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I think, and this is a gut feeling (which could be well wrong) that IF the wiring is ok and IF the actual dryer element or wash element are NOT to earth that it would be a pcb fault. Which of the two different elements is your machine fitted with: 1 was a spiral, part number C00080765 and the latter type wasn`t spiral, part number C00268319? Rust deposit on the element, in itself, does not prove it is duff but a matt coloured or rusty swelling or/and a longitudinal split does. = you would also still get a meter reading – element tag to tag but you would to varing degrees also get an earth reading = tag to an earth point e.g. the aluminium alloy heater container so maybe test for that too by putting what meter you have on highest ohms reading and see if the needle or display actually picks something up – you would need a 500 volt producing dc megger rather than an ordinary test meter but you might get lucky wioth whatever you have to prove the point. Testing the machine with the heater wires removed and taped to insulate will just throw up another error code. There was years ago a new version of the thermistor you recently bought = part number C00290251 because the original gave grief but they do look very slightly different when compared to each other.
So as a rough guess, all that above being well, I think it is probably a switching relay on the pcboard. What, if you are lucky, are looking for is a duff relay leg soldering joint which would be obvious and with a soldering iron/ solder DIY fixable. BUT if unlucky it could be anything on the board such are the evils and joys of electronics.Take a photo befor moving off any wiring connectors.
PCB changing for customers and trade bods without the manufacturers tools. As someone touched on already you would have to buy at great expense a new pcb. You would also have to buy a smart card and a smart card reader The pcb is based on your exact model and its industrial and serial code too so cannot tell you how much if you went down that route but = lots. The smart arse card is about 25 quid and the card reader about 190 quid ! i.e. they have customers caught by the short ones when out of the X number of years free parts warranty early stuff 5 years latter stuff 10 years.Well what follows might just be purely academic. Yes it is possible that within 2 mere years your bearing spider has cracked but in that time span that would be a bit unusual even for a Hotpoint. What sometimes happens is the actual plastic / alloy tube cracks within the rear of the tank unit though when you look behind the rear panel then drum pulley you don`t actually see anything is wrong visually.
Your Hotpoint should be under a 10 year parts warranty and you should have registered the purchase so you should be on their computer. All being well you just get charged the price of their labour = a “freebee” tank. If you actually bought the tank to DIY expecting to save some spons you probably won`t as the tank is much more than their labour charge: labour should be 126 quid but the tank is listed on their spares site for both 2 versions of your model at…..wait for it!….a rip off .£238.99 via Hotpoints own site so not sure where you got £190 from. Online part number was J00726133 but has been replaced to J00754747 ….yes I know that does not make much sense but it does when the tank costs them about £25 and they get their foot in the door to flog you an extended warranty ! Hotpoints spare parts website is not that easy to use. If you do phone them you`ll need that model number an the numbers beginning with 7699916101032 or ending in 320. A racket……hmm, no comment; OK of course it bloody well is. The only good thing is the price if in EU is even more expensive!Other brands of machines can last longer but to be frank most stuff is crap now and has been for years probably since 2005 ( and that is being generous) it has just reached an even more dire situation now. If it isn`t drum bearing failure, pcboard failure or something else failure or surprisingly, no problem at all that is until there is one and then there are no spares are available at all or if there are they are a rip off price and few listed just before that particular model goes obsolete after 6 months e.g TCL machines and many other off beat brands and that is how they will get around the spirit of the ruling. The only machine I think I would buy is an Ebac, except I cannot presently afford one, mainly because I think the managing director is OK no nonsense kinda bloke giving 7 years parts and labour which is a pretty good deal.
By the way The Right To Repair act is complete bollocks and few are abiding by the rules of the game one way or the other until some company gets caught by the short ones, does not bribe as well as they should, and is therefore dragged before the courts found guilty then hung and coated in tar then gibbeted (sadly that is somewhat unlikely!) and so until then it is a manufacturers/ importers free for all at the publics expense because they know that you will not / cannot do anything about it.
