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From what you say it could be the button problem “start” on the panel/facia Siemens part 00704604 £130.16. That would be for the complete facia panel as the button/s cannot be bought as separate individual items. Failing that the touch sensor operating module (part 00708751) a less than cheery £178.64 because that comes as a complete pcboard.
What can happen is the start button gets gummed-up so it is a case of dismantling and separating the module from the facia and cleaning the both areas without damaging or losing any of the sensor springs in the process so be warned. What I would try first is to spray a very small amount of contact cleaner between the sides of the button and the button`s facia`s hole and see if that works first before delving into dismantling the parts or simply giving the button top a good clean is a better simplier start and see if anything improves. Do the simple stuff first that will not cause you money or potential grief.Great, looks as though you fixed the thing. These pcb`s commonly fail after X years and at 178 quid (they`re ridiculously priced – a Bosch hold your head down in shame moment – like to see that happen !) listed part price it is a frighteningly expensive experience and certainly no joke when this happens.
All the best.To add
Bearings and oil seal fits Kenwood K10W7D18 washer dryer..
6306-2RZ (or ZZ)
6307-2RZ (or ZZ)
seal – 47x88x10/12Nothing like the motor that is in the video but then that was a guess based on no information being available at the time other than your model number which yielded absolutely zippo from the normal places. With a picture via this Fixpart spares dealer of the correct motor (fixpart had intially been off line for ages) and no motor references to your model number seemingly elsewhere at the time, your picture just confirms that I doubt that is the problem least from this centrifugal switch problem because it appears you haven`t got that BUT in the description of the motor it does mention the word “module” giving the impression that the white plastic motor terminal box could be something more than what it first seems, in other words I think that terminal block might not just be a terminal block directly to the stator coils – you`d have to dismantle the motor further to check that – because It could be the equiv of a hall sensor = a module term = hall sensor failure famed on LG and Samsung washing machines can give the symptoms you have but there is no info available least to me other than what has been mentioned for your Samsung under the motor discription i.e. the word “module” which it would be. Just a thought that might be the case, impossible to know that given the low amount of info and zero experience on your t/dryer. If that is the case then we might be on the right tracks. (perhaps they had loads of previous problems with the mechanical switch and re-engineered the later models to work in a different way, but that is impossible to know unless you work for Samsung)
Another component that would could cause this is a motor relay on the pcboard or its soldering and so perhaps that is where the problem really lies i.e. at the other end i.e. the pcb. All the Samsung stuff I have ever worked on, before I retired last year, which were mostly washing machines, the components are potted in a jelly resin making visually ID of duff offending components but especially the soldering on the reverse of the board a major challenge if not impossible without risk of a disaster cutting the plastic away – not made to be repaired just to be replaced – but replacing that pcb is one expensive gamble and is the last thing you would normally change. Presume your pcb/s are potted too.
And yes Fixpart parts are not cheap but least we got a description of the part in some terms which was the point and you tracked down a replacement motor. If you do buy a new motor for 80 quid to try that will of course be your desicion because that might not cure the problem but then on the other hand, it might. But then something has to be tried!
If the replacement motor does cure the fault then of course great! If it does no such thing I will admit defeat being out of my experience.“bad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear half” – I wrote: “loads of parts for Midea just look them up as logik, workshop manual often listed on partmaster.”
My correction to Electrofix seems that he is now spot on. At one time, not long ago, most logiks had a Service manual listed on Partmaster. Whilst one or two I have now looked for are still listed but most, it would seem, have now disappeared off their website. This was obviously an oversight by Partmaster as that was all useful and therefore that is why the vast majority have now disappeared!Well looks like a success so that is great news.
All academic now `cause you fixed it, but you would have noticed that if the front bearing was to get thrashed into total trash (shrapnel mode!) that outer race is near impossible to knock out due to there not being anything exposed to whack against to knock the blighter out. A bit of a poor design but no different to many thousands of models of any makes out there, that is why, like you did, is to nip it in the bud ASAP before all that happens. Oh and thanks for tell us the bearing sizes and confirming the oil seal size; another piece of info to add to the list.
