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Cheers Andy im going to give your suggestions a go , although i cant see how i would get something to go in condenser bar taking off fan and pouring something down the hole , as the condenser hose just connects to drawer and then everything from what i can see all goes down same the black thick detergent hose in to drum , not sure how water then gets trickled gets to condenser ?
Again thanks so much for the time, As i said its been demoralising so after this last attempt i will give up as its gotten me down.
andyjawa wrote:I was somewhat unsure at the time about the this valve diagnosis because it is not overly common! What I did do was to take the old offending valve home and rig up a test lead using ( which I presume you won`t have ) a spare 2 wire connector with its foot of wire cut off a spare old Indesit wiring loom and wired the other end into live and neutral of a spare mains cable and twisted the end bare wires 1 to live and t`other 1 to neutral and then isolated each with electrical tape. Then plugged the mains cable into the mains socket. You will hear the valve very faintly hum then if FAULTY it will eventually fail. You might not have given it enough time to fail as someone else has pointed out. Mine eventually failed after about 10 to 15 mins and as soon as it did – no humming: power off, UNPLUGGED, and then tested with a meter using the 2 solder circular dots on top of the green solenoid = open circuit coil. I then left this alone for 30 minutes (?) and then measured with my meter as before and got a reading = a circuit. So it fails and cools down it then forms a circuit again. I then re-ran the same test again and it failed again but I did not bother timing how long any of this took to screw-up ( hmm, I wish I had ), but it was a shorter time than before until it did.
What I can tell you is that the customer never called me back so she either thinks I`m a total nob end ( I can`t possibly believe that is true! ) and didn`t bother calling me back to face da music …BUT…..I can assure you she would`ve it it had not cured the problem since, as you point out and quite rightly, the part is not particularily cheap. It has been a fair few months since it was fixed.Cheers Andy im pretty sure i tested the first time for 30 mins and it was filling though cant say if it was constant but i wll try one more time just to be sure
As a hail mary im gonna run a cleaning cycle for drying which is stated in manual not expecting anything but want to rule it out , doubt fan is blocked as clothes are hot wouldn’t that indicate fan is pushing hot air in ? Can hear in running so again im certain its drawing the air back in. Again will try sticking something in to dislodge any fluff but cant get in proper due to it being a glued unit and heating elements.
The issue i believe is that the hot air is not being condensed hence the hot and damp clothes but maybe im wrong , this is by far the hardest fault iv ever tried to repair 🙁
Lets see one final push and if not i give up as i spent hours on it already
Ok mate will try 30 mins or so but if it’s not the valve what else is there ? As I can’t see how to clean the unicorn condenser plus no errors are being tripped which according to andy if blocked would be happening.
im at a loss , I really am.
Thanks for your patience and replies this far.
Hey Dave
I’ve only ran the dryer for 5 or 10mins. Enough for the valve to open twice and draw water through, and enough time to get the drying steaming hot.
is there anyway to conclusively test this thing as I’m reluctant to order a new one and it not fix the issue.
Well I’m bloody getting sick of this machine
tested valve seems to be filling a cup just fine so I’m at a loss feel like putting a hammer through it at the moment !
if someone can watch the videos and let me know I’d be grateful
Far as I can tell the condenser valve works fine.
Back to 0
Is there anything else I’m missing ?
There was a re-designed evaporater cover with better sensors from what im told , perhaps you could try that ? Just scrapped my samsung because of the same fault and numerous visits , gave up in the end as fixes would only last 1 year max and then become faculty again , bad design im told.
Mine had this issue and though they fitted a redesigned panel and reprogramming pcb settings it still never lasted for more than 1 year , my defrost sensor was attached to the back of the panel , its about 6-7 pounds on ebay for original sensor cable most likely that could be the issue here hence its freezing up but honestly these things are designed badly and im no expert (google law suits samsung usa)
Samsung offer 5 year warranty on some models but do have thier flaws from what i read , Most of the other makes are copies of Chinese versions i.e daewoo rebadged as Bosch. For warranty to price ratio i dont think samsung can be beat to be fair but liebherr are better though more costly. If you feeling adventurous go for a Chinese made one like hisense reference designs so spares are available but experts here know more than me.
Cheers Dave will give it another try as i dont want to order a part on the chance its that , the replacements iv found range fro 30-50 quid which whilst not horrendous is still not worth the gamble at this stage without a proper diagnosis.