Manufacturers / importers mantra: we`re Green, Oh so terribly Green, I mean just look how green we actually are, ………it`s a load of corporate greenwashing guff.
“Thank you! These are very helpful insights – particularly as I did not know domestic machines are not intended for daily use!”
That is, as you know, is not what he meant! What it boils down to is you can do anything you want…..just expect problems if the machine is deemed overly used despite what kriptonite is bounded about to the sales / manufacturers contrary. But your last paragraph is spot on.
If you have wooden floors, but especially suspended wooden floors avoid any machine with a direct drive motor, e.g. Lg and some Samsungs (and others) unless you want the thing to wiggle forward caused by an inbalanced rotor = something that spins- (same effect as a derestricted from 28mph to a more respectful 40 mph Tomos moped with the out of balance centrifugal clutch = ok at the designed 30 but not good at 40+! (unless you machine the outside of the auto clutch basket on a lathe to balance the thing).
Yep, Ebac do not make intergrated machines having very good sense.
I suppose you could go for the Neff intergrated w/dryer BUT in my experience the drum bearings are a weak point which costs a packet when they fail = had several screw-up at 4 to 4.5 years old.
Washer dryers that are well known to be varying degrees of citrus specials are in my opinion: Hoover, Candy, Hotpoint, Indesit, AEG to a lesser degree. Zanussi, Bosch, Neff and Siemens. Everything else MIGHT be better BUT beware of spare parts/after market service = no spares, prematually gone obsolete spares*****, or a long wait or/ and expensive rip off parts costs (well, more robbery than is normal !) Chinese imports (e.g. a common problem with the FREE standing Siemens w/dryer which is wholly Chinese made is the 3 way inlet valve….about 85 quid in UK or if willing to wait 3 weeks £12 -£18 from mainland China!!! = rip off UK.)
Shame you went for intergrated though you probably would not be much better off with free standing either as a washer dryer.
The answer to you question is that there is no real answer to your question.
****** take the right to repair act of parts availability for 10 years with a pinch of salt least without a fight and /or being ripped off.
You might want to repair your old machine instead if it is possible ref cost and wait for better times ahead or though I personally would not bank on that.
VZug are a Swiss company with costs to match of which little is known or rather if it screws up with all the parts companies I have dealings with not a single part is listed = you are at their mercy on prices = not a good position to be in.well I suppose if the springs were miss set on the top of the chassis the door seal would look odd / misaligned i.e. the tank relative to the front chassis would be on the twist? Still could be duff suspension legs since they are not that good. Front weights, from memory, are glued on or if not you cannot miss fit so it isn`t that. The worst it could be, which is really bad news, is if one of the suspension plastic tank mountings has sheard – let`s hope it isn`t that! You just have to visually check
“more rarely can be a duff water pressure switch stuck on emergency pump out” This is where the pressure switch clicks once but there is a high pressure switch, a stage 2, built in to the same pressure switch that if triggered turn off the valve and turns on the pump. So just maybe the pressure switch is nuked
water level about 1/2″ above bottom of drum. Is that too low. Yes far too low. Should be the level switch faulty but also check the air trap chamber for gunge before buying anything and yes gunge in the air trap normally causes the opposite of over filling but worth checking first.
“cost circa £200 with no guarantee of solving the problem unless you paid more for parts” WHAT! 200 quid plus cost of any parts, that is a rip off even by this trade`s standards. Hisense spares are by the way expensive as are TCL spares and the Chinese made free standing washer dryer sold as a Siemens.
Washer dryers, in general, and used as a washer dryer are notorious for drying problems so if it is not one thing, next it is another. So we`ll have a look at the symptons / causes and possible cures.
