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so you get a tingling shock. Have you plumbed the machine next to a metal sink? If you touch the metal s/steel sink and metal drum as u unload the machine it is usually the sink is not earthed to copper tap pipes – fairly common that one can get around a roughly 70 to 100 volt jolt but less if touching paint work. Can also be earth detached from machine`s mains terminal block – does the machine`s cable look pulled as it disappears into the machine? .Or no earth wire connection in the plug or the wall socket. Points to check first.
This is an intelligent guess. Can`t find much about your dryer but then that is Samsung for you. However there is a video on youtube that does point to the motor and the sympton is stopping some way in the cycle and points to a black switch attached to the motor as part of the motor`s terminal block. From what I can gather the contacts within this black switch get burnt and fail = no motor action = the fault code. It also states that the switch box is only available with a new motor (of course it will be!). Could be barking up the wrong tree and your machine might have something entirely different but worthwhile having a bloody good look if you can.
check out this video: https://youtu.be/Zck93QQ1cvE?si=9cxhZcqtvPzYiOts this is not your model BUT it MIGHT have the same motor and it MIGHT be your problem. I looked up your model via samsung spares 4our house site and found their part number (it is not a Samsung part number) 4106280OH (£140.21) but there is no picture of that motor listed as that would be really useful in order to x reference.
Judging by the number of various videos on the motor this would seem to be a fairly common failure point and looking at the `orrible cheap and nasty switch I can see why..but there you go, C21st strikes again! Note there could well be a mirade of other causes other than a duff motor such as jockey pulley if it has one, sensors / t/stats, pcb. If under a warranty you know what is the best thing to do don`t you?Reasons a bosch washing machine will not pump out apart from blockages. pump winding failure, impellor broken off, impellor jammed, pump impellor stiff all these are fairly common. Broken loom wires ie one of the 2 thin, usually brown coloured wires, to the pump. Pressure switch faulty – would usually mean no fill because it thinks it has water when it hasn`t and if so takes out the heater element if set on a wash programme though you would find out all is not well from the last time machine was used so usually would`ve failed on one of the rinses. This would also mean no spin too as, once again, machine thinks it is full of water when it isn`t. PCB problem.
Inverted PART blockage in the air trap – usual scenario is: machine fills with water but to a higher level than is normal but, luckily, stops filling. Does the wash ok, gets to pump out pre 1st rinse fill, pumps out water BUT air in air trap and so pressure level switch has trouble escaping (due to the pin sized blockage) so switch cannot click out. Because switch cannot click out machine now thinks full of water and so will not spin.I did check the brushes (well one of them, the one you can get to without taking the whole motor off). It still had an inch of brush left. I’m not sure if that is a lot, but I am assuming that is plenty still.
Yes that is amazing, hardly worn out at all based on that 1″ length and its 13 years old; absolute miracle! Still t`other one might have jammed? Did you have the brushes changed within the last 4 years?
Well taking into account it`s13 years old and if you can get your spons back on your parts bought buy a new machine instead. Not sure what though as nothing seems to be as good as it once was including Bosch but that is just my opinion.
Briefly, the golden rule is 1) buy something you have heard of preferably something made in Europe despite all its sins 2) keep away from Chinese and possibly Korean stuff too – spares disappear quicker than a Markus and Spensicus lunchtime prawn sandwich 3) do your own research on the cost of spares for the future – have fun with that one! 4) cheap machines often have expensive spares 5) expensive machines can swing either way on spares costs: pleasantly surprised to 4 boxes of tissues worth of woe 6) EBAC washing machines you could at least consider as a contender 7) most machines will have sealed tank of those that do not are upper range Miele, one of the Bosch series, cheaper Vestel Turkish made machines, and Chinese and Korean machines. 8) I`d keep well away from auto cartridge detergent and internet enabled machines – your`re just asking for trouble there! 9) Hotpoint/ Indesit have several weak points despite the 10 year free parts (free if you call them out that is) at circ 130 quid a shot. Could go on but you get the picture. So you are probably left with Bosch as most folk are.
Best of luck.PS. If all goes swimmingly well then for the first 2 loads of washing keep the amount light to allow the new brushes to bed in – this is important. Correction due to dodgy memory!: original belt is 1255 not 1254 length though you could still use a 1252 belt should that be a cheaper option.
The black soot / dust is from the motor brushes – it can get everywhere! Pretty confident that the brushes are on their last legs, given the age of the machine I`d be not surprised in the least. The brushes wear out almost down to 4mm before the power starts jumping through the brush dust between the brush running face and the commutator – may or may not hear a crackling noise, usually you do. The more it does that until its final demise the bigger the risk of something getting costly nuked.
