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No idea of the actual model number! So basically you have/had a leak from the soap box nozzle`s black rubber hose – so one of the valve to dispenser hoses -plus the drain pump is constantly on. Normally it is a duff triac on the printed circuit board gone wrong BUT it can be a melted inlet valve coil ( which may or may not be fairly obvious so have a good look ) so turn power off remove lid, take a note which wires go where on the valve. If a double valve you remove the 2 wires off one solenoid, isolate them with tape as necessary switch machine back on see what happens with the pump, if no joy still do the same with other solenoid and if still no joy there turn power off again, remove back panel, and disconnect the two heater wires and isolate those and then retry. If still no joy most likely the pcb which would not surprise me as Hoover pcb`s are not the greatest. If you find any blown tracks or a physically looking blown up electronic component something PROBABLY (?) caused it ( the leaking water onto something ). If the machine has blown-up components and is still under the Hoover 10 year parts warranty call them out just in case it goes pop again – the parts cost them very little but a blown board is expensive for you and will be not covered if you bought and fitted it…….TAKE NOTE!! OR, more rarely can be a duff water pressure switch stuck on emergency pump out. Without the actual model number difficult to know..Check the pcb last.
At the moment I have a big problem ( more than is usual ) with Indesit`s useless spares site. Was going to check a part that might be fitted to your model and that is a door pin striker at 12o/clock position on the door because if that piece of plastic bends ( or breaks ) the door will still shut but the plastic pin will not hit the micro switch If so it`ll give you the fault as you describe so check there but not sure if your model has that or not, think it does?
Could well be oil seal dry as a bone ( size should be 37x76x9.5 ) BUT that is pretty rare. Could equally be something to do with the door seal rubbing on the drum or the drum rubbing on the door seal due to a concentic drum but at 1 year old that too is unlikely BUT it is possible ( it is after all C21st where any disaster is conceivable!! ). Best bet is to stick bonce into the machine and look up at how the door seal is sitting relative to the drum. Ye old trick was to use washing up liquid on the door seal where it meets the drum and then revolve the drum and see if the noise disappears since the w/liquid acts as a lubricant – do not go mad with the w/liquid if you want to try this but the idea is to separate between a very similar door seal rubbing noise from an inacessable oil seal noise.
So was it a case that the old / original belt had snapped hence replacing the belt ( very common ) OR you replaced a non snapped belt because of another reason such as no drum action or the belt went stringy? So you managed to get the belt over the jockey pulley ok to make the belt tight which is a major triumph in itself OR do you hear a humming noise when you start it if so it`ll be the 8.5 uf capacitor that has snuffed it ( also common )
Do you mean a Hoover next series or the make ( or rather ) brand called Next? What is the model number in FULL?
“I just want to check if the below pic is normal for new Samsung 5 series washing machine”. Very common on any machine and you cannot blame the machine just because you have to wipe the glass and wipe the door seal of hair otherwise, especially on rinses, the seal is not made between the glass and seal lip = leaks. Well u just answered your own question anyway whether the old samsung ” coped” with the problem and this one does not or the kids were either not born at the time or had short hair or the paddle design might have changed but still not a machine fault as such.Better the hair goes there than wrapped around and under the pump impellor!
“Is this a sign of the door making weak contact with the door or are the new machine designs just not as hardy as my old (12 year old) Samusung?” weak contact = doubtful, and design is not as hardy = Well could well be but that is pure guess work whether it is or isn`t.“I have my machine apart, and the spindle on the spider is shot. From looking at it, it doesn’t seem to have a phosphorous bush where the water seal would sit, is that right (part no C00117329)?” Yes, correct.. This spider does not have a phosphor bronze bush.
“When I come to put everything back together, I’m assuming it would be advisable to apply sealant grease to the water seal. Stupid question, I know, but is it best to apply the grease to the base of the spindle so that as the water seal slips into place its suitably coated, or is it best to apply the grease to the inside of the water seal?” Well that is the expensive way using that grease, I used to use ( past tense, `cause I`m retired now ) I used white marine grease which I know worked fine because dad`s old WMA series ( same spider ) was rebuilt using that grease 14 years ago and still just fine, and yes also grease the inside of the seal on the rubber and and also grease the new drum spider ( c00117329 ) shaft too.
“I also noted that when removing the old water seal, it appeared to be “gunked” in place around its outer perimeter. Is this the case, or is the “gunk” just the product of many years of use?” The latter- always the way whether soft water or hard.
