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andy2
ParticipantRe: Indesit w123suk – controller thoughts?
Hi
When the control knob clicks round you should see one of the lights flashing. It will flash a number of times then pause for about ten secs then do another group of flashes.
Count the number of flashes in the group as this signifies an error code and may be a clue as to the problem
Andy
andy2
ParticipantRe: Can Hotpoint get any worse
Nice lady to repairman – ‘I hate Candy, used to have a Candy, nothing but trouble’
Repairman to nice lady – ‘Would it interest madam to know that you have a Candy washing machine now’
Nice lady to repairman – No I hav’nt, my machines a Hoover’!
Repairman to nice lady – Sorry but it’s a Candy with a Hoover badge’
Nice lady to repairman – If I had known that I would never have bought it’!
No matter how you look at it this lady was decieved.
The quality of the product is irrelevent, she might be getting something better or worse but this does not change the fact that she was deceived.
I am not saying that these companies should not be allowed to use these aquired brand names but that the public should be fully informed about the product that they are buying. I don’t think this is too much to ask.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Indesit Washer / dryer fault – maybe logic?
Sounds like classic symptoms for worn carbon brushes on these machines (or other open circuit motor / wiring fault) – as this gives no error code on the display.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Help! My Service 1100rpm washer/drier has died
Hi Sloshy2004
If the electric supply to your washer is ok then the fault could be in several different areas ranging from a wire off to a faulty electronic module. Without a degree of expertise to be able to trace through the various circuits you are going to be struggling.
Your original fault probably is related but it may be a 2nd unrelated fault.
Consider getting some help if you can on this.
:zap: If you do have a look yourself make sure you remove the appliance plug BEFORE doing anything else. :zap:
Regards – Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: masterpart
I used to use Homespare and gradually stopped getting spares because of the poor quality, in the end I was only buying door seals so I dropped them completely.
This was about fifteen years ago so the quality might have improved by now.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Can Hotpoint get any worse
Goatboy you are spot on about the deception.
Manufacturers should not be allowed by law to continue to use brand names that they have aquired without making it clear to the consumer that they are not buying what they think they are buying. IMO, the only reason that they are able continue this practice is because these multi-national companies are so powerful that they have considerable influence on government policies (ie. corruption).
If you or I pulled a stunt like this we would be down the Trading standards / advertising authorities office so quick our feet would’nt touch the ground – so whats the difference?
Andy 😥
andy2
ParticipantRe: Appliance Specification
Sorry about this but I have a bit more to add.
The type of seal using the stainless washer which I think might be what Chris refered to as a V wiper seal was an attempt by the designer to marry the good features of the oil seal and the carbon face seal and eliminate the bad. The problem with this design in my opinion was (1) Cost due to complexity (2) The pressure between the seal and its mating surface was highly dependant on the tolerance and fit of the machined parts due to the lack of a spring to ensure a firm contact.
Most manufacturers seem to have reverted to using an oil seal probably due to cost (cheap and low assy costs). It does have one other advantage over the other designs in that it only has two potential leakage points as opposed to three on the others. All in all i think that oil seals are OK. Apart from the wear the other main problem is lubrication. In an engine for instance they recieve adequate lubrication from they oil that they retain. Not so in a w/m where the only lubrication is the water and detergent. This has been helped a little by the use of a double lip seal which is able to retain a small amount of grease between the lips (for as long as it lasts).
I think the reason why some machines that use oil seals have much better bearing life than others is down to better machining, tighter tolerances and better quality control during manufacture and assy. Because this results in a much tighter fit, seal wear is reduced.
To back up my point about bearing failure – how many rear bearings fail as opposed to front even though they are usually smaller. Its always down to water ingress.
IMHO
I promise to shut up now – honest!
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Appliance Specification
Chris – that is what I wanted to know, but I have to disagree with Martin on this one.
Most, if not all tub bearing failure on washing machines is due to seal failure or wear. The type and size of sealed bearings on most washing machines would usually outlive the other componants if there was no exposure to water.
Also the type of seal is very important. For instance an oil type seal as used in pre WMA Hotpoint usually fails due to premature wear of the seal lip/s. This is due to the shaft running eccentricly in relation to the seal due to play between the shaft and bearing inner. This is why it is crucial in this type of light transition fit to secure the shaft to the inner with a bearing shaft sealant.
Carbon face seals on the other hand are very tolerant to this type of movement but the weakness of these is the detachment of the carbon face from the rubber seal.
The WMA seal as we all know was a disaster, but look at the seal design. Nobody is sure as to whether it was supposed to mate with the shaft, shoulder or both. Have you ever seen anything like this used on a washer before because I hav’nt. Even the Philips or creda that used a small rubber seal mating with a polished stainless washer had a defined sealing point.
Yes it does matter that the seals mate properly with counterfaces etc but if the seal is not up to the job then you will get premature bearing failure.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Appliance Specification
Hi – I have a couple of questions re: the spec
Is the drum support / spider replaceable – if yes are the bolts easily removed.
re: the tub bearing assy do you know what type of seal is used as i think this is more important than the bearing size issue.