Will update you again when i test more
Had a similar incident with our samsung , 7 years old and written off i dont think lots of insurance repair guys know what they are doing to be honest they did various repairs which never lasted more than 1 year , i think its a bad design of defrost system. Ice collects and it doesn’t defrost due to sensor issues believe. They even allegedly reprogrammed pcb and fitted a redesigned part but still same old faults. Scrapping sadly.
andyjawa wrote:I had this problem on a similar AEG WASHER DRYER a couple of months ago. It was the green solenoid winding breaking down: sometimes it would work = closed circuit roughly the same as your reading then suddenly an open circuit solenoid coil and remained open circuit for 20 to 30 minutes so no water was going through it then the coil would go back to how it should be then failed again but only after 5 minutes. Strange old fault and took a bit of detective work and luck. I replaced the 3 way valve and it has been as good as gold ever since. So the bottom line is my very attractive female customer has no hot steamy damp undies anymore…………least not from the washer dryer!
Normally a blockage in the condenser that is severe would take out the t/dryer o/load stat that being its whole point of being there.Hey Andy and Dave
so im working on the machine am i right in thinking condensation solenoid is green one and the hose connects to number 3 of draw ?
see image
Going to take the hose off and see if it fills a bottle with water on dry cycle
Furthermore according to this manual it should measure 3.5ohms to 4.5ohms see pics below
https://ibb.co/5hkVNDZ
https://ibb.co/4mCYDHZSo looks like this is the culprit at mine measures 5.3 ohmns
Any links for a replacement part as theres quite a few models and i dont want to buy the wrong one
AEG part number is 1325188405
Thanks again
andyjawa wrote:Hmm. Well I do not rate Bosch that highly as I have had Bosch sealed tanks fail at 4 years and Neff b/in washer dryers with splitable tanks fail at 4.5 years. If the machine has been thrashed with knackered bearings expect to pay £230 for the rear half tank and about the same price for a drum ( which only comes with a new spider )….basically you are not going to win unless you get lucky. It boils down to Bosch & Co being poor quality these days. Better machine would be an Lg in my opinion but spares can and do go obsolete as do Haier spares. There isn`t really anything out there that rocks my boat. Miele are reasonable machines but can be horrendously expensive to get fixed so I would not be overly keen buying one of those either: get unlucky at it fails at 7 years badly ( which despite all the hype happens ) and that Miele that cost 800 quid ( for example ) could cost £400 to put right so now you are caught by the short ones, too expensive to scrap perhaps but too expensive to take a 400 quid repair gamble. I would consider buying the Whirlpool at 250 quid and take a gamble but not under the Maytag banner ( Whirlpool spares are however a rip off, Maytag spares are a bigger rip off! Both have sealed tanks too )……at this rate it`ll be a Curry`s Logik at 200 quid: dismanteable tank, bearings, contrary to popular belief, can be bought separate from a 83 quid half tank but not from Partmaster ( but of course! ) and the rest of the other parts are an almost reasonable price. No point buying an Indesit: 10 year parts warranty is only useful if the bearings fail – sealed tank, or the pcb fails – lap topped onsite by Indesit everything else anyone can fix way less than the £115 labour charge given most Indesits only cost circ 200 quid to begin with.
What do you think of samsung Andy ?
my mum had one for 5 years with no issues but then like the American fridge it started to go wrong and its in garage to be looked it , mind you it only cost 300 when new from best buy (yes thats how long ago it was) , iv only recently joined here but learnt so much already big thanks to everyone on here for the insight and helpful comments.
Might help people if you post a pnc number buddy
Take a read of the service manual too , im currently having a similar issue but yours is a slight different model and luckily for you the manual is in English. Though your model is a lot more complex with things like a refrigerant so i wouldn’t advise messing with it too much as it may be a sealed system.
https://elektrotanya.com/aeg_l99695_…wnload.html#dl
Good luck
Wow andy your a star , i hope it is that , any way to just replace that one solenoid rather than a whole unit ?
I phoned AEG who said they would speak to technical and come back to me or email a PDF , so fingers crossed they do , havent had time to check the condenser solenoid again , but given thats its only a cup of water that it dispenses i was going to add a little liquid like bric conditioner to see if the pump does indeed dispense some water as i dont half fancy waiting by it to dispense , will recheck readings with leads off.
Hoping AEG will clear up the mystery of getting to the condenser as i really see no way bar the top of the fan which is limited and wont allow cleaning just water to be poured. Theres not even a condensate tube , according to the service manual i have ,it just uses the detergent dispenser hose but how does it know to divert the water to the condenser and not the drum ?? All very strange.
If i could find a condensate tube i could trace it back but alias there doesn’t seem to be one
AEG told me the machine was made in 2004 any one else have any other input ???
Again much appreciated to dave for all his help already and fingers crossed andy’s spot on.
