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I would need the 20 digit serial number to make sure that I was in the right service manual but picking one at random would suggest that it is:
E06 – Motor Failure – 1 (Tachometer Open-Short circuit or Motor Connector Is Disconnected).Jem
Hi Dave
Thank you but I think that you forgot to attach the manual.
The customer has just rung it in as a proper job as the noise has come back (suspecting freezer fan).
Jem
Hi Dave
Sorry but I don’t remember if we ever got to the bottom of it, I think it got put down to a possible damp/insulation fault.
Jem
It sounds like it is stuck in “Neutral drain” for some reason.
This could be due to one of the pawls or spring in the gearbox being worn (normally causes it to not have neautral drain) in which case you need to get a “388253 Neutral Drain Kit”.
The other option is if the motor doesn’t momentarily pause after draining for 2 minutes (controlled by timer) then it won’t engage the spin gear.Jem
I haven’t managed to get the serial number for the unit as getting information from the customer is like pulling teeth but I did manage to get the product no of 7523120007
Jem
Here are a couple of pointers / background principles for you, they should apply to almost any fridge freezer with a mains water fed automatic icemaker and water dispenser.
Water valve: [INDENT]One valve output feeds the cold water and the other is purely for the icemaker
[/INDENT]
Water Dispenser: [INDENT]When the user calls for water the water valve will open allowing water to flow into the reservoir tank in the fridge, out the front pipe behind the plinth, up through the door hinge and then out the nozzle in the door to the waiting glass. In practice it will push the cold water from the reservoir bottle out to the glass allowing the water that has just come in through the valve to get chilled ready for next time.[/INDENT]Ice Maker: [INDENT]Most of these icemakers work on the same basic principle: When the ice is turned on the unit will fill the icemaker tray with water, this will then be frozen at which point the ice will be tipped out (or in some cases scooped) into the holding bucket in the fridge, this process will repeat approximatley every 45minutes to an hour till the bucket is full at which point it will stop making new ice till the level in the bucket goes down.
When the user presses the button to call for ice a flap in the door will open in the chute, an auger (Large corkscrew) will pull some ice in the bucket to the chute and depending on if the user has selected crushed or cubed a flap at the top will either direct the ice through the blades or let it drop.If you want to test the mechanical functionality of the ice maker (including water) then take the bucket out from inside the unit, place some form of bowl/dish below the ice maker then press and hold the test button (located on the bottom of the ice maker) for a couple of seconds, this will cause the ice tray to twist and dispense any ice/water within, the arm on the side will also come down (how the unit checks to see if the bucket is full), the unit will then pause for a few seconds before returning to its start position at which point it should activate the water valve which will then put some water into the tray.
[/INDENT]
In your case it sounds like the water valve is okay (at least on the cold water side), if when it is all hooked up you can hear the water flowing when you press the button then either the system is starting from empty (in which case hold the button and wait 30 seconds for the reservoir etc to fill up) or you have a leak, if you don’t see a puddle on the floor then check the hose from the valve to the point that it enters the fridge as they can crack at which point it will fill the drip tray. If you can’t hear the water flow then disconnect it at the bottom of the door and see if it will dispense into a bucket, if it won’t then the bottle is probably frozen, I have never had a blocked pipe.Hope that helps.
Jem
ASWO has the service manual for this one – would need the serial number to get the exact right version though, I picked one at random and got this list:
- E03 = Aquaswitch connector is disconnected
- E04 = Heater connector is disconnected
- E05 = Heater NTC is disconnected
- E06 = Door NTC is disconnected
- E08 = Voltage fluctuation
Door NTC = 12K @ 20C
Heater NTC = 19.5K @ 20CHope that helps
Jem
Electrolux DW with the rear mounted main board.
Fault: Filling constantly as soon as power is turned on.Replace Capacitor C3065, It may show as a high or low resistance on a multimeter but anything other than open ciruit is bad.
C3065 should be a 10nF 1206 capacitor, I use RS Part No: 135-6841
Capacitors C3109 and C3103 are also the same value/type and can fail in the same way but I forgot to check which outputs they control.Jem
Thank you Dave.
Should make it easier to sort out – its always “fun” :rolleyes: being the second one to have to fix it.
Jem
NTC Values should be as follows: [TABLE=”border: 1, cellpadding: 1″]
[TR]
[TD]Temperature (C)[/TD]
[TD]Resistance (Ohms)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]25[/TD]
[TD]19500[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]30[/TD]
[TD]15760[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]35[/TD]
[TD]12825[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]40[/TD]
[TD]10506[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]45[/TD]
[TD]8660[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]50[/TD]
[TD]7181[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]55[/TD]
[TD]5989[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]60[/TD]
[TD]5022[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]65[/TD]
[TD]4233[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]70[/TD]
[TD]3586[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]75[/TD]
[TD]3053[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]80[/TD]
[TD]2610[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]85[/TD]
[TD]2242[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]90[/TD]
[TD]1933[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]95[/TD]
[TD]1674[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]Hope that helps.
Jem
Having now seen the unit it turns out that there are a couple of large surface mount resistors on the inverter board that had become partially desoldered, having cleaned them up and resoldered them the unit is now working again with a message from the customer to say that it had reached temperature this morning..
Jem
