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Great! Watch the screw that I mentioned though but you can get around that by a bit of jiggery pokery with the original anchor spring thus avoiding undoing that screw which does not want to play ball. Can`t remember at all what I did at the time and if the heater wires have to be modified I can`t remember that either.
Any disaster can occur with these Bosch contraptions! Difficult to work on too to add to the head banging experience – only Germany could design these for revenge purposes!.
You`ll have to turn the power off and remove the door panel and the plastic plinth to get at the galvanized panel 2 screws to see/get at the gubbins BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THAT CHECK 1) AS BELOW FIRST. Based on what you`ve done so far based on “pipeS, so in the plural” so presume you know how to take these things to pieces anyway. Check the simple stuff first. Refering to the Bosch uk online spares site – parts line drawings on the 4th page & I`m refering to the item number not a part number. 1) Check that the drain pump chamber cover is actually properly clipped in; 0434 – that`s the most usual problem. 2)Check the one way non return valve 0431 isn`t blocked up, this is hidden in the sumps pump exit nozzle where the semi transparent pipe joins (that then goes to the fill matrix / pump out matrix unit l/h/s of the machine that area can block up as well), can catch the unwary out, a bugger to get at to, not that common so probably not that. 3)Check the drain pump BUT you have to bail the machine out first- this twists off the sump so you can check for foreign objects, can be a fiddle to refit 0455 &; probably will not be that; DO NOT TEST this with a mains test lead just in case you are tempted! MAKE SURE you sponge any spilt water from off the base from when the pump was removed. 4) Could even be pcboard (hopefully not for your sake and you cannot test it anyhow but you could see if water has not dripped on it – if your tank base – where the filters are – is a plastic base too the plastic tank warps and allows seepage to fall over onto the below pcb fitted rear right – clever it is not!) on page 5 item 0570If you find it is 1) do that and touch nothing else.
Probably one half of the double socket is nuked no harm in visually having a damn good look with the power off!. Pretty common with tumble dryers used to get this a lot and the actual plug doesn`t always give you a clue to that either.
In case you cannot buy that little part from the joys of Miele and have to buy the whole condenser at a robbery price I would say to you is to do the obvious and try it and so long as the condenser seal is clean and ok it should still lock ok and thus thou shall escape severe financial ruin.
must be a lucky site it tries its best!
Just a general note on T Bendix / aka a Zanussi. Actually screws themselves usually get caught between the drum and the front of the tank beause the rear of the door seal droops making a larger gap than is usual allowing an easy access of foreign undesirable `orrible objects to fall through that gap and get trapped on a front drum seam rubbing on the inside (obviously) front half of the plastic tank with rather a noisy outcome or if a long term resident screw a very much wet outcome as the metal screw cuts throgh the plastic tank.with a less than hilarious catastrophic moist results!!Update 2 July 2023: well that model TCL ff0814wc0uk was short lived so must`ve been far too reliable for UK market (can`t possibily have that!) and so according to Marks Electrical appears to have now become obsolete / a discontinued model and if that is true that would be typical of Chinese imported stuff – importers drop you in the clag at the drop of a hat without any warning and leave you floundering around for future spares which I notice you can get though their thin on the ground, trouble is those spares are around twice the price of Bosch spares but with the disadvantage of no non genuine parts listed.
if you want to use a 55 or 65 degree programme that should be fine short term to long term.
Dishwasher cleaners ( whilst using either temperatures as above) on a Bosch will only make the areas you see look clean but would have a minimal effect on the grease / general deposit build up within some internal pipe work and the fill matrix.
Your answer to the washing machine powder left overs to mix within your new box of powder should not be a problem, so yes you can, same goes for the liquid to liquid. I`ve never had a problem so I cannot see why you should get problems either.Hi. This model is really a rebadged Smeg (but you can get it under other labelled brands to add to the fun / confusion!).
