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Try looking for instructions on how to change a Bosch heat pump on youtube. Very common that the heater part of the motor fails less so the actual motor itself – you have to buy the complete unit = heat pump part number 00651956 part listed at £132.65 Bosch website. Changing it is fiddly.
“Don’t think it’s the heater as can’t see the need to heat water you’re pumping down the drain”… Very true but modern stuff does not work that way: you can have lives going to components but the neutrals are not in play = said component will not work BUT if that component has gone to earth fuse/trip pops off so it could be the heater. The leaking motor idea was a possibility too but then if that happened the basal float switches to emergency pump out rather than taking out a trip/fuse which you do not seem to have.
According to the Miele website the motor is £418.90 but not sure whether that is motor/heater as a complete unit – but not available online to buy apparently – typical Miele closed shop! !
I would have a good look and if you have a test meter you could check the heater to see if its gone to earth or just pull the heater wires off the heater (insulate their tags as necessary too) to test.
If it looks like you have to call Miele out to get the part (and if you can get the heater part only: the last Miele dishwasher I changed the heater the part was listed at 200 quid but wasn`t your model and that was some years ago now) as far as I know they now charge 150 quid for the first hour then 100 quid for next hour so you can ratchet up a horrendous repair bill very quickly so if either of those parts you might want to quit whilst you`re still ahead of the game now if you do not want to get in the throwing money at it loop i.e. what`ll be next?
After 14.5 years that isn`t all that great for a premium product, I`ve had even Indesit dishwashers last longer with minimal hassle but that was in the very distant past. I think you`ll find every brand of dishwasher these days will be challenged (that certainly includes Bosch / Siemens and Neff, Hotpoint, Indesit AEG, Zanussi) in some way or another so not sure where that is going to leave you; sans dishwasher perhaps? Too much money gone into gimmicks instead of the basic engineering but then I suppose it is gimmicks that flog machines (e.g. internet connected) and in reality it was forever the case!There should be a number via the machine`s label mod:44444???? e.g. 444449200 which is the proper model number you look up parts and that number is for a Belling E552 but there maybe others under E552 that are a different 44444???? number with even different parts used. Let us know what number you have if different.
The selector switch (abv: swt) for the main oven based this particular 444449200 is the 3rd selector swt/knob from the right. The selector main oven swt shows 6 terminals in total of which only 4 tags are in use (by the look of it) and underneath the swt there are two metal swt contacts that have a connection bridge.
OK, so stepping back first: you replaced the m/oven element which is the usual offending part that goes pop, what is the visual condition of the old element- any splits, blow holes, doggy tripe stick crinkling of the insulation, warping, bulging hot spots or none of any of this and you, using your meter, you did test that old element to earth as set on highest Ohms setting your meter has and it showed no reading between one heater tag and the elements metal brace (the earthing point)? When replaced if there is an earthing green/yellow wire to the heater that was refited where it is supposed to go and NOT fitted to an element terminal by mistake (that happens which is why I mention it!).
The old and new control swt should have 42.029000.033 printed on it near the swt shaft. The packet`s part number 0829561000 (that is the genuine part number).
Did the old swt show signs of failure? And I take it there are no missed X`d wires when you changed to the new selector swt.
The thermostat looks as though it piggy backs on the back of the selector swt – make sure it hasn`t fallen off the new swt !
Normally you do not get thermostats going bang all things being where it is supposed to be.
So if everything is how it should be you are left with a wire fallen off another component when taking the instrument panel off / a squashed wire. or a wire from the swt or thermostat wire that is damaged in the loom, or the thermostat phial tube is touching something electrical.
Take 1 wire off the selector swt 1 at a time and test that wire to an earth point. Do the same for the the thermostat phial
You say the first turn of the knob and the m/oven light comes on so we can discount the lamp (had that happen before where the lamp unit is the cause of the problem which blows the selector swt up).Is the serial version this one: 058552110? if not what?
There was a previous version that would now be 40 years old under the term Belling format 644.
If it`s the modern version as above I would check the knob because they can split internally so, in other words, set on OFF could mean that the shaft of the switch is in fact still on an ON position hence the oven works = the knob turns but the shaft does not. This was common. If so you just need a new control knob.
If you have the 40 something old one I doubt there are any parts available……..BUT.
If you can find the serial code and it is not the one above or a split knob come back to us with the numbers – very often as a 44444?????what do you mean by going on and off all the time? Do you mean it runs and then there is a click noise then after 5 mins it restarts then runs for 15 secs then clicks off and the repeating cycle of events continues? If so that is usually a compressor relay or the alternative start PTC device or more usually the actual compressor has a fault. A normal running compressor should make no noise other than a subued motor noise. BUT what you can get is pipe work vibration which is annoying and if so you have to trace which offending 2 pipes are vibrating together and stick a piece of cardboard between the two ( that is the easiest/safest way rather than bending pipes away from each other) and since the compressor is rubber mouted these can disintergrate over time and can cause a compressor to vibrate on its X beam.
