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Hi. You do not give the Zanussi`s model and nor the product code beginning with a 9 so I`ll the possibilities in general terms – no problem.
If the machine was noisy on spin = a rumbling noise I`d presume you would mention that because you cannot fail to not notice it- that would be duff bearings causing the drum to drop / revolve like a buckled bicycle wheel that would cause the clothes hole / tearing problem OR the spider arm/s are cracked.*****
If you are 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure that the drum feels smooth with no distorted raised holes, also with no damage to the paddles, no scrapping noises on drum revolving (bra wire under the drum) then you are left with the gap between the very front of the drum and the back of the door seal and some Zanussi`s models are well known for this gap to increase! Nothing of course actually physically shrinks but what does happen is the door seal`s moulding, where it meets the drum, droops away = an enlarged gap between the two i.e. the drum and door seal by about .5 to 1cm. This is by far your most likely fault. If so you would need a new door seal.
***** since your Zanussi is circ 5 years old it most likely got a sealed tank where changing bearings / spider supports / drum can not be replaced only the whole plastic tank unit (typically 160 to 200 quid and you would be advised to change the door seal at the same time). However, there was 1 or maybe a couple of Zanussi`s that were made in Thailand ( and I cannot remember the model number) that tank units can be dismantled and parts replaced, though whether the parts are available and how much (common sense would tell you a damaged drum would not be cheap) is without model numbers a pure and usually a pretty hopeless guess and I have a feeling they would be older than 5 years anyway but thought I`d mention it none the less..
Calling out a repair bod to be told you need a new tank unit at X price and being charged a Y callout for all for nothing should be avoided as far as possible of course!!!!
Get your model number and prod code beginning with 9 and go to Zannusi UK spares type the info in and click Functional Parts box this will bring up a picture with ID numbers the rest is obvious to then get the part numbers and price.Design fault IMO = paddle screw/s in the wrong place relative to the plain of travel of the belt`s width. In other words no matter what you do the belt will always over ride a quarter to over half the head of a paddle screw hence splitting of the inside belt rib no matter how far you had to play with with the belts position on the motor pulley simply because you have so little to play with. I wrote to Hotpoint about this 2 years ago but never got any reply back and didn`t really expect one either – they`re that kind of business!
The only thing you can contemplate is to fit a narrower width belt so it goes basically like this: I think the original belt was 1970 length H gauge 7 ribs width. This was changed to a shorter belt 1965 H7 presumably to allow a tighter belt but missed the whole damn point since it still rode over the paddle screws. This inturn was then changed to still using a 1965 H but to a narrower width of 6 ribs instead of the 7ribs. Whether ditching 1 rib saves the day I could not tell you ( since I no longer work in the trade) and possibility it really needed to go to a 5 to miss the screw head completely and if so the belt would then be not be strong enough for its tumble load.
So, the answer may well be that you could try a 1965H6 part number C00313102 and set the belt on the furthest motor shaft pulley groove to the right to suit its plain of travel and hopefully miss the screw head.Not surprising that inefficient low-margin vented are being gradually phased out. I completely disagree with you they are wonderful machines vented tumble dryers but heavy on the power but then at least they dry the clothes in a reasonable time! The trade has lost what few marbles it ever had but heat pumps are all the rage: the consumer ius alkways right…except when they`re not. Since you say you 3-4 times a week a new vented one should have more or less the same running cost as your vented Zanussi
Normal condenser and trendy heat pump condenser usually suffer from blockages but there are loads of other screw-ups that can and do occur and some of those can cost mega bucks to put right out of warranty. Heat pump dryers, overall, are now better than they were but that does not say much – you are basically buying a computer operated contraption with cheap proccessor components in a hot enviroment so what could possiibly go wrong? Which works on the reverse of a fridge that is expensive to buy, but cheaper to run, but takes longer to “dry” that is until it goes wrong…..which it will and out of warranty. Trendy junk in my opinion. Used to be bought by unthinking trendy green conscious brigade in Henley whilst owning an Audi SUV gas guzzling tank or rather make that 2 …yeah, I know they could not make the connection between the two differing concepts, typical of Henley, Gerrards Cross and Chalfont St Peter!.
