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two chemicals that mix together and seperate as heat is applied = distilled water and ammonia + a small pencil heater = an absorption fridge (or at least a slightly simplified absorption fridge in your case). Electrolux did make some full sized versions which were brilliantly long lived usually all that went up the creek was the heater which was easily replaceable – far to successful for these days of frost free complexity / stupidity.
I can only give you general pointers with these things. Sounds like you bought a second hand machine the way you word it using “recently bought” otherwise it would be u/guarantee. So the t/dryer does try and heat in order for condensing water leaking via the door problem could be an internal blockage via a condenser blockage behind the front l/h/s plastic panel at the bottom but I presume you checked that – unfamilar with this model with very little info on it but you want to be careful in that area so do not poke about with anything sharp `cause some of these things have refrigerant pipes within the non removable condenser matrix – punucture a pipe in there and its toast – does it look mangled?. So the other question is: does the drain pump actually work because if that fails the obvious doesn`t happen as you stated and so the condensed water has to try and find away to get out = via the door and the seal. Is the door seal in good nick too is another question too. Fans: as far as I can see via Partmaster spares there will be two, 1 is attached to the motor shaft – doubt that is the problem as they, being plastic, would break = a horrendous racket when the drum is turning so we can eliminate that one so that leaves the 2nd fan a black electrical cooling fan (square body shape) at the front behind the r/h/s panel – the one with the air intake slats…does that work? Other than these pointers, which is all I can give you, you are basically down to a refrigerant problem or lint blockage/s elsewhere internally at a guess perhaps near the drain pump area.
As a general point heat pump condenser dryers problems (of which there are many) are a pain to diagnose, certainly on forums and bad enough even in person.
Do not forget these things were flogged with 5 year parts and labour warranty so long as no one has welded a screw driver and cocked something up you might want to go down that route.I`d keep away from the Bosch model/s that have that door that pulls down then slides underneath the oven out of view: “hide and slide” or is it “slide and hide” from my experience the door falls off it runners or/and jams i.e, half open, even near shut, or fully open take ya pick = Slide and jam is more appropriately accurate. Load of complicated expensive and trendy (for a time) rubbish for no real world gain. Almost caused me a nervous breakdown trying to fix the pile of……. Hopefully even Bosch saw sense (you never now, has been known on rare occasions!) and if there is a God hopefully it has been discontinued and consigned to history BUT it might not be? Think they were used on The Great British Bake off programme some years ago – can`t remember now.
Back to your question….basically unanswerable from doors that fall off to heating elements that fail after 1 year. I think generally everything is impaired one way or another – seen some horrific expensive premature faults on expensive stuff bought by Henley on Thames Brigade – certainly compared to an ancient Belling, Karron, Tricity or 1960s Revo = all were expensive in relative terms back then but people could still afford them; ever wondered why we, as in general population, are getting so much poorer now? Well my East German mates found that out the hard way: dated East German electrical goods that were very well made and very affordable and fixable (but sold themselves out for a fast food beef burger) to expensive West German stuff that wasn`t a patch on their stuff and cost a fortune to get fixed….but I digress. You take pot luck BUT do your research watch for poor spares back-up with the cheaper off-beat brands in fact DO NOT GO THERE. Maybe a straight forward Zanussi or straight forward Bosch (if it exists) is a good compromise I had less trouble with those, still not brilliant though!.Yes. Well the test sequence and fault code sussing out is a mess on these things but at least you now have a workshop manual with most other makes other than Chinese makes your stuffed for any info at all let alone a manual. I reckon it is E3 or E7 the heater that has snuffed it OR the thermistor itself or heater / thermister wire/s broken in the door loom at the bottom which is not unknown (in other words I`ve had that happen) but that is a good guess based on what you have already tested /replaced. Your thermistor isn`t reading high enough ohms being nearly 18 k at 8 degrees would`ve expected it to be about 24 k`ish at 8 degrees because it says at 15 degrees the thermister should read 17.48k.
