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Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantForgot to say that the NTC should be 20K Ohms at 20C
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantIf I have decoded it right then that would be “F13 – NTC Dryer – Open or Short Circuit, Fan Motor Jammed, Condenser or Blower Clogged.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantCheck the valve on the heat exchanger (Front Left at the bottom) as it may well be open circuit – part no: 00631199
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantJust to finish this one off, the customer had been trying to put it into diagnostic mode but instead of going to the error code section they were counting the number of flashing lights (15) not the error code.
When I checked this unit I found that the actual code was E63 (Heater Failure) and that the one shot on the heater was open circuit.
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantThank you both – I will find out the truth when I go to see it on Wednesday – Apparently he had put it on “Just Ask” and they have said that it is a faulty board (believe what you will – I suspect otherwise).
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantThank you Dave
I will drop in and have another look at it now I have the information and see if I can find out what it is moaning about.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantHi Dave
Many thanks for the info.
I forgot the product number in the previous post (I was trying to do too many things at once), it is 7187881500.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantCheck the valve on the heat exchanger (Front Left at the bottom) as it may well be open circuit – part no: 00631199
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
Participantyou may not be aware but a lot of these Maytag washers have got a fluid filled balance ring on the front of the tub – this is always full of fluid (not water) and will give a sloshing sound when turned by hand and is not a fault.
If it is a non drain error code then check the pressure bell for blockage – There are 2 possible locations for the pressure switch
1. It could be mounted on top of the drain pump housing.
2. If it has the pressure switch in the back of the control panel attached to a hose into the back of the tub then what you will need to do is to disconnect the pipe from the pressure switch and pull it back down through the machine till it is only entering the tub, now remove one of the rear paddles from inside the drum, now you should be able the bell and hose (it is one piece of rubber) through the hole behind the paddle and out of the front of the machine.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantYou may want to have a look at the following link where we discussed some issues that I had recently with the card reader.
It turned out for me that the reader was too old and not compatible with the pcb – what part no is your reader and what machine are you trying to program?
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantHi Murv
Yes it appears to have done so (after the 3rd attempt) but have now found that the machine also has a bad display board so have to replace that as well.
I am looking into using the skyprog software as it may well be a cheaper and more reliable soloution long term.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantYou may need to change the OWI (480140101529) – I have had to change one for this fault – check that the lense is not dirty first.
This is my theory on how it works : From Memory it appears to be 3 LEDs behind some moulded lenses with one receiver, I think that the machine will power each one in turn and depending on which one activates the receiver tells it how much water (or not) it has in it.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantHi Murv
I have double checked the pin alignment and have tried programming the module out of the machine while holding the programmer in position.
Last night I decided to attach some wires inside the reader so that I could hook up a logic analyzer and see what is going on – it appears to be talking to both the machine and the card but it is the data stream between reader and module that seems to be stopping.
I don’t have any workshop programming solutions as I am not a service agent so the smart card seems to be my only option. I have just bitten the bullet and purchased a new reader so will see if that sorts things out in a few days.
Would you be able to have a look at your reader and tell me what the code and SW version is on the label – I have got a code of: 16200207901 and Sw: 04.08.08 – I suspect that it may be a case of out of date firmware.Thank you
JemHollytree_Technical
ParticipantIt was an absolute pain to find – it would meter out perfectly then after the temperature had raised a bit it would go open circuit and then come good agian after it got a little hotter (most unusual).
It looks like the default error state on this machine when it has a faulty sensor is to stop everything except the blower motor and it doesn’t display any codes.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantJust to finish this off for future reference this turned out to be caused by one of the NTC temp sensors going intermittent (in my case it was the one in the front of the heater duct).
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