Best thing to do is to check it out ASAP before you get another problem.
To check the motor brushes given the access> The only way is to remove the whole motor (and so the brushes) from the machine is from the back (fooling about trying to sort it out even with the front panel removed will get you nowhere). So a few pointers as to how I do it: stick a piece of carpet under the front feet, preferably rubber based, then tilt the front of the machine against a wall at a suitable angle. Remove the rear cover`s torx screw and remove the rear cover. Lie down and disconnect the motor plug (by pressing the 2 connector block locating tangs) and the earth (if fitted with a cable tie cut that). Where you removed the rear back panel screw get some electrical tape and cover the screw hole raised area – ye olde wrist shreader….all part of the German sense of humour! The motor is held on to the tank with 2 10mm spanner size self tapping screws – remove these two with a ring spanner or a socket or both. Get a thin flat bladed screwdriver and leaver the motor forward until it is loose. Best to get a wrapped up towel/s under machine`s motor in case the motor fails – which it no doubt will.
Removing the brushes. U do not have to bend or unscrew anything. Just disconnect each wire and push the rear of the flat tang to the right which will release it from the holder. Gently pull the brush out NOTING WHICH WAY the angle running face is pointed because you can refit the new brush 180 degrees round the wrong way. Blow any dust away. Fit your new brush – point: sometimes these are fiddly to do AND the brush is usual a tight fit until about 6 mm worth until it hits the commutator then the bush will be loose. Refit the braided tang and the brush wire. T`other brush is done in the same way. Revolve the motor spindle (armature) to make sure no brush has been fitted wrong and if that has happened it will make a loud clicking noise.
Test the motor with a multimeter on highest Ohms setting: If you have 6 active wire motor tags they work as pairs 1 pair is the tacho, middle pair is the brushes/ thermal fuse and next last pair field windings, if you have a 7 tag and 7 wires the 7th wire is the just the tapped field coil for the high speed so you get a reading on the last pair.
Condition of the commutator: with failed brushes the commutator segments will look matt black which is ok. If the braid damaged the commutator get a strip of the finest sandpaper with the lightest touch revolve by hand the armature to take down (smooth) the damage and you should get away with this. Any obvious damage to segments e.g. say if you had 24 segments in total and 2 next to each other looked different to all the others the motor has likely to have become a gonna or if not it will soon be with the possiblity taking something else out.
Refit the motor making sure the rear motor rubber bushes are fitted. Can be easier said than done but you have to get under the machine to rehang the motor on all 4 tank plastic sprigotts. Then redo the 2 screws – do not overtighten. Then reattach the motor block – can only go in one way and then the earh wire and a new cable tie and then the belt****
Test machine on spin first and do not forget the drum will do nothing for about 35 seconds.
**** if you want to replace the belt the pattern belts are fine and a lot cheaper than the genuine. Original belt was 1254j5 but you can use a 1252j5 pattern belt….2mm in length difference is neither here or there since the old belts can stretch 2″ before pinging off.(visible damage on flyback IC component) – like blown up? Or black dust which is normal. Just looked up pcb on Bosch spares web site which has confused the hell out of me! It lists the programme selector front board (the one with the curly springs) but not the power board behind it OR could it be that they both now come together? 00644432 at a depressing £178.64 is the only reference to the front board that seems to be listed. Brand New board/s or s/hand? You do not normally get too many pcb`s on these things going wrong unless something else caused it with reference to something on the board having got nuked by something else being nuked.
Does the motor work, have you checked the motor brushes which is the achillies heel at a certain age, 7 years +on average, (this model uses pair of the common ones 00154740 £23.72 (unless someone fitted a Qualtex pattern motor in the past) or you can get various pattern brushes of various dubious quality for a lot less but I wouldn`t unless for test purposes). You might want to check the motor as well as the brushes to make sure the armature is not nuked by the brush spring or the copper braide or, God forebid, a raised commutator segment hence:”I have also tried separate spin and drain cycles, neither of which do anything”. If it turns out the commutator looks dodgy it takes out the motor`s internal thermal fuse = a no go motor with a strong likely hood of a damaged pcb. Just some pointers for you to check.
General note to other readers. I am all for replacing simple things, pumps, door seals that kind of stuff but you can spiral into a world of hurt (like major money!) chasing these buggers and before you know it ,especially anything to do with pcb`s (which cannot be returned back to suppliers), have spent loads of hard earned money and still not repaired the damn machine – you could say that the repair trade /going Green brigade play on this……..and if you think that…….. you`d be spot on!Even more updates: the Statesman larder fridge that I bought in March 2023 has failed me, and having handed it my revolver, it knows what it must now do!
