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yes the top heater is the dryer heater. What can happen / could happen is that the heater goes to earth though it is not taking out the trip – this can happen whether you use the dryer mode only sometimes or more often. When it goes to earth it might be by a variable amount one day more or less on an other day = somtimes the machine lock works sometimes it don`t – this is all very common on modern contraptions – typical C21st ! In other words the earth leakage temporarily affects the pcb which could have an effect on the door lock. Getting several faults in parallel is not unknown with any of this modern stuff irrespective of the brand/make (Chinese or otherwise) just that some makes are more prone than others. Might be on the right tracks might not be you will not know until you disconnect the dryers heater wires to give it ago. If you set your ordinary test meter on the highest ohms setting (with a good battery/ batteries fitted) and put one lead to one of the heater terminals (with both heater wires disconnected) and t`other to the aluminium heater`s manifold housing (i.e. an earth or to an earth wire) you might read a heater to earth reading though if you don`t it doesn`t mean that the heater has not gone to earth as you would normally use a megger (500volt dc tester) to test for an earthing problem hence suggestion to remove the heater wires thus disconnecting the heater out of the circuit. May not make any difference one jot but worth a go. Should that do the trick you would need a new dryer heater.
Can`t find a salt pot cap listed, but that does not mean you cannot get it! The regeneration valve with its spring and plunger is a Partmaster part number 3821285pm £16.05p or if you go to Beko spares website ( which is really Partmaster) the part number they are using is 3060707OH. Same price but might have different i.e. cheaper post & pack (?). None of those part numbers are actual Beko part numbers.
You have to turn power off, remove the lid, remove the plinth, to remove the l/h/side metal cover. The possible offending valve is of course the one attached to the saltpot/softener unit. Very general comment as far as all dishwashers go it is not common that a solenoid / plunger fails, and yet yours` might have! It is far more common that the salt pot cap is the problem for whatever the reason it may well be. As far as the valve constantly receiving power that is not common but if so probably the pcboard playing up. START with the cheapest option part first if unsure which`ll be the s/pot/cap.. Obviously if the salt pot cap is loose, i.e. not fairly tight, that`ll be why you have the problem.Since your machine is a washer dryer and your towards your wits end why not try this: turn the power off. remove the work top, pull off the tumble dryer heater wires and isolate them with tape. Then try the machine and see what happens with the door lock/programme problem. Make sure you do not select the drying mode.
The official kit to do an extension for the drain water is to use Bosch part 12013826. This hose is only 2 mtrs long. price from Bosch is £6.15 plus p.p, price from Ransom Spares £10.45, Price from FixPart at a typical robbery price of £17.22. Price from Amazon about a £13 fleecing. So that is going to be too short from what U say.
The other ways to do this is to use your existing dryer`s drainage hose and use a joiner to another extension pipe. The joiner you`ll probably get from an Aquatic Center and the pipe of the right diameter from there too or use the 12013826 to extend or of course preferably a complete 2.5meter hose of the right nozzle diameter without any joins at all.So long as nothing kinks whether rubber or transparant plastic does not matter
What you do not want to do is end up with something far too long that will coil and so get air breaks – the pump is fairly guttless – so bear that point in mind. Try to avoid having a washing machine and the dryers pipe into the same standard diameter single stand pipe as the dryer one will get squashed / kinked – usually what happens!.Ref TCLff0814wc0uk spares update. Here`s a spares link for those who need it in the future. As you`ll see the parts are not cheap.
https://fixpart.co.uk/en/model-number/tcl/ff0814wc0uk outrageous, scandalously priced spares.“Do these machines have test modes you can put them in to get them to test the presence of or put load through the heating element?”
Not that I know of.
Broken heater or themistor wire perhaps? Admit that is not that common on these machines but have had it happen twice near the plastic tag guide thing on the tank – roughly about 12″ from the heater.That`s because you`ve got the top basket the wrong way around!! Pull the basket out, clip the front rail stops out the way, and pull out the top basket from the rails and turn the top basket 180 degrees and refit.