TCL washing machines 7, 8, 9,10kg load models might be useful to know about.e.g FF0814WC0UK 8kg 1400spin inverter brushless motor so should be quiet. 279 quid plus 15 quid delivery from Marks Electrical ( and Reliant and others ) 2 year parts and labour warranty ( same warranty as most Miele, Lg and Bosch ) Steam clean cycles All the model FF series appear to be the same ( except for the kg and 2 door trims ) but the chassis sizes are different in depth depending what kg capacity. No i/net enabled nonsense, ordinary soap box ( it is the TCL FP series are the ones that auto dose ).Go on the Marks Elec website which is pretty good and you can down load the instruction ( destruction? ) booklet. No idea what they are really like just yet but since I am moving house that is what I will be getting in 3 weeks time so that is a leap into the unknown. Made in an expansionist China of course ( like some Samsung – even though Samsung S Korean – and Haier ) so that might put you off, German it certainly ain`t but then it isn`t 800 quid plus.
I definitely do not think I would bother spending that kind of money repairing it the most sensible comment that I have heard in the last 5 days!
That was quick the number of replies. Anyway I`m wrong the springs are the same ( was getting confused with the WM serues that came after the 95 series ) and you would need C00168446 rather than the early set which was c00168205.
Anyway that is not the problem. Had listen to you video and I reckon that the r/h/side chassis base is cracked but of course that is a guess `cause I`m not there! Someone else has said that the tube that the bearings are fitted can be the problem and that is very true as the tube splits internally within the plastic tank so could be that too. You could try see how tight the top weight is just in case. All the best.Are they very important when it comes to the drum movement?? Well despite appearing fairly inconsequential they are important. Usually the U shaped end that engages with the chassis top hole/s shears off. Both springs for future ref you can still get both i.e. the back one and front one they are NOT the same springs!
What about those concrete blocks, particularly the one under the drum? I’ve never done anything with them. I’m assuming that the bolts need to be tight, etc., correct? Of course they need to be tight BUT unless the weight is loose leave the bolts to the concrete weight alone no point in tempting a problem you presently do not have. It is usually the top weight screws that usually need checking BUT FOR GODS SAKE do be careful weilding your 13mm socket and ratchet you do not want to shear anything.
As you can tell from the myriad of threads I’ve had here, replacing just about everything (forgot to mention that I’ve also replaced the pump), I’m trying to keep this machine going for as long as I can…..it’s a matter of principle. The new machines only have a cold intake and force you to heat the water that you use, which I disagree with, particularly as I have excellent hot water in my cylinder to use. This machine has an ‘economy wash’, which brings the hot water in from my cylinder….Anyway, thank you for your suggestions.
Very true about hot and cold fill when you do get fed up with the thing and want to buy a new machine the only hot and cold fill machine/s I have heard about are Ebac made in England so you might want to google them; about 650 quid with a 7 years parts and labour = is an awful lot of money = but also buys an awful lot of repairs to your Hotpoint which I would be inclined to carry on fixing it for as long as you can get the parts. Luckily it is Hotpoint though they have whacked up the cost of some spares to stupid levels especially for old bangers, strange mentallity in the appliance game that is for sure!!!
I admire you for keeping this machine going. Well done to you.check top springs as they break – very common but easy to sort out. check position location of the bottom suspension legs AND for any chassis cracks under / near suspension legs. Drum going slower one direction than t`other: when the machine threw a wobbler the motor whacked the side and loosened the belt so check all that and retighten belt and nut and bolt
You`ve had this thing of your in bits so many times so you know the score.
Try the aboveAnother option on a Beko theme is to go for a Zenith zdw600. This is actually a Beko with a Beko warranty. The model is simple and has no digital display £279.
. “I did enquire about glass a while back as there is a slight chip and it’s over a grand”
A ridiculous sum of money £1200. I suppose your`re expected to claim on house insurance especially if Miele are going to charge you 150 quid callout / labour for the first hour then 100 quid for the next. Bonkers indeed, crazy company?Very true. Like the old wff2000 design.
“this problem seemed to get worse when they lowered the water level, was thinking the water would act as a lubricant making the seal last longer” Well that is partly true as sort of proved by the high water level old Phillips AWB 080 series ( from failing memory! ) had a V seal and S/steel disc set up which seemed to work ok as opposed to the rather dreadful V seal s/steel disc set up that lower water level Ariston used on the Margarieta series in early 1980s. OR it could be that the 080 span and pumped out simultaneously that made it last longer whereas the Ariston did not: pumped out then spun. Interesting stuff I do recall that there was less grud in the Phillips at the time in and around the bearing hub and spider ( which might well account for spinning and pump out at the same time but I never got around to anything of a scientific investigation – me thinks its a bit late now although a modern machine`s drum clean programme would mimmick the Phillips so perhaps that is on the right tracks of thinking.