Disregard all reviews or if you want to be selective to suit an agenda Beko vented models DTGV7000 or the 8kg 8000 got 8.2 out of 10 reviews and the Zenith ZDVS700W which is the same as the DTGV7000 got slightly higher based on a fewer number of reviews because they have far less sales. So where did you read the bad reviews please? Hardly anyone sells vented anymore and I`ve been through most of the common retailers but that does not mean they are tat it just means old hat in a new improved modern Britain (sarcasm should be noted there)
“Our 12 year old Zanussi vented dryer is making intermittent scraping noises as the drum rotates. Bearing on its way out?” Possible rear phosphor bronze plain bearing is at fault but not common on these more likely to be the front drum *cloth/ spongy/felt support and plastic bearing (depending upon your model and product code) belt will be on last legs check for splits / fraying = they are cheap especially the pattern version usually same make as genuine but at 60{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} lower in price. Jockey pulley belt tensioner knack`ed = inexpensive, motor bearings possible = scrap machine based on cost unless you have a bearing puller. Something trapped at the front due to worn out felt*- pretty common failure point and it is usually a coin or zip toggle. Split plastic fan – not unknown.There ain`t that much to `em is there? Why not have a look yourself OR you could at least look up the model number and product code number and go to Zanussi UK spares site that will give you the proper part numbers and line drawings to locate parts and the price of the parts; it t`aint difficult so long as you know what you want and turn the power off whilst fettling around.
I myself do not know of any repair bods in the Coventry area.Very similar model to my brother`s long suffering machine. Yep that`ll be a condenser blockage problem which is the achillies heel of washer dryers (well, that is one of them!). The condenser chamber is that semi transparent plastic fantastic affair moulding underneath the aluminium heater/fan manifold (which needs to be removed too) that runs around to the rear of the tank and is not consumer friendly to remove and clean out and if you refit it badly you get a leak / flood with the pcboard very close by so any cock-ups can be a nuked machine. If your are unsure what the devil I`m on about Google this part number C00255440 (based on your info – there maybe several designs based on the serial codes – but which should at least produce a picture. Anyway, under normal circumstances you never need to buy a replacement you just simply wash them out. If you get that far ( and I really would advise, as per does Dave, that a technician sorts you out thus saving a watery disaster) do not forget to clean the moulding`s dryer metal disc lint filter (C00143949) that gets its tiny holes blocked up too of course.
Some of the following info might be out of date. Well the vented tumble dryers ( like everything else) are not all the same quality nor the same have the same back-up. The question really is what to avoid some of which have already been mentioned but I`ll add to the list: Bush. Turkish. Cheap, do dry fairly well but u/g (under guarantee) service is poor out of u/g expensive and even poorer on parts availability; like none listed poor!. Bosch vented if still available – strange cutting out faults in my experience, service u/g much better spares available ok but not cheap e.g. if front stat fails have to buy the whole front drum support – ridiculously expensive. Curry`s Logik. Very popular. Chinese. Can be seen under many brand names. As a curry`s logik you can get the spare parts though SOME of those parts are not cheap for what they are and no pattern parts available as far as known. Since can be bought under various brand names beware of spares availability, just because you can get under a /logik brand does not mean you can get any parts under the ElectriQ brand for instance or Montpellier (that one usually gets a 2 year warranty) AND what is a downer too is there is no official X referencing either as to what is really what and so any difference in spares costs on the whims of the various importers. The facia panels differ between these differing brands but the filter behind the door does not -that is how you can tell they are the same machines! White Knight – not produced in normal washing machine sizes as UK company sold out (in so many other ways) to the Turks which makes a change as it is usually the Chinks !.
My own view is, if in your shoes, would be to get a Zanussi vented if they still do them. So long as things haven`t changed Zanussi could be vented from three positions: middle rear i.e. the back, l/h/s rear side and r/h/s rear side so might be handy to know that. Spares ok u/g ok service. OR a Beko vented: spares fine, easy to work on too and inexpensive spares too, made in Turkey or China.