Yep discontinued with no other known replacement as fair as I can tell. Just in case: that jet black holder in the cable contains a fuse, presume you know that and have checked it?
The clicking noise is the compressor`s thermal overload cutting the power off cools down then switches on again hence “the loop of disaster”
Either the compressor starting device has failed – PTC starter or a relay OR there is something wrong with the actual piston in the compressor or its crank i.e. seized perhaps- not fixable other than a compressor change and a regas and by the time you`ve had that done you could have probably bought another 2 or 3 replacement fridges! Had a brief look for spares and the compressor appears to be discontinued anyway.
it`s under a parts warranty! Contact Hoover service. Bearing in mind Xmas is dawning soon which always throws out service organizations you will not have a great deal of time to mess about. If you bought the parts yourself i.e. the pcb and if proved, say a pump (or whatever caused the fault in the first place, and something most certainly did – could even be something like the actual motor or door lock though door lock failure on Hoovers isn`t common and further, if you buy a new pcb and it goes pop you will not get your money back – that should concentrate the mind if nothing else – you only get free parts if they or their agents come and fit the part/s) that`ll cost you more than their callout by miles and no doubt mega hassle trying different stuff or rather chasing stuff – caught in a loop getting no where. So if I was you I would check your warranty and let the fun and games begin! Presume you registered your purchase. On the machine`s rating label there will be the model number and a long number beginning with a 3 give them that as well since the pcb will have to be pre-programmed for your specific model – yep, nothing in C21st is straight forward and takes time unless that has now changed which I doubt.
Well it`s the obvious the motor is nuked and that is why. When you changed the brushes what part number did you have, and where did you get them from. Should have been 00627470 and they are listed over £70 a pair (unless you bought an alternative or pattern part which are usually ok) via Bosch UK and the plastic holders are usually black so looks like your`re fitted with a Ceset made motor ( which your motor you show i`m 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} it is). When you fitted them there wasn`t by any chance a loudish ticking noise when the drum went round because there are left and right angled brush faces with some of these type of brushes they are not all the same – – fit the wrong ones and any noises ignored this would be the outcome as the motor sparks itself into oblivion OR if not, the motor was on its last legs when the old brushes failed. Certainly nuked now! You did propely snap off the new brushes plastic locking brush tangs didn`t you?
Very much doubt you`ll be able to salvage the thing unless you get a s/hand motor off ebay since a new motor is just over 360 quid (a total rip off) and still even then one of the pcb`s might be zapped too so a real expensive caught by the short ones experience. If you can get a s/hand motor for 30 quid might be worth a gamble BUT it`ll have to be for your specific model not just any old Bosch motor – motor part number to aid you is 00145432 for your model – go to bosch uk spares and type in the model number to double check for yourself..As a quick Q – does anyone here know off-hand what the resistance of the thermistor should be at different temps for this dishwasher? Sorry I don`t know but I can say I never had one fail.Not Bosch info but view this Chinese Logik service manual – they print`em the kraut firms won`t give you the time of day: https://www.partmaster.co.uk/logik/dishwasher/ldw45s12/catalogue.pl?shop=logik&path=400241&model_ref=1373773&illustration_ref=2245843
on pages 18 and 19
The heater unit part number is 00491756 seemed to remember they were 89 quid but just looked it up and now it is a gob smacking £175.74 (German sense of humour) via Bosch`s web site.
The prerinse the heater is not even in the circuit so could be why the machine works normally on that programme and that is my thinking on the why it then works and the quick wash at 35 degree is the inside of the machine hot or dripping cold at the end- sounds like the latter so points to a heater part earthing fault which at a certain age was pretty common.Odd! Usually when this happens it is either the impellor jug or the wash motor is seized. So as a failure senario as the machine fills the impellor jug tells the pcb that tells the wash motor to switch on, if it doesn`t the machine then can carry on putting, say, 2 extra litres of water which triggers that mushroom topped anti flood device under the bottom basket which rises up = turns on the drain pump then goes down and water then comes into the machine and that cycle of events carries on. Are you sure the impellor jug has been fitted the right way around as per its direction arrow? Check the wash motor. Well aware this does not account that the machine fills on prerinse only.
“13.7k, 74C – 7.5k. The heating element has a resistance of ~24 ohms (which I guess corresponds to a rating of ~2.4kW from Ohm’s Law).” What about a heater to Earth fault? possibility there.UKWG wrote: “As an update, I took a punt on a new inverter board and the E57 went away”
So Joseph one presumes the thing is now working as it should and that was his stated update.Great stuff, well done.
“Water pump is loud in comparison! Can I get a silent water pump?” No silent because chugging of the water within the pump on empty OR if not that possible bearing in the pump – test for up and down movement “Side play” of the impellor but carefully! Complete pump : have a look here https://www.partmaster.co.uk/permanent-magnet-sync-pump-assembly-with-pump-housing-35w/product.pl?pid=5150986&query=K10W7D18 that pump fits many other machines too.
