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geoff1
ParticipantRe: zanussi fx1465w w/machine
Hi tedd
End light flashing is an indication to customer that there is a fault.
5 flashes then a gap suggests that there is a motor/pcb fault.
You would need to go into the service mode to get a more exact fault code
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: indesit TD door part
C00113847 microswitch piece
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: zanussi fmw 231
hi
part number 3570039010 was 50025701009
Qualtex part number ele6336
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Public Liabilty Insurance
For the last 2 years the best quote I could get was via CETA insurance ltd whose policy is with MMA Insurance (master tradesman Plus). You can build a policy to suit your activities ( working with gas etc) and what cover you require for tools plus customer units in transit.
Level wise most of the companies I work for (D&G for example) stipulate £2 million min cover. Currently I have had to increase to £5 million to meet the condition of a new contract I have undertaken but £2 million should be ample IMO
Geoff
February 12, 2009 at 10:07 pm in reply to: help indesit idl 500 dishwasher 2nd and 4th lights flashing #277263geoff1
ParticipantRe: help indesit idl 500 dishwasher 2nd and 4th lights flas
hi
2nd and 4th lights indicate that the heater is open circuit. Suggest that you get some with a meter capable of reading resistance to check the element is o/c and not a fault in the wiring.
Elements can be purchased from ukwhitegoods shop.Please switch off and unplug before investigating
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Zanussi dishwasher dws 909
Hi
Do you have an email address I can send some information to you
?Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Smeg SE335SS-5 Thermostat Replacement
Hi
Yes when the fan element blows or shorts to earth it can cause the rcd to trip very much like a light bulb does when they go pop.
If the fan, oven light and red indicator light come on when you select the fan position it would suggest that the selector/thermostat is ok. Normally the red neon indicating when the oven is up to temp is on the output side of the element which would prove there is power coming out of thermostat.
Have you had a look at the element to see if it has physicaly blown??
Remember to power off before removing panel
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Business Bank Account v Personal Accounts
Hi
I have been with the Alliance and Leicester for a year now and have had no problems at all. I pay in the cheques/cash at the post office and the rest pay via bacs into my account. Bacs is used also to pay spares suppliers etc and I use the switch card for fuel etc. On line banking with them is easy as well as being safe. Cheque book only used once and there was no charge there.
All of this is free.
No harm in contacting them for additional adviceGeoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: LEC F/F T660 – Fridge Not Cold?
Hi Laurence
Not able to help to much with this one but the stat that is fitted is called a dual zone stat. The coiled capillary is measuring air temp and the other is for measuring evap temps. With stats it is rare ( never had one my self) for them to cause the unit not to get to temp correctly they either work or don’t ( check that contacts between 6 and 4 are closed – will only open when down to temp)
Gas valve is there to divert gas between fridge and freezer depending on stat operation.
Possible that unit is not switching gas valve to divert gas to fridge ( will not cool at all) or that the unit is low on gas/weak compressor( poor freezing in freezer as well as fridge one would suspect)HTH
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Alternate Stat For Old LEC Larder Fridge L7629
Hi
6 is the live into stat
4 is the feed to compressor ( poss black wire)
3 is for defrost element or warning light etc.
6 and 4 are the ones for you
Geoff
February 7, 2009 at 6:21 pm in reply to: SMEG SRA20X1 Freezer temp warning alarm sounding at night! #276365geoff1
ParticipantRe: SMEG SRA20X1 Freezer temp warning alarm sounding at nigh
Hi Adam
Does this happen at roughly the same time each night?
The reason I ask this as the unit has a frost free freezer which will go into a defrost cycle every 12 or 24hours ( depends on system used). While it is in the defrost mode it will bring on a heater to clear the ice and the heat from this can cause the sensor to believe that the unit is defrosting. If the food is ok and it happens at roughly the same time each night, them this is possibly the problem. Switching off the unit and switching back on a couple of hours later will also prove the point as the time of defrost will change to roughly the time it was switched back on.
Also make sure unit is not overloaded and that the air can flow easily through the basketsHope this information is of help
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Crusader CT61C Tumble Dryer – Cutting Out
Hi
Does the drier cut out and take a while before you can start it again? This and having to hold start button in suggests that the relay is at fault.
SWITCH OFF AND UNPLUG BEFORE REMOVING LID.
Relay is situated behind control panel in the middle.Black transparent plastic and held in place with 2 screws.
Replacement is available from
http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Tumble+D … Relays.htmPart number 1701624
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Aeg tumble dryer
Hi
Have emailed bulletin to you
hope it helps
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP8332
Hi Steve
Many thanks for swift reply
Geoff
geoff1
ParticipantRe: Ignis AWF 591 Integrated w/m
Hi
User manual is available from http://www.whirlpool.co.uk. Pop in your model number and you will be able to view or down load a copy.In this they list the water stop fault as the machine detecting a leak and stops the fill while switching pump on.
HTH
Geoff
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