Programme /timer. would always try to get an electromechanical timer rather than pcboard but because they were really useful and reliable you may have trouble getting one(!) except for Indesit but then the rear bearing is a stupid fast wearing design issue which exists BUT that may now have been changed to the condenser t/dryer set up in which the bearing would last (due to the tension in the belt being taken via a jockey pulley rather than directly but you would have to check that if at all possible).
Anything genuinely British available?…..Very doubtful and if there was would be expensive for no real gain as parts would be bought in i.e. like Whirlpool USA = made in stars and stripes flag waving USA except the electrical gubbins are imported from…., you guessed it….China.
Haier = Chinese, Hisense = Chinese, Gorenje = Chinese owned. Samsung Korean, but could be made in Poland ( that might be the washing machines only?) or China, Upper range stuff S Korean.Can you see a certain pattern emerging here?
Welcome to the crazy world of domestic appliance retail.
Bellybumble.
Agreed this is terrible service and it seems to be pretty obvious, from your account and based on your account, that the machines have some serious premature failure issue/s. Thanks for your post. Last time I had a look, probably March 2023, they were priced circ 600 quid at the shop I went to depending upon the model which I cannot remember but it was a cold fill only.
If you go to their own site now all are discounted. Obviously not selling or maybe something else is afoot or perhaps increased their prices for 24 hrs then reduced them, who knows all the wonders of appliance retail? See:
https://www.ebac.com/washing-machines/rangeCheck or/and replace the plug itself if a moulded one and should be a 13 amp fuse. Duff on and off switch if fitted and possible burnt wires to it – you do not give the model number, Aquarius is just a series covering loads of models. Suppressor problem or wire fallen off it are 3 good places to start. And yes if the trip pinged off is no doubt related.. plus presumably the machine`s drum is not flopping around in fresh air or was not noisy the last time u used the thing if so drum cuts through heater as the drum drops which will certainly cause the machine to go to earth and keep pinging off the trip – check the drum first before doing anything
Anything you check make the machine is unplugged !!Your pictures. Could easily be wrong here but since the stain / deposit appears to be localized this troubles me. The deposit, circled, is in the same plain as the paddle, the paddle itself is also in the same plain as where one of the three spider arms would attach to the rear of the drum. The question is: is the deposit also replicated on the other 2 areas? School of thought which could be well wrong is: the bearing oil seal is “leaking grease” then running across the spider hub then down the spider arm, running forward under the paddle on the underside of the drum and then also depositing in the only place you`ll see it at the front as circled. In other words the yuk may not be yuk in the true sense of the yuk I was on about and that it is a grease deposit. The rest of it via the pictures does not look too bad if it were normal yuk but not if it that is grease too. In other words perhaps the drum bearings are telling everyone that all will soon not be well? Is the drum on revolving sounding a trite off key? If not that is great but that does not mean that they might not be soon. Based on what I can see and so only what you show the door seal shows no sign of the classic sludge only problem it just looks normal and as one would expect on a used machine
Our water in England is treated at source / at the water works to be drinkable at the end of the tap/s. This is the same water that is also used for dishwashers and washing machines so water used for washing has been already been purified. However, at this is your point, the use of these D4 tablets to prevent any sludge (and I`m not going to repeat myself) seems like a good idea since you say it seems to work. Your previous comment on Caustic soda is spot on as that attacks aluminium….so not a good idea! Mind you people do use soda crystals which removes grease / fat deposits from pipe work (drains) but also in washing machines but that too affects aluminium but in high concentrations as opposed to the much more corrosive caustic soda.
My only problem I have with D4 tablets is their effects on aquatic life which ain`t good. So I found this and let everyone make up their own minds. Oh, and in UK 4 TUBS OF 300 TABLETS each tub is 150 quid.
https://sds.diversey.com/DirectDocumentDownloader/Document?prd=MSDS2256~~PDF~~MTR~~GB02~~BE~~
And a shorter version:
Safety Data Sheet
Suma Tab D4 Tab
SECTION 14: Transport information
Land transport (ADR/RID), Sea transport (IMDG), Air transport (ICAO-TI / IATA-DGR)
14.1 UN number or ID number: 3077
14.2 UN proper shipping name:
14.3 Transport hazard class(es):
Transport hazard class (and subsidiary risks): 9
14.4 Packing group: III
14.5 Environmental hazards:
Environmentally hazardous: Yes
Marine pollutant: Yes
14.6 Special precautions for user:
Diversey does not recommend to transport this product by means of sea container.
