[bobokines]

Re: Zannusi FJS1225 Burning smell

Surely there are two issues here. Sorry Three…

1. When fault finding, there is obviously a need to test individual components because of double pole switching etc.

2. The Reason that this issue was raised in this thread was to establish whether sensitive electronics can tolerate 500v dc test voltages and I would say that they can.

3. We have a duty to meggar test any machine when the repair is complete and that should be done when the machine is back in its place under the worktop. (This obviously can not be done in all cases as the plug is often hidden.)

Does anyone have the relevant regs to hand to see what the correct answer is here? Does this come up in the PAT testing regulations?

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Indesit 143s

Does it distribute and ramp up to spin or does it ‘lurch’ into spin? If so you may have a detached tacho magnet or faulty tacho circuitry.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Zannusi FJS1225 Burning smell

kheath wrote:Meggaring from the plug only tests an appliance up to the (double pole)On/Off switch which should be in the off position.

Kevin

Sorry Kevin, I’m not sure I agree with that. In my opinion a machine should be meggared after the machine is back in it’s position with the top on withthe power switch on and the timer knob rotated to include as many components as possible.

Some component’s that are double pole switched (eg the heater) may not show up as a fault when tested this way, but it is not unsafe on any component to test from the plug top.

The 500v test is only slightly higher than the peak voltage on the mains and that is why we use 500v. If we were talking about 2000v flash tests then I agree entirely.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Zannusi FJS1225 Burning smell

MickGeorge wrote: can I mega whole machine without damage to module etc? Have refrained so far on electronic machines so far due to fear of same.

Thanks

It’s a fallacy about not meggering electronic machines! Let’s face it, they account for 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of current production machines!

Any machine should be able to cope with a 500v megger between live/neutral and earth… And every machine should be tested before and after any repair.

As long as you don’t touch static sensitive component with your bare hands when the boards are not connected to the machine, you will not damage any component using normal test equipment.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: WMA bearing change

Perhaps a few posts here about the best way to get the Suspension Pins out?

I use a threaded screw, similar the to the screws that secure the concrete balance weights to WMA machines, welded onto the end of a twelve inch metal tee bar. This is similar to the tool supplied to Hotpoint engineers. I had a friend weld this for me at my local garage workshop.

It is screwed into the pivot pin and then (whilst holding the securing lug down with thumb and forefinger) the pin can be pulled out with a good tug. I usually sit on the floor with my foot against the drum for leverage.

Be careful about re-using the pin if the lug gets damaged. I normally fit a new pin if the old one is damaged.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: It’s too dark to work!

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=113161

This is the headlight torch that I use. It’s a lot cheaper at Robert Dyas. (when in stock)

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Hotpoint D/W strange leak

When I worked for Hotpoint, our local area manager had one of these machines himself. It leaked through the door exactly as yours does.

It took five engineers and over three weeks to establish that the fault was in the lower spray arm.

A few red faces!

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Hotpoint brushes – laminated vs thin.

There was a Hotpoint Technical Bulletin about this about 8 years or so ago. Any machine with digital controls should have Lam brushes as the brushes soak up some of the radio interference.

I only ever use laminated brushes and have only ever notice a problem with short brush life when there is a blocked or faulty drain pump. If the brushes are burned, I explain to the customer my reason for changing the drain pump and won’t give a gtee on the repair unless a new pump is fitted.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Proline condenser tumble dryer LEAKING !!

Aren’t you lucky. Think about all the ironing now! 😉

Well done, it’s nice to hear a result.

:tup:

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Hotpoint condenser dryers

Hi.

Re the condenser dryer (don’t forget that we need model numbers on these forums please)… The empty water light is turned on by a float switch behind the right hand side panel. The float lifts when the bottlle is full or if the bottle valve is clogged up. Check that the air breather hole in the bottle lid (if it has one) is not blocked.

I don’t think that the float switch will kill the whole machine though, only to turn the heater off.

Usually when the appliance is completetly dead it is the door switch or the relay.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: whirlpool awm1001

Thanks Dave, it’s for a nursing home so they’re not too bothered about the price.

Thanks again

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Indesit W93 prob.

You need to count the number of flashes whilst the timer is advancing. This will indicate an error code.

Look here for the answers

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … topic&t=40

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Proline condenser tumble dryer LEAKING !!

Yep, a good quality bathroom sealant will do the job.
Slacken, or remove the back panel, clean of the old sealant, apply fresh sealant and then use the fixing screws to squish the sealant whilst it’s still wet.

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Ariston A1535 problem AAAAAHHH!

It could be a number of things that would cause the machine to stick in a program and it’s best to eliminate each obvious problem in a sequence.

90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of problems with the machine not advancing are caused by the machine waiting for something to happen and the most likely is the water not entering fast enough, that’s why we would go for that option first. Once you have eliminated that possibility it’s time to look deeper for the problem.

Although the machine seems to pump out ok when you manually select a spin program, it could be a faulty pump that fails at a certain temperature.

It could be the program stepper motor (the mechanism that advances the timer) but I have never seen one fail on this make of machine and I have been in the business for 18 years!

The other possibility is a faulty control module… But you really don’t want to go down that line…

Bob

[bobokines]

Re: Ariston A1535 problem AAAAAHHH!

Make sure that the cold water is coming in ok: Turn the cold supply off, disconnect the hose at the machine end and put the hose into a bucket, then turn the water on again.

If the water doesn’t comes through at the same rate as your kitchen cold water tap then you have a plumbing problem. While doing this, check that the water pressure is ok. If you can stop the flow of water with your thumb then you may not have enough water pressure to operate the valve in the machine.

Bob

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