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I don’t know if this is the correct set of instructions but google suggests that you should try the following:
Turn off at wall
Wait 10 seconds
Turn on at wall
Within 1 minute of power on press both the “Mode” and “-” buttons together for 5 secondsJem
They are both plugged in next to each other and the circuit has supposedly been checked by an electrician, the breaker is a type B 32A MCB.
My suspicion is either a design fault or random power surge.
The internals are made by Galanz so I have no idea about their reliability compared to the usual panasonics.
Jem
I have just had a look and it turns out that I have the service manual stashed away for one of these:
According to the manual the E40 will actually be either an E41 or E42 (in engineer mode), it talks about checking the inlet valve and flow meter.
Not sure that I have your email address but if I have then I can send you the manual.
Jem
Yes that looks like the system.
It has got one of these AGM72924807 shock absorbers at the rear but I don’t know if there is supposed to be a damper built into it or not. It also has a similar part (different part no) each side at the front along with a couple of traditional dampers.Jem
Apologies – I missed this one but if you want to provide me with an email address then it appears that I have the service information saved for this one.
Jem
Another thought for you – check what the power rating is for the circuit (is the hob max power more than the breaker?) – you can limit the maximum draw of these hobs in the user settings (Page 18 of the user manual).
Jem
I don’t know the procedure as I have never done one but I think that 15000283 is the test finger.
Jem
Does the temperature revert back to the default start temperature for the cooking mode? If so then I would suspect that it is the program selection switch is very slightly grotty causing it to think that you changed the mode and then put it back again before the display catches up.
Jem
What about the door switch? Some ovens stop the fan and element when it thinks the door is open to save energy – I don’t know if the switch is on the mains voltage side or the low voltage side but if it is on the low voltage side then it may not take much resistance for it to think that the door is open.
Jem
Removing the earth wire for the heater can be a pain in the rear end but the other terminals are for the heater are easily accessible from behind. If I remember rightly there is enough slack on the pressure switch wires for them to stay connected till you can get it to an easier position otherwise just snap the rest of the pressure switch off.
I would remove the heater from the tube first then disconnect the feed to the upper basket from the back wall, then with the machine tipped backwards (45 degrees), it is much easier to wiggle/slide the feed pipe and heater tube down as an assembly to disconnect them. The clamp at the front is a little awkward but I have managed a couple of times to just wiggle the pipe out of it without having to disconnect it first.
Again when reassembling it is much easier to reattach the feed pipe while it is stuck out the bottom of the machine, also reattach the pressure switch wiring before you get it into final position.Jem
I had to ask Aswo the first time that I needed one but now anytime I get a call about one of these machines in antiflood I make sure to take this part with me. There is not an official bulletin for the issue that I know of but the last couple of parts that I recieved were the modified ones.
Jem
The clips breaking off the pressure switch is a common problem – so much so that there is an updated design with a metal bracket clamped round it.
The part no that you need is 0120808373.
Jem
Its usually only the steady lights that are used for the error code so in this case I suspect that it will be a gunged up pressure chamber (it seems to be becoming far more common for some reason).
Jem