As you`ll see the heater can only be removed from the motor by dismantling the motor`s housing so you really want to avoid that unless you have no choice so have a good test of that part with your meter and to earth too. If you have to dismantle make sure you put some small amount of washing up liquid on the O ring seal and the inside of the plastic housing on rebuild otherwise the O seal stretches badly = a disasterous leak which you certainly do not want.
Looks like the repair has snowballed into a world of financial hurt at this point….been there myself many a time with dishwashers over 40 years…horrible damn things. Hope you suss it out without anymore expense.PS. You might want to read the model`s 3, 2, 1 star reviews plus read some of the French reviews too (although remembering that the French will moan about anything and everything – Zut Alors!). The model WW90T554DAN has been around for about 2 years BUT the trouble with reviews is that they do not allow updates: ” I bought my Samsung and it is the best thing since a pair of Y fronts” A review after one wash cycle although they neglect to mention that……Then they get a run of trouble 7 months on and cannot tell you how disappointed they are with a long sob story. The warranty is 5 years parts and labour with 10 years on the motor. The 20 year on the motor was apparently a limited special offer, now ended, hence the confusion; make sure you register the thing with Samsung – that is important – do not want to give them warranty claim wriggle room do you. I take it you down loaded the “User Destruction Manual” to check out the programme times and programme capacities – would not be surprised that only 4 programmes you could use 9 kg load and full spin speed…so checking that would be a good idea; things maybe not what you`d expect?
Will make Reference to ww90t554dan/S1 in graphite colour version.
Many “advancements” over last 23 years some are based on total bull, cheap use of parts, Wifi – stupid idea, automatic cartridge dosing – an even more crazy idea, brushless motor (brushless motors is nothing new, had those in pre 1980s) but brushless inverter motor pcb control is fairly recent (last 12 years in one form or another), long programme times such as your Samsung mentioned = 199 minute 40 degree wash – so that is a 3.30 hour wash cycle but that`ll seem like it is longer and could cause concern that you might be dead before picking up your State Pension! Steam cleaning – a gimmick: will be on only certain programmes such as bedding but may well prove to be no more of a success than a straight forward 60 degree wash, what really kills germs long term is using the drum clean programme often as required but then that programme is used without clothes being in it which is probably why most folk neglect using it. Add wash door flap + not that uncommon that these break and pretty sure that means a new door complete which is not cheap based on the previous models – just looked that up £161.27 for a complete door. Bubble soak – a gimmick, least the way Samsung portray it = no real difference to a 1970s Indesit L6 or L5 Bio soak programme as I can gather. On the other hand, these days, as per your mentioned Samsung, you now get drum clean programme which is useful but how many folks actually ever use it is debatable. Inverter motors get 5 years warranty (though your samsung might get 20 years as the ad I read then contradicts itself saying 5 years so not sure there….and neither are they by the look of it) with 5 years parts and labour on the rest of the contraption (though doubt it will not cover plastic parts….the bits that go obsolete at the drop of a hat).
So let`s pick some of this apart. So why is Wifi a dumb idea? Well it encourages folk to put the machine on when you are not at home! Not a good idea. Distrust all washing machines (and most other appliances) as much as any sensible person distrusts British Gov`t (especially a Tory one). If the thing is going to screw up and flood / malfunction you want to be around when it happens and not down the Gym and then coming back to a “futility room” magically transformed into an in-door swimming pool, where plastic ducks are optional! Unlikely? No it isn`t!
Cartridge dosing (which your Samsung model mercifully does not have): complex and expensive when it gets blocked up or its directional motor jams which it will – totally unnecessary and appeals to wretched females who do not want to sully their painted nails with the laborious physical movement of manually putting in detergent = too much effort and distracts from Tik tok usage apparently.
Inverter motors: very reliable which is why most brands give an extended warranty, what isn`t so reliable is the pcb that controls it (as many a Bosch owner has found out as a 174 quid touch) which may or may not be covered itself by an extended warranty depending upon the brand concerned.
