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Thank you Dave – most useful. Customer away until 20th Sept, but will report back on outcome.
Graham
Have you checked that the air inlet on the left hand side of the machine is not obstructed? I have been to a few Hoover/Candy dryers showing symptoms of overheating, and on each occasion the machine had been installed tight against a full height end panel with minimal clearance (If any). I explained the problem to the customer and suggested the machine be moved across to the right of the opening and a strip of wood, inserted between the cupboard panel and the machine, to allow full air circulation to the air inlet grille. Always cured the problem. Poor design I fear and the problem easily overlooked. Graham
Not sure if this is relevant to this model, but I’ve had Beko machines in the past where the timer would only respond if it was set on the same programme as when the machine shut down. It was a question of selecting each programme in turn and trying a start or reset. If the correct programme was selected all came back to life again and control restored. It may be worth a try. (I’m sure I got the tip from this forum – a good few years back. Might be worth a search.)
GrahamThanks Dave and Neil, Tried all known solutions today, but to no avail. Going to order another module and if that doesn’t work, it’s another perfectly good machine going to the tip. Graham
Just a thought. I’m not familiar with the particular model, but on a lot of Beko machines, you can’t cancel the programme, unless the selector is set to the programme that is running. If it has been moved, then it’s a case of select each programme, and try to cancel until you find the one which works. It should however restart normally, once the programme has completed on its own. Graham
I would suspect the fan motor. I’ve change several because of a seemingly impossible short to earth. If it’s not working a continuity test should confirm.
Graham
I’ve had a couple of dishwashers recently where the main door seal, that fits into a channel on three sides of the cabinet, has been put on the wrong way round i.e. with the ‘fin’, for want of a better word, not touching the door it’s supposed to seal. It’s difficult to describe, but all looks fine, but won’t seal against the door. Take it off turn it round and problem solved. Worth checking if you haven’t done so already. Sounds like your customer could well have been checking that and put it back the wrong way round.
Graham
Thanks for the manual Dave. I regret that on this occasion the dryer won and I had to retire defeated. It appeared to defy rubber work gloves and brute force.
It appears that every incarnation of this machine has a different method of fixing the door glass.
If anyone should find a way of doing it, I would be interested to know the solution.
GrahamHave you changed the pump on this machine? I have had a very similar experience where having spent hours observing a similar machine working perfectly, the customer kept calling me back with a not draining issue. A replacement drain pump sorted it. Might be worth a try if you carry a spare.
Graham
I had just that problem, a couple of days ago. I thought the pump was running slow. I went back to check for blockage, removed the heat/pump assembly, took down the impeller housing and the impeller had detached from the disc supporting and driving it. Wondering now whether to swap in a s/h impeller from a similar unit with blown heater. Got loads of those! Graham
I had this fault a while back, and went to the board before I knew the the tacho was the most likely cause. I changed one of the relays in an attempt to sort it before Dave put me right with the tacho advice. There were two relays controlling the heater, but switching L & N as I remember. If one were to fail it wouldn’t give 116v at the heater, but under no load conditions the 116v may just be a red herring being half of 230v. (Was that reading taken across the heater terminals? If so it implies some current flowing.) Further than that I can’t really help. The rear module was a devil to take out – wiring holding it tight – but beyond that it’s easy enough to access relays which were 12v as I recall.
GrahamAre the tension pulley bearing and drum support wheels ok? Full of fluff suggests mis-aligned drum. Graham