Cheers!Fixpart spares is now back on line. Google fixpart and see that the motor mentions module in its description (though the whole thing is still somewhat unclear ) maybe I `ve been on the wrong track there again maybe not.
Well, when you took the machine to pieces did the motor have a black plastic terminal block with the wires in a line? -= the centrifugal switch. If so that is a motor switch box and contains cam and switches and this is the area they apparently screw up by the switch contacts getting stuck together or/ and the plastic moulding burns internally = motor stops = fault code.
Throwing money at it given the price of the parts is not a good idea: “assuming a part I buy and fit doesn’t fix the problem, could that part be returned – motor, pcb etc?” Doubt they would take stuff back based on trial and error as they are in business and not part libraries – I do not know of any company would do that – and certainly not pcboards hence guessing not a good idea! Would be a good idea to have taken a photo of the motor`s terminal block so at least we could either discount that or not.“Bearings out. The inner needed soaking in wd 40 a little.
Visible water damage with rusted ball bearings! Only on the inner Bearing. Outer looked and felt perfect.
Looks like water damage and wore down.
Shaft looks good luckily.
We’ll see once I get the new bearings in”.Yes, typically the way they all fail not because the bearings are mechanically naffly made but due to the obvious: water gets through the oil seal /shaft as the seal running face/lip gets worn 9 out of 10 due to no grease so the running lip gets friction worn prematurely – Kenwood is not alone so make sure you do grease is good advise.
NSK, KOYO and NBR take your pick as all 3 are ok and the last 2 are Japanese, NSK`s head office is in Japan too presume made there..
If the spider`s oil seal hub needs cleaning DO NOT USE EMERY CLOTH OR SANDPAPER just use a soft damp cloth with Jiff and dry it off before applying a bit of grease there as well as the actual oil seal.bad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear half – loads of parts for Midea just look them up as logik, workshop manual often listed on partmaster.All I have found is: you go to partmaster spares, type in the search box 444448187, hit the search, and you get it coming up as a LEC brand. Scroll down through the pages and have a look at the pictures (and in some cases the horrific costs) when you get to page 5 or 6 LEC changes to Stoves of which hardly anything is listed. So it looks like your Stoves is really a LEC badged up as a snooty Stoves product which would not surprise me! The whole point is if you recognise what you are after to cure your problem it`ll tell you the price, how long it will take to get that part which you take with a big pinch of salt and THEIR part number and in this case the old 006…. number which is the start of a Stoves number (good fun is this isn`t it?) so say the part you see on page 3 “ice cushing box” at £176.79 might be what you are after and it is apparently still available with a 6 week wait If you type in search the part number 0060818598 it comes up as a stoves ice crusher obsolete BUT also comes up as an alternative part under the LEC brand.
There you go have a look .Hi to Uruguay and S. America. Think, but I`m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure, that the oil seal is going to be a 47x88x10/12. As for the bearings no idea you`ll have to visually look as it will written on them…so something like 6307zz or 6207zz (zz = metal discs protection of the internal ball bearings or 2rs = rubber protection). With a high load capacity machine you really want to lash out on some quality bearing brands, NSK or FAG or Japanese made bearings rather than 4 quid Chinese stuff which are ok at 6kg loads but not at 10kg loads in my opinion. You really want to nip the problem in the bud otherwise as electrofix says you can nuke the drum shaft and the hub silver running ring (that is a drum complete and probably a long wait and not cheap). Make sure you lubricate the new oil seal see “Logik drum bearing change” on this very site for a rough practical guide. The main problem might be unscrewing the pulley bolt.
Could you tell us the serial number and industrial code, could well begin 44444????? Most parts are tracked down using the serial number / industrial code references rather than the model number so it can be checked. Take a picture of the machine`s label and repost – should be inside the machine on one of the side walls somewhere.
