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Re: Bosch WVD2452SGB/01 steam from dispenser.
Yes – I fitted a generic one to start with but the problem was still there; then the customer ordered a BSH one off the net and I fitted that. Both valves give the same fault. I even swapped the condenser solenoid on the gen one to see if that made a difference……which it didn’t. 👿
Foxed and foxed off with it!!
Thanks for the response Tim.
Cheers,
Steve.
Re: Bosch sgv53e03gb/50 dishwasher leak
Could be motor seals (put on long hot wash and wait); could be overfilling if the metering system and the hose to the sump on the left side is blocked, salt unit nut under cap loose, front seal between door and tub lip could be split.
A strange, difficult to find and sometimes intermittent fault is a salt grain hole. Does the customer use salt? If so take the filters out and look carefully around the edge where the stainless filter sits. Look for a small pin hole created by a single salt grain trapped between the filter and the sump pressing. If this is the problem, the leak will only manifest itself when on the hottest and longest washes.
Or you can take the side panels and door skin off, put a powerful torch inside the dishwasher with the baskets and filter out, shut the door, switch off the lights in the workshop and look for a small beam of light around the sump underneath. If the hole is on a flat piece of the stainless base, then you can drill and bolt it with a brass or stainless bolt and washers. If more than likely it is on the pressed edges, then it’s BER.HTH,
Steve.
Re: Rangemaster Integrated Dishwasher RDW6012F1 Rebadged ?
It’s a Midea – Chinese copy of an Indesit. (not a good start!)
Connect hold loads of spares for it; just omit the ‘F1’ from the end of the model number and voila! It’s easy to cross reference between Chinese clones as many parts are the same but beware; the prices can vary tremendously – pays to shop around. 😉
HTH,
Steve.
Re: bush wqp12-9348
Looks like a Midea (or Chinese Indesit clone) – try searching ‘Midea wheels’ on Connect and you should see something that will fit. There are two types of wheel – one with a ‘V’ groove with a grooved runner and the other is the normal slightly radiused wheel with the ‘cotton reel’ type side runner support wheels (as Indesit). Be careful to check as the two types are not interchangeable.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Hoover HNF7167-80 module question.
Update – fitted new board from Qualtex and all is well!
Seems as if the PCB from Connect was duff or not configured after all….Thanks for the help!
Steve.
Re: prima lpr735 error f07
It’s a Brandt in drag.
Code F07 is interlock / door catch / time out error….all door related stuff. Brandt codes are on this site.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint WTF760P
If you have changed the interlock and checked / tightened module plug connections, then it can really only be the PCB. New module will require flash write or order from EMW for plug’n’play. Board is a Mk 6 induction with the large heatsink.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: HOTPOINT tumble dryers (the belt breaking bearing munche
Martin wrote:
madangler1 wrote:
If the belt is snapping regularly its either Jamming and look for reasons for that or overloading/ misuse. Rapid bearing use is overloading.Are there any clues that would enable anyone to determine that the reason for failure is entirely due to overloading?
All too obvious with a washing machine where the load is stuck inside and the door won’t open. But how can you accuse the user of overloading a dryer once the load is removed?
Usually quite easy to spot. Customer with 9KG Hoover or Indesit washer and a 6KG drier. 😐
‘Cos nine goes into six with none left over…..remember your maths at school? :clown:Steve.
Re: Teka ADW 659F1VR02 dishwasher problem
It’s a Smeg under the skin. 😉
The air break is pushed down into the softener unit and is secured by a small plastic latch. I’ve found that if you double up / triple up the ‘O’ rings on each nozzle until the latch is really tight and just catches under the edge on the softener, then secure the latch with a zip tie to stop it jumping off. I usually use smaller thinner tight fitting ‘O’ rings behind the originals and that seems to work fine. Genuine ‘O’ rings are available from Smeg or Connect – the latter want £2.70 + VAT for each one!! Just use aftermarket ones from Machine Mart or motorists shop. Much cheaper!!
Steve.
Re: Hoover HNF7167-80 module question.
Thanks Tim – Connect won’t get stock until 26th July!! Qualtex have it in stock fortunately.
Cheers,
Steve.
Re: HOTPOINTtumble dryers (the belt breaking bearing muncher
The OEM replacement belt is now an 1860 9PHE which is 9 grooves wide, stretch up to size and ‘H’ section smaller flatter grooves. The factory fitted part was 7PHE with seven grooves.
