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A slight judder sounds like normal operation to me. The electronics has to ‘set up’ the motor to ensure the correct direction of rotation, before applying 3-phase power. A more pronounced judder once it has started rotation sounds like a board fault.
Graham
Incidentally, I like to force a bit of water through the hole where the little pressure switch connects (Length of rubber hose and a syringe!) just to make sure that the pathway is clear into the sump. I’ve had the air reservoir clag up, reducing or blocking ability of the pressure switch to sense the water level.
Does it continue to fill when the power is removed? If so the Aquastop valve is faulty. Otherwise as Dave says, it’s a board fault. Graham
Sorted. Only managed to get back to this one this morning owing to holidays. New tacho coil fitted to pump motor and machine now heating as it should.
I’d never have got this one sorted without your help. Very many thanks Dave.
Graham
I presume that you’ve done the usual checks for rice, sweetcorn and pepperoni wrappers blocking the upper spray arm holes and that the arm rotates freely.
When the machine is running, can you hear the sound of the spray changing from bottom to top spray arm? If you notice a regular change in the sound the machine makes during operation the diverter is probably working. The only quick way I know, to test the diverter, is to pull up the dual duct spigots that push into the base of the machine behind the lower spray arm. Then peer down into the opening with a torch, to look at the diverter plate which rotates to divert the water to upper and lower spay arms. This is usually a white disc and most often seems to stop working with one hole only partially uncovered. That’s usually the first clue to a failure of that component. Finally, if you suspect the diverter, a gentle prising with a small screwdriver, will usually enable a hole (In the diverter disc) to be moved into position to send the water to the top spray arm. Test – with the duct spigots reconnected. If upper spray arm now rotates, pretty sure to be the diverter unit.
Hope that helps.
Graham
Machine sorted. Diagnostic showed 5F error. Checked data wiring continuity between main control module and motor module. Tightened plug contacts at each end. Machine back to normal. Many thanks for your help Dave.
GrahamThanks for your reply Dave. No sequence on Start /Pause light, it just flashes as though waiting for a press to start. NTC doesn’t seem too far out of range but I may try to find a replacement to see whether that’s at fault although it was a cold utility room so at 16deg 8k ohm is probably within range.
I don’t suppose you know the sequence to put it into test mode?
GrahamI would check all of the data connections to the pcbs. I had several instances recently where a completely unresponsive button panel has come back to life after just removing the plugs to the pcb and reconnecting them. If it works when you’ve done that it’s just a question of tightening all the contacts. Worth a try.
GrahamI’m not familiar with the oven unit in question, but I use nylon cord a lot to position and hold awkward items whilst I get the first screw in. Drop it down from the top (under the hob) or pull it up from the underneath with string through the hole. A bit fiddly but if there’s a clear path for the old one to drop out then the replacement can be pulled in the the same way. Need to be sure there’s a clear path before dropping old one into the bowels of the oven though. Graham
Are you sure this is a fault? I went to a Bosch dishwasher a week or two back and had exactly the same thing when testing. Had given up waiting for it to fill and was about to start further investigation when it suddenly started to fill and was fine. Maybe it’s just the software checking something before the cycle continues. If it starts to fill on its own after five mins, then maybe that’s what it’s meant to do. Graham
Re: Whirlpool AKP262/II (857726238503)
The model number should be AKP262/IX. Apologies – original post sent from a mobile.
Re: Bosch WAK28160 reset procedure
I had a Bosch machine recently which had a different reset procedure to the standard 6 o’clock setting. Sorry can’t recall the model.
As I recall it was turn dial to 11 o’clock position (effectively 1 click anti-clockwise but turned it clockwise to that position) then I think it was hold start button for 5 seconds then switch off. Did the trick for me. Was first time I’d had to do anything other than 6 o’clock reset.
Hope that helps.
GrahamRe: Error 7 currys wm
Looked at one the other day. I can’t be sure if it was the same model no. Start light was flashing 7 times. Turned out to be motor carbons – one was like new the other worn away to virtually nothing. Dressed the armature. Fitted new carbons. All was fine.
Not sure it will survive a fast spin however. A reasonable standard of construction is not ‘Essential’ it seems.
Good luck
