcb problem you describe. The pcb is at fault in combination between 2 relays and affecting the power chip. To prove a point you would have to remove the back off the machine get 2 croc clips and a multimeter one wire on each heater terminal put it on spin and see what happens and if anything at least 4 times/cycles to prove it, having first tested the heater for it not being open circuit. Should the heater in fact be open circuit remove it and if any lime appears burnt and black that is whats has been going on, you just caught it after the event. looks like a new pcb if this indeed is happening.Re: Best Washing Machine & Tumble Dryer for < £500 each
Yet more insight!
I installed ( admittedly it was a washer dryer ), a Siemens 2 months ago and it was made in ………………………..”A triumph of post revolutionary Maoist China”. Maybe some of the dryers and washing machines will be as per many Samsung are come to think about it.Re: Help please AEG Lavatherm 56840L >Expensive/failed early
Ref AEG t/dryer
a) Its a common problem.
Yesb) Its probably only one component on the pcb that fails.
Sometimes 2Am i asking too much to get 7 years out of such a machine?
In a `new and improved` 21st Century where everything fails prematurely I`m not at all surprised, you might even be lucky at 7 years!!.AEG (Electrolux in disguise) ? Junk.
Yes, as is Zanussi too and yes.PS Please can anyone recommend a decent machine that`s uncomplicated and that will last a reasonable time ?
As strange as it may seem the only tumble dryer that is simple with almost no electronics is a White knight vented tumble dryer circ £150, spares should you need them are reasonable should you know the right suppliers, the 2inch by 2 inch pcb seldom fails and is cheap enough. Bosch used to use this make rebadged ( and were charging about 40{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} more for the spares too! ). Everything else in my experience is either complicated, horrendously complicated, expensive or a mixture of all 3 in various measures e.g those dreadful heat pump tumble dryers. Pcb failure on appliances is pretty common across the board as are electronic sensor problems it is just more common on some than on others, some Bosch models suffer from pcb failure and sensor faults the pcb can be £260 for a tumble dryer, the front sensor only comes with the front drum support, over 110 quid, I ask you, it`s pathetic and a rip off. Miele mechanically are very good electronically complex and very expensive with it and even worse when they fail too.
I can`t pin point any other brand that I would recommend other than a simple white knight- the basic design is 40 years old, some I work on are over 20 years old. Are they energy inefficient by modern standards of delusions? Probably yes…..so what and who cares so long as it lasts, the of extra power used is peanuts over a year. This industry, as well as practically all others, bases nearly everything on consumer £ savings because it is etched and force feed to an eager public i.e. something for nothing is always appealing, but most of time it is a tissue of lies or at best based on manipulated data based on half truths, its just like the diamond trade; it`s all common knowledge if you look for it. Wish I could be a bit more up-beat, sorry!Re: Hot Point Fridge Freezer FFM70A unable to run compressor
Via your picture that white cylindrical shaped thing is a 4uf capactor (?), they are cheap at about 5 quid and it COULD BE that that is the problem. Under the compressors black plastic cover, if you can unclip it, there is not, from memory, a relay in the old sense of the word as such, as it has ptc starting. There were 2 compessors used as far as known: one is a danfoss and the other is an Embraco make ( more expensive ptc part and probably a near 50 quid worth of fleecing ). The ptcs are different. If you are lucky the capactor might repair it if unlucky the ptc will fix it, if really suffering horrendously from bad luck the compressor is nuked. I`d be trying that capacitor first. Power off before tatting about with it is of course a must.
Re: AEG LAVAMAT 86720 fault C3
Not pumping the water out hence C3 f/code? Buzzing or humming too? The pump`s probably seized = either worn out or something has jammed it. Bale the machine out via the door and then investigate via the machine`s pump filter if you find nothing jamming the pump feel how much side shake the impellor ( the propeller, the bit that shifts the water ) has any loose movement and its worn out. From memory those machines have a base fitted making life harder to replace the pump should it be so.To get at the pump to replace it access is via the front panel which can be removed, use decent screw drivers.. The pump is still available both as a pattern or genuine around £30 something and £60 something respectfully..If you need parts everything is based on the 91400???/?? pnc or product code as read off the label as there could be 10 different versions of a L86720.
Re: Samsung WF70F5E2W4W Washer problem
There`s 2 versions one ends with EU other one EE. EU more common.EE I`ve never seen.
Most likely it`ll be the motor brushes worn out. Motor is a Ceset lookalike so if ,as is usual with this kind of stuff, motor brushes aren`t listed as a separate part and the motor brushes are the culprit and worn out a pair of ceset brushes should sort it out. However nothing is easy in this old game because there are 2 main types that look identical: one brush angle is cut to the left and one is cut to the right if looking with the brush wire terminal pointing downwards so take note of that point.Re: Logik L612WM13 – loud drum
From what Zanussi bearing kit? Size of oil seal please. Do you mean the Zanussi `small bearing kit` thought that was 6204 6205 same as Hotpoint kit for WM / 95 series. Some Logiks are Turkish but most are Chinese.
Yes, this model is Chinese and made by Midea. Note on original question: other than Partmaster Connect where you will be well hammered on the price of parts ( but the pictures are useful to you ) and where you can`t buy just the bearings/oil seal ( and tech information is purposely scant ) only the expensive rear half tank but you could try E-bay. There`s several firms that buy up bankrupt stock ( a domestic appliance growth industry! ) try estockagility or selectstock1 they often have cheap clearance parts or just type in `Logik washing machine spares` and see what comes up. However, do not expect to necessarily find what u want under Logik you might have to try under Haier, I think Haier and Midea share a great deal of parts but there`s no official X referencing ( there is bound to be somewhere but not in English ). Be careful with the rear half tanks as the Turkish Bush and mostly Chinese Haier and Logik ones look similar but are not the same. So long as the drum and shaft has not been battered and thrashed then trashed to hell, which is where most folks mess up, 2 of the 3 most common bearing sizes on planet earth should cost you well less than 6 quid each and the oil seal, which will have its sizes marked on the seal as per the bearings, less than 5 quid. Oil seal size could be 35x56x10/11.5 part number 0020300441 BUT check yours first before ordering. Check your bearing sizes too they might be 6204 and 6205 rather than 6206 and 6205 ( which are seen on Turkish machines such as some F and A series Bush models ) . Sorry I can`t be more specific, info on this stuff is very confusing. Well worth having a go to fix it.