Diversey does not recommend to transport this product by air.
14.7 Maritime transport in bulk according to IMO instruments: The product is not transported in bulk tankers.“That brown stuff is the thing to remove. But we can’t see it. Maybe smell.” Look between the back of the door seal and front of the silver drum “gap”. If no yuk there then you probably do not have that issue anywhere else.
“That is what Aquasoftna contains.” It’s just citric acid. Yes I know, that is the point = its a descaler not a cleaner.
“Do you do an extra rinse cycle after or just run it at the hottest temperature and are done?” 60 degrees to really hot and let the machine go start to end.
Amount of multipurpose lemon liquid Flash to use = 2 of its blue screw cap`s worth only. This will froth in soft water (additional point and if so you wouldn`t have the lime problem anyway but you can still have the sludge) badly so would, from my own experience on my old machine, use 2 caps worth with hard water and 1 if you have soft water otherwise you could end up with a load of froth coming out of the dispenser! When the machine gets to hot temperature the froth tends to subside somewhat.
NOTE. Liquid lemon Flash can affect aluminum but I never got a problem until the spider broke BUT whether using my concoction caused it we will never know. Though since I used this method every 8 to 10 weeks (except for when I forgot) for 18 years I doubt that it did least in the very low diluted concentrations used ! Or maybe I just got lucky – there was only me using it for about 12 years of that time.
“The closest I get to all-purpose floor cleaners is Lysol” As far as I can tell it is the equivalent stuff under an Indian brand.The suggestion is based soley on my experience on my own machine whatever you do or do not do is of course down to your judgement.
If in doubt do not do the suggestion and do your own thing by buying Dr Beckman or something similar.Since you appear to be from far off distant lands (which you did not say) is your machine a top loader or a front loader?? If a top loader or twin tub disregard everything I have written except for the descaler. However, the descaler mentioned is not recommended for machines with glass enamel tanks – the enamel tank`ed machine (rather than plastic such as with my old Hotpoint WM56 machine), whether front loading or twin tubs of old tended to use a calcuim based glass enamel and that is why.
Aluminum alloy: there are around 8 types that could be used in a washing machine as far as I know for use as material for spiders ( It will be doubtful that it would be the best used in a washing machine but some might / are better than others but then there is no known numbers to back this up with i.e. a wonderous success rate or otherwise). There is a video with some chap moaning and groaning with a Samsung that is not very old with a totally rotted out spider so unless he did something crazy or was just unlucky I can only put that down one down to poor material used as he himself concluded.
As for finding out X brands alloy grade / type used I never asked any manufacturer because I think it would have been a waste of time expecting a reply; it is bad enough getting a reply to something you would expect a reply to. In the trade we are part fitters: spider duff? We buy a new spider and fit the damn thing, we make nothing ourselves and rely upon what we get / ordered. But any information that we learn from the job or stumble upon such as seemingly common failure traits we can mention and that is all you should expect. I do not know if any of us have a PHD in chemistry, it would, by using common sense ( a rare thing in C21st), think that as very doubtful! As for casually having access to LA-ICP-MS ( laser ablation inductive couple plasma mass spectroscopy) testing machine in the back of the van to test offending items = do not make me laugh!!“These days electronic touchpanels are likely to give trouble within five years”. Well some of them do, others can last ages between 2 machines both make X and same model Y. But in the general run of things your not far off being spot on due to one reason or another.
Conclusion: you can only do so much! My present machine says do not put/use anything on the drum clean programme so I don`t. When I have used the drum clean programme there is a fair amount of froth from soap deposits when I have used the machine on low temperatures (which is not a clever thing to do all the time….which I do not do all the time) this could mean therefore I am putting too much powder deteregent in the machine. Using too much detergent is no a good idea so I am going to have to watch it – I moved from a hard water area of UK to a soft water area so old habits die hard.Based on the following before we start. Chinese made, looks as though its a discontinued model, only found a door seal and no other parts listed which gives the impression it was not imported for very long – all cheery stuff and all pretty typical so completely in the dark on this one. Could well be very similar to the 10kg load Bush model wmsaex1016w which is also Chinese and also with no parts listed so no help there!!