I had this problem once (ages ago on a customers machine) and yes all the info (not much) points to the door lock except when it isn`t that!.If you look up any parts there are various versions of your model so it is based on the model you gave AND the long number beginning with 85.Turn power off, pull the machine out, remove the top. The aluminium dryer heater “box” ( called the manifold) is the part you are looking for and it`ll be smack in front of you running front to back more or less the depth of the machine. The heater wires are at the back of this box. BEFORE you do anything else take a photo or / and draw out which wires go where, then pull all the 3 or 4 wires off the heaters` terminals and isolate the tags as need be with tape.
Refit the lid for safty reasons rehook-up any pipe work you may or may have had to disconnect to pull the thing out and and then try the machine on a normal wash programme to see if it completes the whole cycle wash / rinses/ spin.Pitfalls (if I`m on the right track here). This bit is from memory only: the cause of the problem is the dryer heater is going to earth which messes with the electronics and manifests itself as E13 which leads, as one would expect, to buying a new lock which does not cure the problem or various web sites indicating that the very expensive pcb has jacked when it hasn`t so to make it a washer and dryer again you have to buy a new heater but before buying that:
The main problem here is that there is a steel screw you have to remove once u have the lid part off the manifold box in order to get the heater out – that screw will probably be seized solid due to alumimum corrosion and heat So before buying anything see if that screw comes out first if it doesn`t do not whack with an impact screw driver as the alluminum is liable to crack. All parts on these things are expensive and some, actually a fair number, will be obsolete especially anything useful!!
Also I seem to remember that there was some sort of wiring modification from a 4 wire to a 3 wire to the heater because the original one went obsolete…. could well be wrong there so the important thing is to match your old element up to a sellers photo ad to make sure they are the same because you might not get an instruction sheet. That is why you also note which wires go where before you pull the wires off.
Try this sites spares dept for a match or any further info on the part.
.Got the wrong end if the stick the last time.
Since the replacement brushes were new (A)presuming they are the right ones i.e the running face are at the same angle as per your original set therefore BOTH RUNNING FACES are facing either to the left or facing right – get this bit wrong, because you got the wrong set (what is the part number you ordered these on? and the machines product code as read off the label on the machine, begins with a prod code 9………../..) = your are asking for trouble = would make a god awful clicking noises even if the motor worked at all which you do not mention so presume you do not have that problem at all) based on that the brushes are correct and since you fitted them correctly and it now spins, at least empty, but with lots of sparking the only conclusion is you have a nuked armature from when the previous brush failed, hence now it sparks but the question is how much sparks since all carbon brushes spark just like a Guy Fawkes night sparkler! So you say you get no `orrible noises on spin so that is good so that should discount (A) BUT if you get LOTS of blue and green flashing lights from the motor it will either, as Electrofix mentions, the running face of each or just one brush needs, as he suggests, to be very gently refaced though you might, to be frank, be too late. So just because you bought a new set of brushes to cure the original problem does not mean an instant cure with this new set if the armature is faulty / worn/whatever..And if so they tend to visually on the commutator segments or some of the segments an electrical glazed look about them due to the heat as opposed to an even matt black look which usually means you will get away with it with no severe sparks. In severe cases the segments are brutally damaged and if so it is plainly obvious, makes one hell of a racket if any movement in which = a new motor or THE CORRECT second hand one and NOT just so happens a second hand motor from any old Zanussi.
“It was the one brush that wasn’t even touching the armature that I believe started all this, but it always spun the clothes properly” That is because it was jammed as you correctly said ( usually it is due to heat) meaning either the original brush just split and jammed because it got bored of life or the armature was the main culprit and due to sparking was the cause of the old brush jamming in the first place not necessarily the former – but you`ll never know let alone prove that all you can know is the brush jammed cause it split. If a jammed or near worn out brush jams very very close to the armature, as is most common, the power jumps through air or jumps through carbon dust but should, if that is the case, have been sounding a trite off key and makes a crackling noise (well, normally that would be the case but not always to be fair) until its final demise = ending up doing nothing = no motor action at all and if unlucky when a new set is fitted it is too late = nuked armature = new motor.