1) clothes come out hot and steamy and when they cool down just ending up warm and soggy. Could be a solenoid valve problem – the dryer`s water valve`s coil usually just goes open circuit i.e. a break in its coil. This can happen at anytime or may never be a problem ever. If goes o/circuit the machine will not take in cold water to condense the steam ( the fan and heating element are obviously working) in the plastic condenser chamber in other words the fan is blowing steam all the time to either a fault code stopping the machine or you find out the problem at the end. Which leads us on to problem 2) hot and steamy clothes yet again but for another reason: a condenser blockage which is very common on well used machines. This is a plastic chamber though some use a tank moulding as the condenser (e.g. Hoover and Candy) which get blocked up with lint – soggy fluff – which stops the hot air from circulating = same outcome as 1 above = you have to physically dismantle the fan blower manifold to get at the condenser. Also note that on some machines where the bottom of the condenser attaches to the tank there can be a metal mesh screen which are well known trouble spots. 3) no heat at all: can be duff a heater – they usually go open circuit but not always, you can get the affect of still working but working poorly though the latter is not that common***, can be an over load stat clicked out due to overheating due too large a load or the fan has stopped err..fanning or due to a blockage such as point 2. 4) a temperature cycling stat has failed or the wire/s leading to it – not overly common that one.
*** The Zanussi Electrolux blank digital display no go problem that gives you the impression the digital display (actually the main board) is at fault when it uaually isn`t!. One day the display works next day it doesn`t and so the machine is a no go. This one is usually very common and concerns the dryer element going to earth. Can happen if the dryer function is used a lot or only twice a year and there is a very good chance that the house trip might not ping off. There are a possible two culprits a) the dryer element b) the over load stat ( the small stat with a reset button) to earth or both. If you do not have a megger tester so after turning the power off and pulling out the machine, removal of the work top metal plate top. If you trace the heater wires usually 2 black wires and 2 white wires from the rear of the element so 2 white wires go to a connector block near the water valve – disconnect that c/block and the double black wires go to the over load stat so disconnect that too. Then turn on the power to machine, set to any programme, suggest spin, and the display should come back to life. If not, power off and disconnect the single white wire off the o/load stat and try again, if now ok you`ll either need the dryer element only or / and the o/load stat. I used to change both watch you don`t lose the rubber o ring seal on the o/load stat! All you then have to do is decide to leave as is with the wires disconnected and use as a washing machine only or buy the required heater or o/load or preferably both. I should think Zanussi and Co have done a roaring trade in pcboard sales at 160 quid a shot which will not cure the problem and which cannot be returned either so this is all worth knowing. Other machines can suffer the same fate too.Motor plug not connected perhaps to motor?. If,since it did work before doing the bearings, you`d have to presume something removed when bearings changed has not been reconnected such as mains suppressor wires OR a bad luck fluke with a failed part such as the expensive pcb which is not that common so not sure what was disconnected – check the grey 3 wire connector block beteen the main board and the digital display board.
Cancel the existing programme. If it has a quick wash, reset the machine to that. Sequence on starting (if it will) is makes a pumping out noise – pump faults very common on any dishwasher usually jammed. Then fills with water, then wash motor turns on, soap dispenser opens, heater on……….
On a intial reset the pump should come on and if it does not there is a very subdued hum if so that is the problem which does not surprise me. However if it does pump out any existing water it then fills. If no fill it will hum or buzz as the solenoid fill valve is hunting for water that aint there = tap off, kinked hose or duff valve or duff water fill chamber blockage due to lime. If it does fill and fills to a normal level but the wash motor does not start up it can be the impellor flow meter that is duff (part 1760900100 so you can identify it) this part counts the flow of incoming water over time, when it is the right time = you have the right amount of wash water = the wash motor is switched on (in reality it happens a bit before that). If you hear a hum at that point the wash motor is most likley duff (and seized) OR if no hum the yellow wire (?from memory) in the door loom is broken where the loom goes at the bottom of the door into the underneath gumbins part of the dishwasher to the wash motor If you get this far and the wash motor is washing the soap dispenser should open after 5 mins approx and the the heater ( that is the metal tube thing as viewed from the r/h/s cover removed underneath ) comes on – very common failure point the heater tube part number18888150100 if the heater does not heat it will wash forever or until the machine senses it ain`t working = open circuit heater rarely is it the pcb end. They can be a bit of a bugger to work on like all dishwashers! But this is the general approach as to how to go about things. Best of luck. Any testing of the machine step by step functions as described you can do with the panels off but make sure you test it running alone as the machine will be on live, so: no lunatic kids running about and no dumb cats/dogs about – just friendly advice before it is too late! AND turn the machine off at the plug when …if… you discover the fault to inspect further.Drain pump jammed or broken is common, Valve open circuit is uncommon, flow meter counter failure is uncommon, l/s/side water fill chamber blockage if in hard water are inceasingly common = stops the machine from filling, wash motor seized not unknown, broken wires behind the door panel fairly common, heater failure common (if in hard water area).
