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My observations/thoughts are based soley off of the parts photos so take them with a pinch of salt:
The low voltage that is required for the processors is generated entirley on the left hand PC board.
1. If you can get it to play up in front of you then you should be able to disconnect the right hand board (low voltage cables), If the right hand board is your cause then it will probably spring back to life and show some codes but if it is still dead then you know that it isn’t that board.
2. You could just try to run it for a while with the right hand board disconneted and see if it still fails.
3. You can try testing the DC voltage between the boards, it looks like there is a 4 pin connector at the end of each PC board with voltages labelled.
4. If it is going dead while in use and then maybe coming back (especially if turned off at the wall for a while) then I would think that the most likley cause of the failure is the power supply chip on the left hand PC board (7 pin chip located next to the large electrolytic capacitors), you can try warming it with a hair dryer to see if that causes it to fail quicker, otherwise I would be tempted to just replace that chip anyway to see what happens.Jem
Sometimes I will have to pull and push the water (note: don’t bother using air as it doesn’t seem to have enough power) quite fast through the pressure trap to get it to shift the gunge but you will usually see the gunge floating into the sump fairly quickly.
The pressure switch has to be activated by the time the machine has come to the end of the static fill (2.5L of water), if there is gunge in the trap then it may test out okay when you fill it manually but it is too slow to react in time when the machine does it which will cause the error to be thrown (guess who bought a board one day because they didn’t realise this was what was happening
).Anyway i have emailed you the service manual plus a load of other documents that I had saved against that model no.
Jem
I think that this would be Error 5 – “Pressure Switch Non Compliant”, In every case that I have had this error it has been caused by gunge in the air trap and I have usually had to put a couple of litres of water into the machine and then fire water down the pressure tube from the switch end to clear it.
I have got some service manuals saved for a HEFC2B19CUK which I think is a very similar machine if you need them.
Jem
I have had this before on a similar model and it turned out to be faulty surface mount capacitors on the circuit board – there are 2 or 3 places on the board where they put a capacitor and resistor in series accross the triac to prevent electrical spikes, these capacitor can crack and go short ciruit.
Jem
A heat pump dryer doesn’t really “heat” – it is more like a dehumidifier in a box.
If you have a current clamp then check the current to the compressor:
- if it sits at around 0.3 to 1.0 amp draw constantly then the compressor is running.
- if it spikes to roughly 10 amps for a few seconds before dropping to 0 (often with an audible click) then it is either mechanicaly locked up or the starter circuit isn’t working.
- if it doesn’t draw anything but there is voltage then check the cutout on the top of the compressor.
If it is running then after a few minutes there should be a noticable difference in the input and output pipes of the compressor.
Jem
If you take the front bottom panel off then you should find a wiring diagram attached to the inside (Note Of Caution: I have come once or twice come across the incorrect ones being inside).
Most parts for these are available but not under the whirlpool or hotpoint UK numbers, instead you may need the numbers that are on the parts themselves.
Assuming that the thermal fuse on the exhaust duct is good then I would set the timer to a program running position and check for continuity from the following:
- White wire of motor up to the door switch (or Neutral).
- Blue wire of motor up to Live (while pressing the start button).
If these test out as okay then the timer is good, alternatively you can go the large connector block at the back of the console and test between the blue and white wires, you should get a reading of around 10 ohms (this is the circuit through the motor).
In my experiance when the motors fail they either let out the magic smoke or buzzing loudly and blow the fuse.
Jem
No they don’t charge extra for dispatching backorders nor do they seem to require another order before dispatching but instead send it immediatley (all be it possibly by a slower method).
Any time that they decide to charge extra it is usually stated in the item decription when you go to add it to the basket.Jem
If the fuse is gone then the timer wouldn’t be ticking away as it is also in line to the timer.
My suggestions would be to check
- That the belt hasn’t snapped or come off of the tensioner (there is a switch that detects the tensioner being loose).
- Check the thermal fuse on the exhaust duct (two blue wires) as this is inline with the motor on these.
- Do you hear any buzz from the motor when you press the start switch? if so then you may have a bad motor or centrifugal switch.
There is usually a wiring diagram on the inside of the lower cover but if you need any service info then let me have an email and I can send it to you.
Jem
Looking in the all the service manuals that I have lists E73 as “Fault in NTC sensor on drying duct (voltage out of range, short-circuit or open circuit)”
I agree with Dave on this one – remove the tape from the wires to the NTC on the dryer duct and you will probably find the fault.
Jem
My suggestion on the Liquor Reservoir is admittedly a shot in the dark as well as being based on some reading in between the lines and therefore may be totally wrong, however I will try to explain my reasoning below:
Here are some assumptions that i made:
- You say that it washes continuously which suggests that the machine is waiting for a process to finish, you only assumed that this is drainage.
- You said that it heats but don’t mention whether the tablet dispenser was activated – if not then it is probably waiting for something else other than drainage.
- The drain pump works at the start and at reset so unless it is a corrupted program (very unusual) then it is unlikley to be the pump (not impossible but low on the list).
- The service manual talks about using the liquor reservoir early in the cycle on “Star Speed” and “Turbo 20” programs – these are program names that I have never seen but maybe our “Quick Wash” programs are the english equivalent, also thanks to the EU all modern machines turn on on the “Eco” program which also uses the reservoir (I am assuming that the customer doesn’t change to a different program).
- I don’t see any specific codes for the Liquor Reservoir and as these machines use the pumps as virtual sensors for the water level it could be waiting to sense that the reservoir is full before moving on.
- From the images on the Bosch site it looks like the there is only one hose intoand out of the reservoir so it must have to actuate the actuator for both filling and emptying of this tank.
I would be thinking about checking the following (as well as any other ideas that you have):
- Does the detergent dispenser open in the cycle?
- Does the liquor reservoir actuator get power at any time? It looks like it is a wax actuator so will need to be powered for a minute or so to open.
- What is the resistance of the liquor actuator – should be around 800 to 1200 Ohms when cold.
Jem
Sorry it should have said “Liquor Reservoir”, that is Bosch’s name for the extra tank on the parts list for the machine, either way it’s function is described on page 67 of the manual that I linked.
Jem
I notice that this machine has a “Liquid Reservoir” on the right hand side of the machine, could it be that the actuator here has failed as I think that it should be trying to fill it at certain points in the cycle.
Also here is a service manual that i have found that seems to cover most of the newer machines.
https://elektrotanya.com/bosch_800-plus_series_dishwasher.pdf/download.html#dlJem
If it is leaking on the final rinse then there is a known issue and technical bulletin which possibly applies to your machine.
Have a look at the upper hopper cover and you should see a rectangular shaped hole with a sloped tang, this may have a load of flashing on it which is what causes the leak, try removing the flashing and see if that cures it.If you let me have an email address then I will send you the technical bulletin.
Jem
