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Just to finish this one, I went back and went through the whole machine including the motor but could not find any problems so we came to the conclusion that the motor must be failing under load but we will never know for sure as the customer has decided to scrap the machine rather than keep throwing money at it.
Jem
Just found this in one of the USA service manuals online – a different model no but looks very similar.
12.4.21 Replacement Of Low Ambient Heater
This element is mounted in the return grill of the divider and is not replaceable. A replacement element can be
fitted onto the rear of the air duct. It is of the blanket wire type on an aluminium tape stuck to the grill itself.
1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
2. Remove all the PC shelving and crisper bins.
3. Remove the PC duct cover.
4. Remove the PC air return grill and unplug the element from the harness.
5. Peel the backing off the replacement element and attach the new element to the rear of the return
grill.
6. Connect the element to the harness.Jem
I don’t know this particular machine but have you checked the wiring harness in the door hinge as these newer dishwashers are terrible for breaking them.
Jem
Whenever I have encountered this fault it tends to be because the main pump bearings are shot causing it to run slow, you will probably need to take the pump out to check.
Jem
I know that the door heater is known as the “Flapper Heater” so it isn’t that.
The wiring diagram in the document that I am referencing shows it as being in the “Provision compartment” – this is their term for “fridge”, all of the other info that I have found suggests that it may be in a “divider” and that its purpose is to keep the “Provision compartment” above freezing so my thought would be to try taking out the internal back wall of the fridge and checking there as I think that is where it is most likley to be hidden.Sorry that I can’t be more specific but its been a few months since I last saw one these units and I don’t see them very often and haven’t had to deal with this fault.
Jem
Here is the info that I have for Error 13:
Fault Code 13
Reason: The low ambient heater is drawing less current than
expected. Either the heater or wiring is open circuit or the
heater is faulty.
Primary Action: Check the wiring and connections at both heater and power
module.
Secondary Action: Check the low ambient heater resistance. If not within limits,
replace.Jem
I know that I tested the machine as a whole but don’t remeber if I did a specific one on the motor as i didn’t suspect the motor till after I got home.
Jem
The service manual is avaialable on ASWO for this one but I can send it to you if you don’t have access.
I don’t see the error code that you mentioned in either the instruction book or the service manual.
According to the manual bothe the door and compressor NTC sensors are a nominal 12K Ohm.Jem
I haven’t had to deal with this particular clock unit but have seen the same issue on some hopoint clocks and it is usually the X2 clas capacitor that causes it.
Jem
Thankyou Dave, Its a pity that they don’t put that one in the manual, I will have a chat with the customer tomorrow and see if it can be resolved over the phone.
Jem
According to ASWO there are 5 versions of this machine, they also have got DC92-00235G in stock if you need it.
Jem
Did you confirm that it is the correct part no that you fitted as according to a translated document that I have there are 2 possible boards depending on which motor and wiring harness is fitted?
Measure the laminated iron stack on the motor, if it is 46mm then it should be DC92-01223A, if however it is 35mm then it is DC92-00235G.
Also worth double checking that the wiring to the motor is good if you haven’t already.
Jem
Thanks Dave
I dropped in on the customer on my way home earlier and it looks like this unit will be scrapped as it is impossible to repair any of the defrost components without regassing the appliance – what a stupid design!
Jem
I would suggest the it most likley to be power supply failure on the main board. Try taking the main board out and then listen for the relays to click a few seconds after you plug it in, if there is nothing then you can be confident that it is this board at fault, you can also take the case off and check for 5 volts on the unused programming connector on the bottom edge of the board.
This one confused me for a while on a Bosch version of the machine because I didn’t realise that the display panel has got its own power supply built in.Jem