Ok, based on not much info available. What follows is what you can look for no matter how daft it sounds (I`ve got no part pictures no nothing / sod all other than a picture of a door seal) 1) do you have soft water? = over frothing 2) you say it leaks from a breather which presumably is part of the soap dispenser`s moulding (so with NO additional hose from the dispenser to the top of the tank) so check the hose from the dispenser to the tank, remove the draw – anything blocking it and are the water spray holes all clear? Trapped piece of cloth where the dispenser hose joins tank is not overly common – this gives you either a blockage and hence a flooding leak everytime it fills OR the much more subtle part blockage fault of a “vaccum” fill leak where the machine fills ok until a fill further on in the cycle, and so the machine has pumped out then refills, but the air cannot get out of the tank causing the incoming water to leak out of the dispenser since it cannot go elsewhere – a slim possibility admittedly. Had that one a few times but on old machines which yours` isn`t.
3) the pump filter is part blocked.OR the sump hose – part blockage by a sock where hose joins to bottom of tank which would give you poor pump out and a similar effect due to point 4 since I am prsuming the air trap chamber is also part of the sump hose
4) the pressure switch hose has a fine split/ tiny hole this causes the machine to over fill by filling up the whole drum with the flooding outcome via the dispenser BUT you can also get the split where this thin hose joins to the pressure switch so as the machine fills, and the whole tank sinks down due to weight on the suspension springs, that the hose pinches up the split and the water does turn off the filling but at increased height – rare but not unkown based on my own experience on Chinese and Korean made stuff. Seems to happen with horizontal mounted pressure switchs.
So some Pointers to check.Forget the test mode for a minute and stick the macxhine on a fairly quick programme with nothing in the machine then test it. If the machine spins but does not properly with a normal load size you either have a pump semi blockage, your original load was out of balance – big duvet sheet rolled into a ball or the pcboard is sensing that when it isn`t rolled up into a ball and the pcb is toast or the water level is far too high and the machine times out – usually an air trap blockage or a pin prick split in the pressure switch thin hose – usually a tiny spllt where pushed onto the pressure switch. All as a rough guess.
Looking at the safety data sheet of Dr.Beckman’s ‘Service it’ product, it has the same ingredients as the bosch washing machine cleaner……………Not at all surprised!
Most descalers will use Citric acid. Mainly because all spiders (the drum supports) are an aluminium alloy on all washing machines
One word of warning: no matter what you use it does not change the fact that old age use can damage the spider in anycase. A thin coating of snowy white lime is fine whereas a thick coating is troublesome whereas a more commonly seen covering of sloshy smelling usually a light/mid brown coloured layer is bad news that has in itself nothing to do with limescale but is more to do with deposits of, well basically, crap, detergent and dirt sludge – this is the stuff that rots out the spider due to attracting bacteria causing a rotted and so cracked spider arm/s which is very common these days of” you can save save money by using low low temperatures all the time” what they do not tell you is the end result that I have just told you!
The descaler I used was Aqua Softna descaler, the liquid lemon flash detergent acted as the sludge removing element effort in the mix. That worked for 20 years I had it, 2 years by a relative before hand, and yes the spider did crack on mine at 18 years old – found and checked me records – still not a bad run as most spiders on these things commonly were toast at under 8 years old.
Plus you can also get stuffed by too much detergent being used. Always seemed more common when using liquid detergents at low temps.Yes you replaced the repair kit which often doesn`t! Best thing to do is to change the whole dispenser unit. Your model number is not recognised so I think your /01 is in fact a /07 so if so you need version 1 dispenser = part 00263088 a whopping price listed at £85.46 ! If you do not want to do that then you are going to have to take the door front off anycase, have a look at the levers and that brick red solenoid – if the push rod bit is out that`s why, it has stuck, you can buy that and the other associated parts separate from the whole dispenser unit but out in the field as a repair bod you would change the complete unit. You might be able to get that part cheaper, think there was a spares importer importing directly from the manufacturer where Bosch buys that part at half price but I could be wrong but worth checking. @ £85.46 it is a rip off.
