Hollytree_Technical

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 775 total)
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  • in reply to: Blomberg WNF8441AE20 #492359
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Thank you Dave

    I went back today but could not get it into service mode, however looking throught the manual that you sent I see that there is a fault flow chart for if the “Program selection is not functioning” with no error code (page 19), this also asks if the conditioner light is flashing (it was) having confirmed that the selector switch was working properly it also confirms module failure.

    As I can’t find stock of the module anywhere it has been declared BER.

    Jem

    in reply to: Blomberg WNF8441AE20 #492357
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    I don’t know how to get into service mode on it so wasn’t able to try it.
    I don’t think that this one has aquastop on it, all 3 of the wires went direct from the module to the sensor and din’t appear to have anything tapped off anywhere.

    The water level sensor in the machine is an ITW Metaflex small blue bodied unit that is marked “5VDC” however when I look online I find that the replacement is a white bodied unit that says “1=SIG 2=GND 3=SIG”, also when I look at the wiring diagram from Maddocks I find that the connections are listed as “-5V, PRES_1, PRES_2”. As I was struggling to understand why there would be two signal wires I did some poking around the net and found that it looks like the sensor may be okay as apparently that they sometimes move the circuitry that would normally be in the sensor onto the main circuit board and instead just leave the coil and a couple of capacitors within the sensorbody.

    Jem

    in reply to: Hotpoint NDB9635WUK #491924
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    I ended up replacing the module on this one which has cured the fault for a few weeks but it has now come back again.

    Jem

    in reply to: Samsung american Pc-er on display #492285
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    PC-ER is a communications fault between the main pcb and the display PCB.

    Have you checked the wiring especially in the door hinge?

    Jem

    in reply to: Lg fdv909s #492215
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Just to finish this one off:

    I suspect that this is a known problem that is not admitted by LG as the old main board had a fusible resistor (approx 3 watt power rating) incased in a fiberglass sleeve that was definatly blown but I was unable to find any other damage and as far as I could tell none of the inverter outputs were shorted. The new main board has got a ceramic block resistor (somewhere in the 5 to 10 watt range) instead.

    Jem

    in reply to: Bosch WDU28561GB/01 #492267
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Thank you

    Sounds like I need to go back and play a bit more – I may even take the oscilloscope to try and watch the dbus signal, do we know if it is supposed to idle high or low etc?
    I assume that the 3G sensor on the motor and the sensor on the rear of the cabinet may be on the network? You don’t happen to have a wiring diagram and error code list for it do you? This machine is of course in an awkward location and a bit of a contortionist job to access the back of it.

    Jem

    in reply to: AEG FSK322610Z pnc911539278 #492032
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Check the circuit board as per this post: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/trade-member-forums/trade-technical-spare-parts-forums/trade-technical-enquiries/48638-simple-pcb-repair-tips?p=891570#post891570

    You can just remove the relevant capacitor as a quick test to confirm it if you are still unsure.

    Jem

    in reply to: Bosch condenser dryer WTB84200/9 #491792
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Have you tried running a tap through the filter? I have found on some of these filters that they will look clean but the mesh will be full of micro dirt, if this is the case then the water will puddle on the filter instead of going straight through, usually rubbing the filter between your fingers while putting the water through will be enough to clean them.

    Jem

    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    I would check for broken wiring to the NTC – I suspect that it may be broken inside the insulation, if so then it may well part when tugged.

    Jem

    in reply to: SIMPLE PCB REPAIR TIPS #309743
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Just to add a word of warning to Dave’s post above after having done a couple of these myself:

    When this chip fails on this particular board there is no other way for the 300V cap to discharge itself so it will remain charged almost indefinatley so make sure to handle the board with extreme care till you can verify that it is no longer charged otherwise it will bite (trust me it hurts).

    Jem

    in reply to: Nordmende dryer #491479
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    The service manual is on ASWO if you have access, if not then check your inbox as I have sent one to you.

    All drying LEDs lighting is listed as “E08 Voltage Fluctuation”

    Jem

    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    If the drum is able to be turned easily by hand then I would suggest that you may want to pull the agitator out and check the drive block (C00311287) and the top of the brake tube (W10820043), if the tabs at the top of the tube are bent or damaged then the tube may spin within the block instead of turning the block and drum.

    If the top of the tube is okay then you will need to pull the gearbox out, at this point it will be worth checking the bottom of the brake tube carefully as there is a sintered metal thrust bearing at the bottom, this is normally a couple of mm thick and just above it is the circlip that holds the white plastic brake release pawl, I have seen cases where this bearing has worn away allowing the circlip and pawl to drop/twist out of position, if this has happened then you will also need the neutral drain kit for the gearbox.

    If both the top and bottom of the break tube look good then you may need to clean/lubricate the pivot points for the brake pads and pawl as the brakes should automatically apply when the motor stops.

    If all this looks good then it will probably be a gearbox issue.

    P.S. If you want to you can take the cabinet off and then taking the lock off the cabinet and plugging it back into the harness (or using a suitable bit of wire to jump the terminals) you can then observe the clutch (put a sharpie mark on it so that it is easier to see) while it is supposedly trying and failing to spin, if the clutch spins but the drum doesn’t then it is not the gearbox.

    Jem

    in reply to: Beko WDIK752451 – Condensor Leak #491246
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Thank you Dave, looks like my customers machine falls right in the middle of the affected range.

    Jem

    in reply to: Miele G5191SCVI (57/01086122) Dishwasher Error Code: F14 #491197
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Yes that will be the pressure switch that it is moaning about, it is not easy to test the switch in situ as it is in the middle of the machine on the side of the pump, it is often easier to test from the control panel, it is 2 x changeover switches in the one body. If you haven’t found/got it already then http://applianceservicesecretsmembership.com_manuals.s3.amazonaws.com/Miele/Miele+G1000+G2000+Dishwasher+Dec+06.pdf is worth a read.

    I have changed several of these switches to cure this problem, they are usually either gunged up or starting to short to earth.

    Jem

    in reply to: Beko ASPM341PX #491144
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Many thanks

    Jem

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 775 total)