PS. If no wash motor action the heater`s plastic push pin should not move to engage with its heater m/swt = no heat. Of course it is possible that the heater is duff too – two faults running in parallel. Pray to whichever God/s take your fancy that that heater unit it is ok as it is not cheap and not for the faint hearted to replace! Price of spares for these things are generally expensive; and over the last 3 years even more so.
Part 0410. If the red float within the moulding (0410) rises as the machine fills due to a POSSIBLE blockage to trigger the 3 tag micro switch which turns the pump on thinking that the machine is or will be going into overfill mode. Since you say there is no blockage in the semi transparent hose (very common) between it and the sump (hose 0145) there are 3 points to check. 1) part 0410. underneath the red float as part of the moulding is a drainway about 1cm in depth if that gets blocked up the water coming down from the fill matrix backs up and triggers the float to rise. Part 0410 can be dismantled to clean it out but make sure you mark the top of the microswitch`s 3 wire connector because you can put it back the wrong way round. If however 0410 looks a clean as a whistle you can get this 2) There is no blockage! As the water shoots through the fill system the wash motor does not start, if the wash motor does not start up you will get the problem as if you have a blockage as the motor working sucks the incoming fill water around the internal wash blades allowing the machine to continue to fill to the right level and switch off the incoming water via the impellor jug water flow counter litres / over time, lack of wash motor working will of course mean no heat too. You might want to whip off the r/h/side cover of the machine and check that the motor`s armature Aluminium cooling fan can be turned so carefully flip the stubby cooling blades with a thin screwdriver – if it turns freely you haven`t got the problem!. At the age of the dishwasher it is common that the motor seizes due to falling part 0456- the seals, but the trouble is motor part 0454 is obsolete. BUT:
3) USUALLY the problem is the impellor jug water counter page 5 item 0153 as follows: this cream/white coloured plastic thing counts (via an impellor) how much fill water is entering the machine and gives feed back to the module (pcb) located in the door. If this part screws up (pretty common) the water enters in the normal way but the impellor jug does not tell the pcb to start the motor = there is then an excess of water doing nothing due to no wash motor action (but not necessarily because of a duff wash motor) = the water backs up = the rising and falling of the red float so fill on then pump on repeat etc…… The impellor jug is located rear of the machine on the l/h/side basically about 6″ from the rear of the valve via a 5″ hose and its connection via hose to the matrix; next to impossible to test it but cheap enough to take the gamble if point 1 and 2 prove to be ok. If it is the impellor jug make sure the new impellor jug is replaced exactly how the old one was so mark as necessary also make dead sure there are no leaks so you might need evo stick glue
All great fun and games as only Bosch / Siemens knows how!.“The main oven has stopped working on all 8 settings, with no heat to any of the 3 elements, the circulation fan not spinning, and the light not coming on. However, the casing cooling fan does operate on all settings apart from defrost (I guess that makes sense)”.
At a guess I`d say the overload stat has failed. I am not familiar with your model. You`d have to remove the back WITH THE POWER OFF 1st (!). You are looking for this: 818730424 so google this part number to get a picture – a little round part with 2 tags- so you`ll know what to look for.. This might be the part you are looking for but I cannot guarantee this is the correct part number. If that has gone open circuit, wires to it burnt off OR looks ok visually it has probably just gone open circuit so test with a meter – Do Not bypass it by joining the wires together. The stat should be somewhere near the main loom from the mains terminal block.
If the wires to it are nuked, cut and retag. If the wires are ok but the o/l/stst has open circuit it either failed because it wanted to or failed because the area overheated. The stat should be near the main loom from the mains terminal block as a rough guide.Before buying a new machine check that the door closes properly “without springing out open” except you do not actually see that happen physically. Try setting up a programme, press start, close door push the door in at the top middle and keep under hand pressure and see if that makes any difference. If the machine then starts doing something get back to the site and we`ll take it from there asking the question: does the door feel very light on opening as though it does not have much resistance so it half drops?
To be frank, due to E01 it will most likely be the power board (right hand side at the back) and that is Bosch / siemens repair bod only replaceable via a lap top at a snip of a price £276.14 (I`ll keep my comments on that figure to myself!!!) but this is its part number anyway: 12004868.