Is the PCB a single unit behind the facia (WMA) or with a seperate facia module.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Welcome To A New Way Forward
Speaking as one of the older generation I think the whole concept of project X is
ABSOLUTLY SUPERB!
I was just talking to the little wifey the other day about the internet and how it has a massive potential to change things for the ‘little people’.
A site like UKWG allows people with a common cause or interest that are physically seperated to be able to communicate and act as a corporate entity.
This only used to be possible in the past by organising street demonstrations and parliamentry lobbies. Now you can sit in your own home and with others have a voice that has power to change things through online petitions etc.
Gone are the days when a petition involved a few faithful’s trudging for hours, door to door to gain a thousand signatures. Now an online petition has the potential to obtain millions of signatures in a very short time just by advertising the web site and giving people the opportunity to voice their opinion.
I wonder if the ‘powers that be’ have an appreciation of the potential power of the beast that has been released.
Project X is a small poke in the eye for the multi-nationals that are so financially powerful that they up to now have dictated the terms. But maybe this in time can be changed through efforts like this!
Congratulations to all you guys that dreamed this up and put the hard work in. It’s one thing to have an idea or a vision – but bringing it to reality is another matter, and you seem to have achieved that!
Now it’s up to the ‘repairmen’ to become good ‘salesmen’ too, to get this up and running.
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Zanussi FLE1015W module configuration
Tried reconfiguring the repaired module but it would’nt have it. So bought a new module (ouch!). Fits it on the machine and it would’nt even set to diagnostic mode – so it looks like a control module problem too.
Tries in my ‘tester’ control module and machine now fires up but throws up an error – electronic pressure s/w defective.
Fits another p.s/w and machines working OK.
So the motor fault suceeded in wiping out the main module, control module and p.s/w too.
Electronic control solutions – don’t you just love em!
Andy 😥
andy2
ParticipantRe: Smelly Washers
OK so the smell problem is caused by the activity of bacteria which is what i have always told my customers – I recomend a couple of hot washes with bleach diluted as per the instructions to kill off the bacteria. And then another hot wash (no load) using detergent to remove the loose debris and bleach deposits. Bleach is also a good cleaning agent so it helps removes the gunge that harbour the bacteria.
I have always considered this to be a logical remedy, I know that it can have some adverse affect on the m/c but if done only when necessary it has not up to now caused any problems.
If as you say the prime reason for this problem is detergents without a bleach additive, then using bleach to remove an existing problem seems to make sense.
Are you saying that the use of a good quality detergent has the same effect ie. by removing the deposits that harbour the bacteria you remove the cause of the smell.
Personally i think this is less of a problem than it used to be on the machines that had an alloy backplate. If you remember often these became covered in a horrible jelly like substance and the smell used to be virtually impossible to remove except by having them shotblasted!
Obviously the low temperatures used nowadays must also contribute to the problem as hot washes will kill many of the bacteria anyway. I bet granny who always does a boil wash does’nt have this problem!
How do we define a good quality detergent. Is it one that contains bleach?
Andy 🙂
andy2
ParticipantRe: Smelly Washers
kwatt wrote:Which is why I’ll let some of the guys that have had the detergent training explain as they all should now know why it happens and how to solve it as it is a bit more involved. 😉
Anyway, prevention is better than cure.
K.
OK – so what is the theory behind using a detergent?
Also while we are the subject, what do you think is the cause of the light brown gunge that coats the inside of some tubs (usually Hotpoints) when you open them up for a bearing job. I have had machines where this is so thick that it virtually fills the gap between the drum and the tub. Whereas others are squeeky clean inside.
I have never been able to establish a common factor to explain this. It does not seem to be dependant on area, degree of customer hygene, powder / liquid etc.
I did used to suspect fabric conditioner but I have been to machines that have the gunge but the owner does not use it?
Andy
andy2
ParticipantRe: Whats the most annoying thing customers do?
Went to do a Hotpoint WM bearing job yesterday, noticed a nick in the door seal lip. I told her her cat had been having a chew (which they do if silly people leave the door open) 🙄
‘Does it leak?’ I asked her, ‘No’ she replied
‘Are you absolutely sure’? – ‘Certain’ she said.
Do I even need to tell you the rest of the tale?
Does the job – gets the machine all cleaned up and back in position – job sorted – will be back just in time to take the little wifey to her Dr’s appointment
Fills her up (the machine not the wifey).
‘Oh dear me!’ I exclaimed as a large puddle formed on the floor ‘it’s leaking down the front, it must be that nick in the door seal that you said did’nt leak’.
‘Now I will have to take it all to pieces again to put a new seal on’ – but I will come back tomorrow to do that. ( “Thinks” – because if I don’t go now I will be up on a murder charge)
Little did she realise how near she had come to having my lump hammer embedded in her cranium.
Andy 👿
andy2
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