Noticed that it has been serverely icing up whether the stat set on 4 or 1 and a bit. It is not the stat at fault as it cyles on /off as you would expect, neither has the thing got a defrost heater to fail least via the wiring diagram. Bit of a strange fault the way it has nucked itself. Anyway, the thing is being exchanged next week so we`ll see how things pan out from there with the new one. I mean how difficult should this be? It is a simple larder fridge with no whiff of a pcb to screw up and yet it has.“1)because they are no longer produced in Germany, 2)and have the same plastic parts as many other cheaper brands- so in her opinion, 3)they are hugely overpriced and not worth it.”.
1) reckon the top of the range contraptions still are but then if they`re anything like recent BMW`S, Audi or Mercs let`s pray not. 2) think she or he really means the plastic doors on the more cheaper models are no more different in construction – when I had a look I think she/he/or even, these days: “it”, is spot on. Struck me that a Beko door had the same C21st “feel” about it as zee Miele.3) That is just an opinion which is fair enough though no one in retail is normally allowed to have an opinion as that shows intelligence – mate of mine got the sack for stressing an opinion in the days of Comet but then Comet (and certainly Indesit who I worked for) management you wouldn`t have put in charge of a village school fete ice cream scoop! Time as usual time vill tell as crystal balls are well renowned for being unreliable.
Feel free to up-date your experience with your Miele as time marches on.“but I have been wrong before!” Me too, but this is what I looked up!! There are two boards apparently 1) the main fascia pcb power board and 2) a small touch sensor pcb also within the fascia panel. Tried looking the parts up on the esteemed uk whitegoods spares but no joy so turned to Partmaster uk. 1) is part number 3885288pm and is laughably priced at £264.36 and 2) is part 3747035pm at 36 quid. Both these will fit, according to Partmaster, your model number but you might have missed a bit after the model number so that is: /et, or /eu or /le. Most usually are /eu either way those all check out ok to the above part number if you have anything else you`ll need to double check.
It will probably be 1) that has failed as in my limited experience as this is the way Samsung stuff screws up given your problem BUT you could do well to check the motor wires: from failing memory there`s a plastic wire loom guide on a stalk covered in a 2″ grey squashy foam anchored to the chassis base behind the rear panel and it here that the wires break then temporarily rejoin as the tank moves around causing all manner of fun and games so check that first. One presumes that the motor does tumble and spin normally?
If that wire loom checks out it it will probably be pcb 1) which you can`t test so it`ll be a blind shot in the dark purchase at major money. Please note that both part numbers are not Samsung part numbers as Partshafter uses its own part numbers to stop X referencing on part costs (I more than suspect as info is king) but if you do get the Samsung part number you can at least track that backwards using the Partshafter spares site to confirm. Your pcb should have a label with a part number starting with DC. Have a look on Ebay for spares as you feel fit: someone presently has a pcb up for sale stating that it intermittingly stops the machine so least one presumes they are on the right track too; just don`t buy that pcb; folks flog all manner of useless 2nd hand parts so be warned but at least that seller at least states that it`s faulty!!“the heating element was open circuit”. You and nearly everyone else with these things!
“After a while it continues to run” But does it run to the end / finish and has the machine actually pumped out? Only ask because the wires to the outlet / drain pump might not have been refitted or not clipped- you normally have to disconnect these wires (depending how you change the heat pump wash motor i.e. the hard way or the easier way) in order to fit the new heat pump least when used to work on these things.I presume the thing actually heats up now? If not best check those wires are all refitted too. Heat pump wash motor should be part number 00651956 via Bosch site at a moderately depressing £132.65 (keep your receipt they are apt to fail again: my record stood at under 5 minutes!!!).Sorry it was the way you wrote it with a gap between the U and the 4 and me copying and paste. Does the freezer actually fan work? Could be part 00602671 freezer sensor ntc OR the freezer thermal fuse part 00172296. A bit of a guess on my part but it is something to go on at least and based on a similar machine that I used to get sentenced to work on years ago: Ariston 4 seasons (nothing but hassle) frosty free f/fzr from the same era as your Bosch.
Something is not right with the model number !! Will not allow access to bosch`s part site based on that model info you stated.
Update: Freezer Curry`s essentials CUF55W19 seems to have been discontinued as noticed on 19/09/2023. If you go to Argos site and look up Bush NE5585UCFR (for completeness sake: £179, it has a 1 yr warranty but with cheap insurance to extend if you wanted to) you will now find it which is the same as the Statesman U355W (2 year warranty as standard was £220 now seen at £270 – yeeks, that`s inflation for you!) with of a very small cosmetic difference to the door handle area – which is neither here or there – as I only noticed because I bought the Bush as a 2nd freezer.
