[Gokhk]

electrofix wrote:the pcb receives the locked signal from the output wire of the lock
it has to receive this as it energises the solenoid. if the board does not get this or cant recognise then machine waont start

you cant check most LG board because they coat them in resin. it means you cant repair small electronic problems and have to change complete boards

Dave

sorry to bother you Dave but the part has been delayed and mrs wants to get some washing done for a temporary fix can I short the red and black cable to bypass the lock ?

Iv seen online it should be red and black how can I be sure they are the correct pins to short , again apologies for bothering you but mrs on my case

[Gokhk]

I see only thing to do is hope and pray it’s just a lock as again now that you mention it that small disc had grey coating on either side worn off and I know when I did manual continuity checks with mrs help before dissembling I got nothing from any combo of pins so all I can do is hope it’s what you said but the lady is still adamant it was working which is bs from my tests and mould inside door.

cheers Dave helpful as always

[Gokhk]

electrofix wrote:difficult to tell a lot from vid and pics

these locks have 2 systems. both have to work for the door to lock

there is a round disk that is a small heater that heats the bi metal strip while the solenoid locks and unlocks the door

both systems have to be working to be able to work

most faults on these locks are down to bad connections to the heater disc. the disc is coated in something each side to make a good connection and this degrades over time due to the heat

Dave

funnily enough Dave when I took the lock apart the disc held in my the spring on one side of solenoid popped out and I had to put it back , Iv ordered a replacement lock and pray your right I’m just confused as I saw the lock being thrown when I had the interlock out of machine placement but still connected it clicked a couple of times as if it was locking then unlocking and gave DE error.

Is it worth checking the pcb at back of machine I believe ?

[Gokhk]

Sad when bad design causes something to go to the skip i would have conformal coated it but hindsight is a wonderful thing plus thats a lot of power so who knows unlucky mate gutted for you , hope the new one is all good

[Gokhk]

All solved guys , Tennat had overtightened filter to the point it was mangled , new filter sorted the issue no leaks , felt annoyed having to pay for such a minor fault due to user error but I’ve learned a valuable lesson, if you want something done do it yourself 🙂 hopefully I’ll get a few more years use to soften the blow and future issues relating to blockages won’t be covered by me that’s for sure , thanks for your prompt responses as always.

[Gokhk]

Cheers andy & dave

Sadly I’m away now so will cough up the £50 quoted to sort it , doubt its pump but I could be wrong , I’ll update you guys soon as engineer fixes it.

thanks again

[Gokhk]

Perfect fingers crossed it resolves the issue

thanks kwatt much appreciated

[Gokhk]

I see

I’ll test again but if not could it be the thermostat or would the grill working rule that out ?

when this issue started the red light wouldn’t come on but after 1-2 days it does so I’m wondering whether there’s a thermal cut out or something ?

[Gokhk]

Perfect

I ordered the bottom one

My worry is upper element doesn’t work on anything other than grill so could that also be faulty ?

I’ll test continuity but hoping bottom one does the trick.

anything else I should test or watch out for ?

thanks again

[Gokhk]

Another thing to try is if you have a bench power supply and know the current the heater elements / fan takes why not wire it up directly and energise , it sounds to me the machine is telling it to turn on but it’s not receiving the signal , bad relay of some sort ?

pcb you could check for shorted caps or other chips etc but to me this sounds more and more simple , if a direct feed can be setup that would be my best bet with a simple switch to activate with machine dry cycle , see what Dave says.

[Gokhk]

Good luck lost boy i gave up with my AEG although least yours is easier symptoms i.e no hot air mine was opposite. A few things Dave and others suggested to me ,check wiring as maybe its a intermittent connection issue (contact cleaner perhaps ?)- wiring to fan , recirculation pump ?. Reading the thread sadly maybe it could be a even be pcb error ? Check it for any obvious signs. If you can find a retired AEG engineer thats your best bet at this stage , keep us posted as id like to know what it was if you can find out.

[Gokhk]

Just to update anyone with the same issue , As confirmed the motor has died and suction was weak , i only notice this now as i have a 1400w version of the hoover and it runs the motorised brush with no fuss where as this one started to give up the ghost clearly it wasn’t anything i did and the motor was temperamental and on its last legs , will do a full autopsy with the help of a machine shop but think sadly its beyond economical repair.

[Gokhk]

Oh dear , just so annoyed as it was working and i strained cable then it died again and wont come back now i guess perhaps it had nothing to do with it but it was intermittent till (did it once before) till i heard to poof , oh well ill see if i can source similar im actually in Hong kong so perhaps the Chinese can fix the Chinese motor 🙂 who knows, Again massive thank you to everyone who helped to diagnose this issue. Ill take it to a few shops and see what they say out of curiosity and keep you guys posted.

[Gokhk]

Hi Dave

Managed to rig a screwdriver together and pulled motor see the images

https://ibb.co/ZxT8NwJ
https://ibb.co/m88Nykb
https://ibb.co/F89rfw5
https://ibb.co/5RCXfjF
https://ibb.co/F89rfw5

Cant seem to get it fully apart and i dont want to break it but no continuity when i go across both connection tabs on motor at all

Also when i spin motor and try measure resistance i get nothing too no reading (could be on wrong setting for multimeter)

At this point unless i get to the brushes its beyond my talents , i cant see much black stuff and neither does it smell of burning so im still hopefull 😉

im gonna take it to a machine shop to see if they can get it apart and check brushes or check a winding (hoping as iv done the labour it may be fairly cheap) as i loved this hoover and new one is rubbish.

Anyway thanks for your help as always

Gokhan

[Gokhk]

Cheers Dave

Phillips in thier wisdom have made one of the holes deep and narrow so need an extra long but thin torx magnetic screwdriver for one bloody screw ! Otherwise I would have whipped it out by now , tested the board for continuity between various points and all seems good so it’s either stuck brush or I’m done as new motor priced more than what it worth , sadly landfill looks likely.

[Author]

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