The ‘J’ section belt grooves are completely different angles and dimensions; there are only three of them and they will not generate enough traction between belt and pulley on the already stupidly small contact area. So as much as it is great to hear alternatives to the cr@p parts that are OEM, I’m afraid I have to concur with Martin. 😐Re: Contract Van hire – any thoughts?
stratfordgirl wrote:Which works out at £3000 per year over the 3 year term, (after taking off the value of the included road tax).
Alternatively, buy a 3 year-old 60,000 mile ex-contract hire van for £6,000 and sell it after 3 years for £3,000. This works out at £1000 per year. OK, the van won’t be quite so shiny, and maintenance bills will be higher, but overall should work out far cheaper!
But if you are a sole trader and not VAT registered, you can offset the lot against your tax bill which you can’t with a capital purchase. So no, it’s not cheaper. I could pay the tax man at the end of the year and my £6000 van loan or claim the whole lot back from the taxman; I’d really rather do the latter. But if you are VAT registered, you won’t get the VAT back.
No MOT failures and full roadside recovery in the contract price; fixed predictable costs and a new turnkey vehicle every three years. Alternatively you can buy my old contract Mercedes van that I tore the nuts off for three years and inherit the problems I was starting to get if you want….
It helps to be married to an accountant….. 8)HTH,
Steve.
Re: Contract Van hire – any thoughts?
I have contract hired my vans from 2002. It makes sense as the van is ‘off the balance sheet’ so therefore does not affect your capital and any loans you may require in the future. Buying outright is going to lose you a quarter of the value in the first week of ownership; OK… you will own the van after the loan is paid off but why tie up your company’s assets in an item that depreciates so quickly? The residual value at the end of your credit payments is say a third of the new cost – but you have to sell that van to realise the capital back. Yes you get depreciation allowance on your tax but your credit payments don’t go down do they?
Contract hiring the van can be trouble free, but always get it ply lined as Mark says (saves damage to the panels)and keep it tidy and clean. Road fund licence is included for the term of the contract; not so with outright purchase. The van is warranted and MOT free as well for 3 years, so don’t bother with maintenance as wiper blades, brake pads and tyres are cheap enough. And you don’t have to use the main agent for servicing now either, so costs can be even lower. Most vans are 20,000 miles between services now anyway.
The usual gripe is “what about the damage charges?” at the end of the contract. But to be fair, if you were selling your outright owned van you would get the damage repaired to get the highest price, wouldn’t you? Or expect the hit to the amount you can sell it for. So there really is no difference in that respect.
Contract hire is basically hire and return at agreed mileages; lease purchase is lower monthly payments and a balloon payment at the end of contract to buy the van. (with the mileage and possible niggles of 3 years of motoring, why would you want that?) And the balloon payments are usually market value so you gain nothing. Unfortunately with this method you have to buy the van. PCP or personal contract purchase is more for your family car and it is really like rent to buy schemes on houses. You have to buy the van at the end of contract.I have a 3 week old Citroen Dispatch Enterprise spec long wheelbase van on contract hire with 20,000 miles per year, bluetooth, Sat nav, air con, ply lined, 3 years warranty and road tax paid, delivered to my door at £264 + VAT per month. So I just have to insure it and drive it. Contract hire is the easiest and most straightforward of the three types of leasing. And as it’s rental it is offset-able against your tax at the end of the year.
As for racking, the ply liner (and it’s mounting screws) give many locations to attach racks and shelves. The jig holes in the inside body frame can also be used with some ingenuity. I use the drywall sprung ‘plugs’ – (they are the metal type that you push through a plasterboard wall and they spring open) and have never needed to drill any holes in the van body to attach racks using this method. Hotpoint 95 series drum spider nut plates are also useful for this job as they spread the weight and avoid damage. I always put a piece of clear plastic sheet between the frame and the wall of the van before I tighten the bolts to prevent scratching and chafing; something that saves time when returning the van.
Look at Contract Hire and Leasing’s website and Nationwide Contract Hire as they explain everything you need to know. You can also compare deals side by side on Nationwide.
I got my last two vans (Mercedes Vito and the Citroen Dispatch) through Freedom Vehicle Contracts (0845)130 1870. Cheaper than any on the net including the main dealers with their ‘special rates’. Speak to Darren, he’ll be able to get you what you want at the price you want with the spec you want. Really good company and very helpful and above all, keep you informed of everything. Good guys.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: haier door parts
My customer removed and threw all the handle parts away and then called me out to repair the broken handle;
I was referred to JTM for Haier spares…….was told £50 for handle, £50 for the catch peg and £50 for the pivot rod. Naturally, I didn’t take up their generous offer………… :clown:
Steve.