Use the machine with an iffy sparky motor and you stand a bloody good chance it`ll take out the main pcboard.
So have a good look at the motor because nothing else can cause a motor to spark badly other than the motor itself OR water dripping on it; if the latter you will see water staining.
Hopefully got the right end of the stick this time.If not a blockage, which I doubt it is because it was blowing hot air to start with, have a look on the pcboard for a relay unsoldered leg. Could also be a sensor. Bit in the dark here because your model I cannot actually find listed but do know it will be similar if not the same to the Currys Logik version. Could even be the red button reset stat failure – so you will need a test meter, or the heater itself. If the large round heater (which it probably is fitted with) they are well known for failing but usually once nuked stay nuked but I suppose it could have a hotspot split ( what can happen with cooker elements which is very common) = they still work then fail when get hot but then soon fail forever and a day but a visual swelling along a length (about 2″) of the heater reviels the problem.
As already mentioned “avoid this”, and this is a warning to others which few will ever take notice basing it on: “it always happens to everyone else but not me” attitude and then when it jacks or parts are elusive then start whinging. Argos takes the biscuit here ( or, rather takes the p*ss) by importing this cheaply made stuff but often seems not to have the parts (when you have sussed out what part it needs that is!) and those part/s that are listed it is often a wait (so not in stock) and expensive for what it is. Argos spares own site is just a rehash of Partmaster- same shower
Before you give up have at good look around, take the thing to pieces you might find out what is the problem is – perhaps a burnt wire on a stat but once you know that obviously you know what you are looking for.
There is nothing wrong necessarily with cheap goods what is wrong however is importing the stuff without any proper back up and with expensive parts to add insult to injury.
Think your model MIGHT have been a recall model so I best check that too….just did for you and yes it under a safety recall so look it up and check the code 5480948 matches what your code is as read off the sticker on the machine.So we know that after the brushes were replaced on the wash cycle the drum now revolves c/wise and anti/c/wise as it should. We know that it also pumps out the water. But still will not spin properly / even anything remotely approaching a decent spin speed.
Well since the motor does work on wash i.e. turns c/wise and turns anti c/wise and tries to get up to a spin speed but fails to do so. You changed the pcb (973914530218002 – r/h/s at the top) and it has not made any positive improvement.
Ok what I think might have happened is the pressure switch`s air chamber is part blocked up and this will give you: 1) a higher water level than is usual so check this first against the height of the door glass so water level 5 to 7, 8 to 4, 9 to 3 as ref a clock face this means the machine will still work until 2) the water is pumped out = if too much water to pump out the machine runs out of time = no spin until that drains BUT 3) the air compressed in the air trap is not escaping (due to blockage) which = the pressure switch ( abev swt) will not “click out”*** = will not allow the machine to spin (the 200 rpm is really, I suspect, the distribution speed – pre spin speed) = so you get no spin.
Turn power off, lid off, r/h/side there is the p/switch which has a thin black pipe that disappears down underneath or near underneath the tank to the air chamber (part 1327360002) this area is where it COULD be blocked up hence the problem BUT before you do anything your best bet is to remove the thin black p/swt pipe from the p/swt and blow through the pipe – if you can easily blow through it I am wrong, if you can almost blow through it is part blocked and we`re on the right track – take a gob full of water and blow that down the tube and try to clear the blockage if not it is a case of dismantling the machine…..yet again or working on it from underneath if possible. ****WHAT YOU DO NOT DO is blow into the actural p/swt itself. These wretched modern p/swts do not mechanically click like the old fashion ones – It should automatically reset itself to zero unless of course the swt itself is naff but there is no meaningful test you can do other than replace the part and try again so hopefully it might be just a blockage of soap / sludge which is common on older machines like yours`!
In other words you have 2 faults running in parallel cetaininly not unkown. I had a machine with 4 electrical disasters once that took some figuring out and 3 bowl fulls of St Bruno.
