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I went on ebay and bought a 13.5mm Blacksmith Drill Bit, these have a reduced shank so will fit a 13mm chuck, typically I have only had to do one since but it made it easier.
Jem
It looks like I have got one stashed away on the computer so if you let me have an email then i will send you what I have.
If I rememeber correctly then I think that you have to replace the whole gearbox on these to do the bearings.Jem
Have you tried disconnecting the dryer element as any earth leak at around 3meg or below will often lock up the control board.
Jem
I have had this before on a similar model and it turned out to be faulty surface mount capacitors on the circuit board – there are 2 or 3 places on the board where they put a capacitor and resistor in series accross the triac to prevent electrical spikes, these capacitor can crack and go short ciruit.
Jem
If you do need to buy a board then you can get them pre-programmed (at no extra charge) from ASWO if you can’t do them yourself.
Jem
Easiest place to test the valve electrically is to go the back of the machine and pop out the panel where the hoses enter the machine, there is a connector on the back of the panel for the valve. You should get the usual 3.5K to 4.5K resistance reading, also if the resistance is good you can put a current clamp round one of the wires to see if it gets powered at all.
Jem
Yes a faulty board will cause the drum to be stiff to turn, it means that the output driver on the board is shorted out, think of it as acting like an alternator/generator where you are now trying to generate electricity into a dead short (100s of amps), you can see the effect if you want by unplugging the motor from the pcb then connecting 2 of the motor pins together and trying to turn it.
If you disconnect the motor then test between the 3 output pins on the pcb then you will probably find that at least 2 of them may be shorted together, you can also test between the outputs and the terminals of the large electrolytic capacitor to find the partial shorts.Jem
I can’t say if it is common or not but I have had to change at least one of the touch panels for this fault.
Jem
Thankyou
ASWO is suggesting that 263100021 is the new part no – or is it just an equivalent alternative?
Jem
From memory it goes something like this:
- Remove Top.
- Remove Right Hand Side.
- Loosen Control Panel and leave hanging.
- Remove Left Hand Side.
- Remove Heater Cover.
- Remove heater Duct
- Disconnet heater and power at the top right corner.
- Disconnect tank hoses at the bottom.
- Unscrew the back panel from the chassis
- Pull back panel complete with drum and water tank holder backwards out of the machine.
- Remove fan cover and front fan.
- Now you can fit the new belt to the motor shaft and then reassemble in reverse order (sliding the belt over the drum as you do so but don’t tension it till you are at the stage of putting the side panels back on).
I may have forgotten a couple of small steps and you can do it without completly removing the drum. All in all it is usually not to bad of a job, it just has a fair number of screws and bits to remove.
Also if you haven’t seen the machine yet then I would also advise taking a new tension roller with you as it seems to me that they also need to be replaced about 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time.Jem
Thank you
Yes that looks like it.
For some reason ASWO seems to think that it is a gas cooker but using the part number off of the side of the selector switch 263100032 shows 2 very different switches – I am sure that I could figure it out on site but prefer having a diagram as bakup if possible.Jem
I wondered about that but the caps measured okay both on capacitance and ESR results, my suspicion is more with relay bounce (not cleanly switching) but I couldn’t prove it and the machine was too far away to make multiple trips to test either theory, either way I fitted the module back to the machine last friday, I know that they were going to be using it all weekend and have heard nothing to say that it has failed yet.
Jem
Well just to close this one off – I don’t know for definate which component was the cause but I replaced all of the electrolytic caps and the 3 larger relays on the main board and it appears to have cured it.
Jem
