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Viewing 15 posts - 11,686 through 11,700 (of 12,518 total)
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  • in reply to: Replacement Refrigerator Part (Freezer door catch) #114764
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    `

    hi richard

    this sounds as though its a hygena appliance purchased from MFI..

    you could try there for a catch and spring, i think its the spring that breaks usually.

    take the numbers of the label and be sure to not “dislex” the alpha numerics ok

    regards

    kevin

    in reply to: Replacement Refrigerator Part (Freezer door catch) #114763
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    Re: Replacement Refrigerator Part (Freezer door catch)

    Martin

    It reads: AMP6121

    Is this enough detail?

    Richard

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    Hmmmm.. cant seem to edit my last post
    anyhow on the IWMS there are THREE pipes on the right and TWO on the left, so five in total.
    The”water inlet” on the inside is the condensed vent – sorry for the miss-infomation.

    ian
    ian dot laidlaw at ntlworld dot com

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    Re: Zanussi Dishwasher DWS909. Intermittent, leaks, fails fi

    I hope this makes sense: very non technical and gleaned from my repair endeavours! 🙂

    with regard to the side panel ‘caught’ at the bottom. There are two more screws that you have to remove. To get to these, you need to remove ‘kick panel’ that is below the door – to get to the screws for this open the door and look at the ‘kick panel’ you will see two screws(one on the left and one on the right) remove these and remove the ‘kick panel’ then you will see the last two screws for the right side panel. (this is also the way to get the LH panel off as well)

    The ‘kick panel’ is the plastic facia at the bottom of the door that doesn’t move when the door is opened.

    Now you have the panel off, to remove the IWMS there are three (i think) screws (one topleft and two bottom middle) you also need to unscrew the water inlet from inside the DW. pop off the middle section (yellow on mine) and unscrew the spider.
    There are 4 pipes that have spring clips that need to be undone to get the IWMS off. to get to one set you locate the water inlet pipe and (after turning off the water!) undo the coupling ..now where that pipe is there is one screw to the left, remove that now you can remove that small rectangle panel, now remove the 4 screws that you see and remove that panel – now you can get to two of those spring clips!!
    The other ones – trace the pipe back to the pump and remove the clip from that end of the pipe (the smaller pipe has enough slack to undo from the IWMS once the IWMS is free)

    Ian

    in reply to: Diplomat 8234 – questions and a specialist please #114567
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    Re: Diplomat 8234 – questions and a specialist please

    Dear Kwatt,

    Thanks for your prompt reply. Could you let me know where you’ll poste the error messages.

    Do you think it’s worthwhile me getting hold of a circuit board and replacing it and seeing what happens? (That’s not too hard a job).

    And where do I find a local specialist? No one’s replied to the message offering their services (!)

    Many thanks,

    Matthew

    in reply to: broken whirlpool oven door #114627
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    is it possible to buy a replacement door,complete? or would a door from another model fit? do you kow a company who might be able to assist?
    many thanks rob

    in reply to: Checking hotplate temperature #114668
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    Re: Checking hotplate temperature

    For less than the cost of the tester you could have replaced both hotplates and the control switches….and saved on the second and subsequent visits. This eliminates the hotplates and puts the owness back to the customer, as kwatt says an element usually works or not, where there is doubt this removes it..

    kevin

    in reply to: Diplomat ADP 8322 #114657
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    Cheers Dave…..

    in reply to: Diplomat ADP 8322 #114655
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    Re: Diplomat ADP 8322

    Cheers Dave – a top man indeed!

    Guess that clears up where the kitchen was from!! What is the dishwasher underneath the covers then? Any ideas?

    in reply to: Heat sheets. between cooker and hob? #114615
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    Re: Heat sheets. between cooker and hob?

    I have an AEG B9971-4fan assisted oven , under a Smeg Se 2640TE ceramic hob.
    i posted earlier about the error on the hob.
    we have spoken to AEG and they recommended this ‘heat insulation sheet’
    Suggesting we lay it between the oven and hob!?
    but not saying where to get one!
    If the error on the hob is ‘overheat’. is that a common problem with hobs above ‘built under’ ovens. if so how do you guys get over it?
    i have not quite lost the plot with this problem……..yet.
    As i am quite prepared to work with all of the relevant suppliers to sort it out.
    i would also like to do my research first, just so i am prepared for any eventuality.
    (Also i’m not sure how long i can keep the lid on my wife.)
    Many Thanks Clive uk.
    PS. I am a copier engineer, and use the various copier forums on the net.
    May i just say how friendly you all are here.
    Trust me, its not like this on those forums.
    once again Thanks. Clive Uk

    in reply to: Indesit C239NF Frost Free F/F #114604
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    Re: Indesit C239NF Frost Free F/F

    Manually turn the defrost timer to defrost and check that the defrost element ..heats. The defrost sequence is around 20 mins in a working enviroment (-18) so within 20 mins it should advance off defrost and restart the compressor etc…negating a return trip several hours later.

    Most f/f ice build ups are due to poor removal of water during the defrost period, check that the exit path for defrosted water is not blocked and that the defrost heater has not bent away from its intended route.

    Although the defrost sequence is regulated to (approx)20 mins the sensor will switch off the element upon sensing the temperature rise with a toc as a safety device.
    The only other explanation for ice build up would be a system fault…and its not easy to detect using temp readings.

    Is this R600 and how old is the appliance..?

    kevin

    in reply to: Diplomat ADP 8132 Dishwasher #114529
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    Re: Diplomat ADP 8132 Dishwasher

    Thanks Dave had already tried that. Since posting the original query I have tried a reset by power off power on press programme button 4 times inside 3secs power off power back on. After doing this it went the soak cycle and went through programme completely. Where has previously been the super progaramme light had been flashing with the other 4 off it is now the soak programme light flashing steadily with the other 4 off.

    in reply to: Diplomat Oven Repair #113623
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    Re: Diplomat Oven Repair

    Guys,

    Thanks for this (Hubby will replace it when he gets home from work) I have actually found a place in Northants that can supply me one for £19.99 (not too bad) as I dont fancy cooking another roast dinner under the grill!!

    However, on another note, I have a Bosch washing machine its a Classixx 1200, we brought it in Oct last year and since then the final spin has become much louder that it originally was and it doesnt seem to wash, spin aswell as it did.

    Any ideas???

    in reply to: Diplomat Oven Repair #113620
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    Re: Diplomat Oven Repair

    Dave,

    Firstly I would like to apologise, (I was led to belive that the site was actually the Hygena one, by my Husband – yes death will b close when he returns from work!!!!!)

    The actual website is : – http://www.spares2go.co.uk/browse/HYGENA/m284.htm

    If you click on the model then follow instuctions it comes up as £12.90 + £3.90 p+p


    Am I correct in thinking it may b a con???

    in reply to: Smeg DWI 710 Wash-cycle incomplete #114497
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    Re: Smeg DWI 710 Wash-cycle incomplete

    Hi Dave

    We don’t get any error codes from the lights.

    Since the dishwasher empties (eg if you hold the program key to force to end of cycle or put it on a rinse cycle instead which always works) I assume the pipes are clear enough. Would a partial blockage cause this sort of problem though? (I have cleaned filters and sump components)

    Thanks
    Nik

Viewing 15 posts - 11,686 through 11,700 (of 12,518 total)