[electrofix]

assume you have cleaned the electrode and are trying it with wet clothes in there

if yes you can check wires from electrode to the board , check board for faulty caps
if all ok my guess is a board fault but which one is another question

makes it BER if a board has gone

Dave

[electrofix]

is this on a timed or auto programme and have you tried a timed one ?

Dave

[electrofix]

dunston wrote:I have looked at the resistor at R4 on the board. it looks like a 11 ohm resistor. i am getting 33 ohms reading through it. does the resistor go open circuit when it fails?

thanks mark.

yes it will normally blow open

if that is ok the next test needs to be live

you need to look at the electrolytic caps. look at the working voltages on them. a couple may be 400v but the ones your looking for are lower. power up and see if there is any voltages present all voltages will be under 50v so safe apart from thr mains side. if you get a voltage need to know if its a steady voltage and not going up and down

Dave

[electrofix]

well if it was me i would power it up on the bench, but that is more difficult as you would have to solder wires to the board to get mains power to the correct place.
we need to find out if the board power supply is ok

to do this by the way the only connectors you need are where the power comes in, looks like P04 and CN04 the rest dont need to be connected to test power supply

you can leave boards hanging out on test provided you make sure it cant touch anything. I have used bits of cardboard etc to hold the board during test

Dave

[electrofix]

iadom wrote:

To be perfectly honest I would never leave any appliance that uses water on delay, or running overnight. 🙁

not to mention the possible fire risks of doing so

Dave

[electrofix]

yes resistor will be low value poss 47 ohms or so so if its thousands its gone

the capacitors are the dc voltages that feed the circuits and yes if you get nothing and R01 is ok i would suspect the IC01

as a last double check you can check voltage on C01 which should be 240v AC
and the voltage on C02 which should be 300v DC or there abouts

just remember to take care and be careful measuring live circuits

Dave

[electrofix]

next step is to check R1

if that ok we can say C02 should charge to 300v DC

we now need to know if the power supply is operating so we need to check the voltages on the smaller caps

you should get 7 12 and 35 volts on the caps

if you get nothing then the power supply unit is not working

Dave

[electrofix]

live comes in and goes to term 3 on ry01. it then leaves the board on CY04 term 1 and goes to 2 thermal fuses. it then comes back to the board on cy04 term 3 and goes to L01

neutal comes in and goes to RY02 term 3 it then goes straight to L01

you need to find both circuits from plug to L01 first

Dave

[electrofix]

first what i think i would do is find component L1 on the board

then with all the plugs connected you chould get continuity from the plug, both live and neutral to this component. this is where the power goes to the power supply on the board

this can be done with no risk with a 9v test meter

Dave

[electrofix]

be careful your dealing with high voltage DC

and if the capacitor is charging you can get a shock when its off in certain circumstances

Dave

[electrofix]

this is a switch mode power supply to work they take 240v and rectifiy it to make DC at about 300v on the big cap

but in the circuit are 2 thermal fuses that are on equipment in the unit.and connect ot connector CN04. you need to see if you have a circuit across the CN$ plug, if these fail then there is no power to the power supply

my first job on a dead unit is to see if you have 300v DC on the main cap. if not we need to figure out why

Dave

[electrofix]

well you need to check on power

diagrams shows power come in the board then it goes out to 2 77 degree thermal fuses

you need to find and check them shows on connector cn04

Dave

[electrofix]

if all the components are ok then it should work

you need to find a reason why the fuse blew. was it a board fault or an external component that caused it

I can find board overlays but not a board circuit diagram and dont know what components blew or why so its difficult to come up with a theory

yoes post some pics but the is a size constraint so you may have to host elsewhere and post public links

Dave

[electrofix]

would need a look at the board and to know which parts fried to try to come up with a why

the service manual is online to help you

Dave

[electrofix]

ok there is no pressure switch listed for your model

it is on the picture as its a universal parts breakdown for the range but they only list relavent parts

Dave

[Author]

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