[Gokhk]

Yeah what an absolute shame , I knew the poof noise wasn’t a good sign !

yes those wires do go to the motor although I can only measure via the traces on circuit board as they connect to solder points.

one of the cables measures 200+ AC , the other nothing I assume its neutral , although I can’t be sure

is there a more definite test I can do to 1000{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} say it’s motor ? I maybe thought brushes if I was lucky.

also the hoover was only used for 1 year any ideas why this happened?

I store it above a extractor wondering whether the heat damaged it but it’s just next to the pipe in the cupboard which doesn’t get hot so doubt it.

Thanks again as always Dave

[Gokhk]

Hey Dave

Just checked no beep when checking across both leads for continuity. Am I checking by correct positive and negative leads across both to complete circuit right ?

FYI this problem happened once before and once I plugged and unplugged plus reeled out cable hoover came back to life and was working fine , I would say wire strain or loose connection but it’s checking out fine for those faults 🙁

[Gokhk]

fuse tests ok for continuity guys , unless im measuring wrong ?

beep setting checks out fine when testing across both ends 🙁

no burning smell , last thing left is to pull the motor , although no extra lives are coming through either so only 1 live and 1 neutral at a time if that makes sense.

[Gokhk]

Great work fella , normally it’s £99 and all parts on them , will need a new PCB for sure , but keep us posted perhaps the Engineer has a better insight or hack ?

[Gokhk]

Good to hear as i said on that thread i suspect is a logic / controller chip fault which no one is willing to replace individually as its got custom firmware i beleive though it could be easily copied from a new board to store for future blank chips , though sadly no one cares to bother these days.

[Gokhk]

Sadly thats the case when they design duff pcb’s and wont admit fault but certainly id refer then to other thread and try and see if they show some goodwill.

[Gokhk]

Did you check the wiring harness going to the door and PCB for shorts mate ?

Youll need a meter to measure continuity , start with basics but maybe an expert here will shed light on faults these models suffer with ?

Could easily be a PCB fault happening more often with Bosch these days from what i hear.

Check here https://www.washerhelp.co.uk/forums/topic/2305-bosch-wvg30461gb01-wont-lock-and-start/

Looks like a new PCB to be honest.

Bosch may repair for a set fee of 100 quid if you complain that it should last longer but who knows depends on the service rep in my experience.

[Gokhk]

Cheers Dave gonna give this a whirl and see what happens , cause im talking scalding hot for dryer , as i said i gave up as i didnt want to risk a valve at 30 machine on a whim. Think ill just use for washing which is fine by me.

[Gokhk]

sorry to jump on this thread but dave any chance i can do this with my AEG or will it throw up error codes ? , i want to be able to stop people using the dryer settings by mistake as it gets dangerously hot ?

[Gokhk]

As a someone who has bought family members many machines i agree that the general public are somewhat cheapskates but thats not all of us if someone like miele charged x3 the cost of rivals fair enough but when they charge nearly x5 and they start penny pinching too then as joe public what are we supposed to think , manufactures in all areas are now deliberately producing products with planned obsolesce so its only fair in my opinion that consumers say balls to that and buy a product that at least justifies this obsolesce from a price point. Its not right and i hate to see but sadly thats where we are with right to repair etc. The issue is complex but at this point in time this is where we are.

[Gokhk]

electrofix wrote:you cant blame the manufacturers they are just following a trend and income stream. If they did not sell the machines then they would very quickly change things.
As for the second hand market,well sealed tubs have almost knocked that on the head. Take the Hotpoint made 20 years ago, i can still get a bearing kit for around £20 and with about 2 hours work i can completly recondition the whole mahine including a deep clean. When bearing fail now its a sealed tub costing over £100 and even if you find one thats ok you cant be sure if it will fail in the guarentee,which means a refund because its not worth fixing

Dave

Yeah i agree dave but 100 still better than a 300-400 sealed system but as i stated sadly economics play there part for me i would rather spend more fixing an old machine that toss in the bin but at some point you have to draw the line at whats feasible you. Touch wood iv had good luck bar the AEG which iv given up on for now as it washes fine.

Murv if you have a decent independant appliance shop check out their recon stuff as if they are good it will be better than some of the new stuff and cheaper to boot.

[Gokhk]

iadom wrote:
You’re obviously not a member of XR then, still a totally disastrous way to think given the environmental damage your suggestions will cause.:mad:

Actually guys before judging someone perhaps know them better , Iv stated several times on this forum that I’m a big advocate for buying second hand quality machines that can be maintained an repaired whist they are generally built better think 10 year old bosch or Miele before the penny pinching era.

The fact sadly remains that if the OP doesn’t want to take my approach or pay £2000 then there is little other choice , perhaps direct your sarky comments at manufacturers rather than individual like me.

[Gokhk]

Miele are all marketing hype dont belive thier bs , buy cheap and aim to replace every 3-4 years if lucky , why pay 2000 for some guff , when you can buy near 7 machines for that ?

[Gokhk]

I must say im not a fan of the new cheaper mieles sadly they have gone down in quality and design but just my humble view.

[Gokhk]

George B wrote:Hi, I think the heating element has gone. I managed to get the machine on again and I think it blows the fuse when it starts to heat.

Does anyone know how do I get into the W562 to get access to the heating element. Does the front come off or is it all accessed from the rear? Is there any service manuals for it or teardowns on how to get access?

I figured it’s worth giving a go for the price of an element. Might save it from washing machine heaven !

Try this fella

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Oduk8W9AQI&feature=youtu.be

[Author]

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