suddenly started working fine again but not sure why. Well that might be dependent upon the load wieght or no weight in it when you tested it. I have never worked on a ISE. Long shot is a faulty capacitor on the motor control board – look for domed capacitor top although could be an undomed one that is still a duffy. In the old pre 1980s days where you had an ordinary induction motor run via a 16 or 18 or 20 /22 uf capacitor (no pcboards) if the cap died you got the same effect = the machine either sat there looking sad or sometimes it would turn the drum but with very small loads only (2 pairs of undies and a pair of socks) but anything classed as a normal load it would either move only for .25 of second or do bugger all. It baisically is how a lot of modern Bosch w/m fail – motor control pcb.OR with Lg the Hall sensor fails instead of the pcb (which is rather nice since that is a 20 quid part or less rather than 160`ish quid if it were a Bosch). As for ISE pcb you`d have to ask if it is still available thought they went bust (or just stopped making them) some years ago??
PS also some Haier and other Chinese made machines had /have an impregnated chemical in the door seal rubber in an attempt to prevent rubber mould……….once again see Instruction booklet.
Nothing is straight forward anymore in a “new and improved” C21st.Dr Beckmann would be ok, Bosch`s own should be fine too IMO, Take your pick.
I used to use in my 22 year old Hotpoint a mixture of liquid lemon Flash (2 cap fulls) with a descaler (hard water area) where I used to live. Apparently the old machine is still going since I left it there for the new owners to tied them over. Note though some of the newer machine recommend that you use nothing because the dedicated drum clean programmes do mini spins with the water as part of the process so if anything was to froth it might froth too much!!! If you think you are in that boat best check with your “destruction booklet” first.There are cheap replacement water inlet valves out there but I would not advise buying them as the quality is not very high and water bleeding through the valve is a typical problem with those. The Hotpoint genuine valves are a higher spec.
Just a general note to owners` of whatever machine you own: if a valve is going to screw-up it will typically do so whilst you are away on a summer holiday so turn that tap off before you push off otherwise you can come home to a massive flood…..a moist experience you don`t want!So the tranny screws were not removed. Well you are not the first nor will you be the last. Good job you checked that, AEG not a cheap machine to screw up, a machine you certainly do not want the plastic tank to be split on you should it have been ignored.
All the best.That should be the bracket which has a long threaded screw with a rubber bung that is fitted usually on l/h/side at the top rear of the machine that also is anchorage for the sheet metal work top. That is fitted and as the machine is gently pushed back you alter the thread so that it clears the underside of the wood / mable kitchen work top by around a clearance of 1 to 2 cms – it will be best to leave it with 1cm from touching the underside of the work top. The whole point is to stop the machine from tipping forward should children doing something stupid ( surely not! ) like standing on the door and has nothing to do with vibration ( so long as the 8mm screw is still screwed in to hold the lid!
Are you 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure you removed all the transit screws at the back? Are you sure the machine sits solidly squarely on the floor? Are you sure there is no packing under the machine although these things usually have a base? All will cause vibration. Very rare that parts of a instruction booklet is missing with any company…..strange!
