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I also use the Fluke 1587 and it hasn’t ever let me down – had it for nearly 15 years now and only replaced the leads and batteries.
Jem
Usually need to replace the wash pump to cure it, more often than not I have found the front bearing on this pump to be shot allowing the impellor to flop around and bind up.
Jem
I believe that the temperature sensor NTC values are different on some of them, also the size of the impellor and resistance value of the motor windings can vary.
Jem
Have you checked if the valve on the heat exchanger is okay – these are common to go open circuit.
Jem
Hi Dave
Looks like you managed to find a more comprehensive bulletin than I did as the one that I was looking at only showed the Kit B info.
Thank you
Jem
Thank you Dave
That has already told me about a heater in the back wall of the fridge that I didn’t know about.
Jem
You can buy the chip seperatly, You will need to examine the chip on the board to find the correct part number after which you can usually get them from RS or ASWO
Jem
It sounds to me like the power supply chip on the main board is internally overheating and going into shutdown, I would change the power supply chip as this is the most likley cause. I have replaced a couple of chips for this issue on this series of dishwasher and it has cured it every time.
Jem
There appears to be an error in the model no as I can’t find it.
Also have you double checked that it isn’t child lock?Jem
I would suggest that the fridge evaporater is probably frozen blocking the air flow.
Check the fridge side defrost heater (common failure), also if the evaporater cover has ice on the front of it (behind the water bottle if it has one) or feels heavy when you take it off to see the evaporater then it will also need replacing as the polysterene will be saturated with water and no longer insulating.Also check if service kit DA81-01997A has been fitted (I can send you the info if you give me an email address) – this is all about a known defrost issue that may be the cause of your problem.
Jem
You don’t say which industrial code you have but I have got the manual saved for a AQC94F7EM1UK 859990784970 (Arcadia) machine which confirms that F03 is the front NTC and gives a value of 49K – 51K @ 25C and 5.974K – 6.588K @ 80C
I can send you what I have if you let me have an email address.
Jem
I doubt that the pin numbers will be the same, I don’t have the diagrams specifically for your model but do have the diagrams for a SI-10T6-L-G which looks like it may use the same switches (there appear to be 2 or 3 possible switch manufacturers on each diagram).
If you let me have an email address then I can send you what I have if that helps.
Jem
Have you checked that the cooling fan is running?
If a TOC starts as OL when cold and then goes to 0.3Ohms when hot then it is probably the cut in stat for the cooling fan.
I would expect the stat that is cutting out the oven to start at 0.3Ohms and the go OL when hot.
It might also be worth checking if the cooling fan is wired through the selector switch as on some of their ovens it is meant to turn on as soon as the oven is turned on – I don’t now if that is definatley the case with this one so you would need to chase the wires to make sure.Looking at the parts photos/descriptions on AEGs website it appears that both the stats that are mounted by ears are cut out but the one that is mounted by its own threaded stub is the cooling fan cut in.
Jem
According to a service manual for a similar machine:
F14: Rear NTC Over Heating
Check the Cycling Thermostat is operating correctly.
Check the Machines Filter is Clean.
Check the machines air flow for blockages.
Check the machines Plinth and air vents are not obstructed or blocked.
Check the NTC and attached Circuit and Connections.Jem
