[helo_75]

just a quick question… and a little off the boil… do your fridge shelves sit normally in the fridge?

just curious………..

[helo_75]

HMMN, id be inclined to say the ntcs were faulty

have you noticed your fridge temp dropping?(that probably why the temp alrm sounds)

its usually the ntcs to be fair , id hav to recommend a service engineer to fit them , as it does involve removing the cooling evaporator from inside the top of the freezer, and inserting the ntcs in the evaporator, and theres lots of sharp edges

there was a post about this not to long ago, but in all honesty it aint as easy as the guy says, trust me, ive been cut many a time!!

given the quality and price of your appliance, id say it was a worthwhile repair, and would probably cost less than £100 (although, it depends on who u call out, obviously)!

[helo_75]

deleted

dont wanna start a fight 😀

[helo_75]

nah,if theres no switch there will probably be a magnet in the door, which needs to be nearer the pcb to operate

lol.. air pressure

itll probably need a new door, or/and a pcb

maybe the hinge just needs adjusting

let us know how u go on?

hope this helps

[helo_75]

need pnc number to be more exact, but when the alarm sounds, lights will be flashing

we really need to know what lights are flashing, in what order etc

theres a good chance its the ntc in the freezer, but, again, theres 2 types, and we need the pnc number (on the rating plate behind the salad bin) to be more exact

hope this helps

[helo_75]

thats f12

meaning non communicaation between pcb’s

first thing, unplug, leave for 10 mins, plug in try again

second check wiring plug/loom between pcb/s

failing that, itll need a pcb and eprom

plug out if your gonna have a look

[helo_75]

turn the fast freeze off…. itll run forever at that, or untill the compressor has enuff

[helo_75]

more likely to be the defrost timer…..

[helo_75]

but did u fix it?

[helo_75]

thats because the stats hidden inside the front baffle

if you open the door, and feel upwards, towards the front, youll feel the cover and 2 screws

might be easier if you use a mirror, so u see what i mean

and make sure ur unplugged, its live, so could get nasty

[helo_75]

nah, the 1703273 comes with pads,belt and a rear bearing, and thats that

the 1703080 does the trick just fine and dandy

[helo_75]

the word SCOOT springs to mind……….

[helo_75]

oh and vee, its debatable at 7 months old

if you can get the engineer to admit its a fault thats been present from new, then you might be in with a chance, you’d be better speaking to trading standards really, exchanges have always been a ‘sticky’ subject

bosch claim theres now a fix, and its new, so its as yet untested, but bosch are pretty good, and quite often, they get it right

hope this helps

[helo_75]

ah well you see, its ok demanding the customer does a 48hr defrost, and being all upfront and clever about it

whats your response to the ‘ what about all my freezer food’ line?

do you just tell em to get lost or do you pay them for it, after all it is a design fault , so why should they pay?

if your gonna be all smart, at very least be sure that what you say is reasonable

sheesh

[helo_75]

hmm
first thing to check would be the cooling fan near the condenser at the back, its there to cool the transum (the bit that runs around the outside of the doors) if that fails, the transum becomes hot, and the firdge/freezer over work but dont work properly
also, try taking the front kickstrip off, and clearing all the fluff out

good place to start, you not getting any error codes? adverse affects?

hope this helps?

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