Cheap parts and cheap materials: they are all at it but that is nothing new it is just these days it is more blatant but just doesn`t visually look it. Take a Samsung for instance the paint was thin: I made the mistake of taking an unboxed new machine with an upright trolley placed at the rear of the machine, a piece of cardboard I used dislodged itself, after a mere 11 miles by the time I got there the trolley had removed the paint to bare metal.
Went to a Samsung WW90 something or other: twin motor drive this means one motor and belt worked the drum, t`other motor and belt worked a rear drum impellor. Made a right racket on spin as the drum impellor`s spider shaft had rotted out – no parts available – 6 years old! Make sure this Samsung you are after t`aint one of those……..just checked for you, your model that you are interested in isn`t one of those.
Is it a good idea to buy a Samsung? God knows! Many people do and have little to no trouble but over all they tend to suffer from pcboard weird faults, blocked up pumps – well that is down to the user. Some drum spiders are known to fail prematurely. Parts can be tricky to get hold of after the warranty ends, least historically. A dismantleable tank is good as it least gives you a fighting chance to replace the drum bearings if they ever fail. They seem to use 3 rd party for spares sales….never a good idea. Not a fan of Samsung myself but then Bosch spares set up is excellent and generally most models are reasonably good but I`m not a fan of those either (most Bosch have sealed tanks) or Miele for different reasons.
What went wrong with the Zanussi….bearings and the now obsolete thick shaft spider?? Or no spin or drum action – usually the motor brushes worn out. What is wrong with getting a new Zanussi or an Electrolux – expensive spares, short warranty perhaps put you off?Got no tips for actually testing the board sadly. It is a case of changing it and hope you do not throw your spons away as indeed I had to do when repairing this stuff; luckily I was always successful in fixing the blighters with a new pcb. Someone else might be able to add something to answer your question more fully if you are lucky.
And if you go down the replacement board route as far as I`m aware that main power board is model specific i.e. when ordered it will be pre programmed for your specific model and serial number. Yes I know, it`s a pain in the arse.
A damn leak. Great U sussed it. You might want to copy and paste the bit about brushes though and print it off for the future.
Important to know so thanks. Wires via doors / hinges was never a good idea / just asking for trouble.
If you change the impellor jug the machine is apt to leak usually from the hose junction with the water fill chamber l/h/side of the machine – very common – as it is filling up the machine so refit hose with ev stick glue as a sealant and retest the next day.
The leak triggers the float emergency float = pumping out noise.
Other favorite leak is from the right hand side where the s/steel tank meets the plastic base because the plastic base warps from front to back – it bows out causing the machine to spit water which of course also then triggers the float.Check the inverter motor`s field coil first but I reckon it is the motor pcb (the board between the two suspension legs) – had that before a fair few times – but they certainly don`t all fail with the large capacitor visually failing i.e. had them look spotlessly brand new but still a duff board. Had a scoot around to try to suss out E57 (which is not a fault code listed on the Bosch site and one I myself have never seen) and got several differing pointers to do with the door lock which I think is wrong. I found this on youtube.
Ремонт модуля инвертора двигателя
https://youtu.be/_Kx6bJ7_0sw?si=oTKZUG27j3vWtrfvIn English: motor inverter module repair. But only to show the work involved unless you can understand Russian? (which is at least easier than Finnish or Polish!).
Here`s another video this time in German: https://youtu.be/6fQEJ6Qyof8?si=65M6351d6khrMeDPPart number of a complete new pcb is 00706019 price: a finger burning £178.64 though you buy at your risk if that doesn`t cure the problem.
Someone else on this forum might well say the same or indeed something else since you only just posted your post.
As far as a service manual goes I doubt it.Might not be drum bearings! Drum bearings usually run a rough sounding rumble noise which I wouldn`t describe as a jet engine noise. Might however be motor bearings. Before you buy anything remove the drive belt then take hold of motor spindle (the armature) and see if any up and down play then try revolving spindle by hand then select spin and then listen. Some Zanussis also had a plastic sheet impregnated over the actual armature within the motor and that over years peels off as a sheet so check that too before doing anything other than also revolving drum without the belt attached to the motor.
