[Hollytree_Technical]

Is rinse hold turned on?
Is it draining the water quickly enough?
It is only a 1.5Kg max load on this program so is it overloaded?

Does it attempt to balance the load and spin or does it not do any of that?

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I don’t know but the one that I have been dealing with was down to around 3Mohm, it could be dropping when it warms up.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Have you checked the insulation resistance of the elements?

I have a Bosch one on the go with the same symptoms so just before christmas I disconnected the cooker elements as both were low (but not a fail) on the insulation resistance and it has apparently been running fine since then.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

The pressure switch in these is NOT used for overfill but as a saftey device for the heater control system, I have had several similar machines where the air trap has become blocked, I have usually managed to clear the air trap by blowing through it when there is water in the machine.

Here is a couple of excerpts from a service manual for you:

Filling Sequence
1. Static Fill of 2.5 litres measured by the Fill Turbine.
2. The module checks the state of the Pressure Switch
– if Pressure Switch reaches Full Position – Move to step 3.
– if Pressure Switch at Empty Position – then Pressure Switch Fault Code displays.
3. Dynamic Fill up to 4 litres measured by Fill Turbine.
4. The module checks state of the Pressure Switch.
– if Pressure Switch Full Position reached – Programme Continues to Wash.
– if Pressure Switch at Empty Position, fills with a maximum of 5.5 litres of water measured
by Fill Turbine.
If the Pressure Switch is still in the Empty Position, the machine will drain and continues
with the cycle. No Fault Code is displayed.
The Water Level in normal conditions is almost up to the top of the filter.

Key: Static Fill = Fill with Wash Pump Off || Dynamic Fill = Fill with Wash Pump On

Pressure Switch
The pressure switch controls the overall volume of water inside the tub
and signals if the heater can be turned on.
This is a low voltage type switch.
The pressure switch and associated wiring is Low Voltage
(12 volts and 10 mA) with RAST 2.5 connector.
The pressure switch indicates the full state only (appliance filled with
water).
Empty level is signalled when the pressure switch is not signalling Full.

Hope that helps

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

The most common causes in my experiance are:

• Leaking from the side or rear joint of the stainless steel tub to plastic tub base – needs repair set 11038786 to fix.
• The water inlet side seal where it comes into the tub – 00623541 – this will usually (but not always) be able to be diagnosed by looking at where the drain hoses connect to the metering tank and seeing if there is staining on top of the connection.
• On a couple of rare occasions I have also seen the sump leak at where it joins to the tub base but only when it gets hot, this seems to cause staining on top of the heat pump element casing – this fault is far more common with the machines with a stainless steel bottom to the tub rather than the plastic bottomed ones.

Hope that helps

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I have only seen a couple of the LG dishwashers and one of them had this fault.
You will need to replace the conductive foam and braid pad for the button (ASWO part no: H634252 Seal), in my experience it seems to be that the foam pad no longer presses up against the plastic front panel causing it to fail to sense the button.

I have a customer where this same fault has happened twice with the same machine within 18 months so they have asked if there is a better fix (I replaced the whole button module the first time) so I have tried the following. If you can find them then bosch used to use a black conductive foam peanut that uses a firmer foam, if you cut one of these to a tight fit then it works just as well and I suspect may last longer than the LG ones (this is what I am currently trying), I have also heard rumours that a piece of scrunched up tin foil works as well but haven’t tried it personally.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Here is an excerpt from a service manual of a similiar machine that mat help:

If, during the wash cycle, the Wash Pump (functioning as Virtual Sensor) senses a Clogged Filters/
Suds situation, the main board will reduce the motor rpm by 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}.
If the situation stabilizes, the problem will be identified as “Suds” and the pump continues operating
at the new speed.
If the pump continues to struggle (condition 3: build-up of suds or filters clogged),
the speed will be reduced by a further 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} and the problem identified as “Clogged Filters”. If the
situation stabilizes, the pump will continue operating at the new speed.
If the problem persists, the machine will begin to top up with water until there are
5.5 litres in the tub or until the problem is overcome (whichever occurs first).
If the problem still persists (even after 5.5 litres of water have entered), the machine
will drain and the program skips to the next step of the cycle.

[Hollytree_Technical]

You don’t give a model/serial number so I can’t check for certain but I think that the following document may be what you need.
http://www.hollytreetechnical.co.uk/images/UK_Whitegoods/Rangemaster_Induction/Basic{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20Induction{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20Training.pdf

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

While I have not seen this specific model I can say that I have had multiple instances of electrolux water valve coils going open circuit after a couple of minutes of use (usually the dryer valve coil) but when left they come back again so you have to catch them in the act.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Thankyou Dave

Much Appreciated

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

My multimeter will accept k Type thermocouples so I use these:
Thermocouple – https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0142SKL0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adapter – <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083BVGCG9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jem” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083BVGCG9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Looking at the parts manual that I have stashed away on the PC it looks like the thermostat is serial number dependent:
Upto 51009…. C00194621 (Thermostat Only)
From 51010… C00382637 (Thermostat and microswitch)

These parts also appear in the manual but with no mention if it matters which thermostat they are used on
C00193862 (Ignition Switch)
C00241089 (Switch Holder)
C00196351 (Spacer Disc For Knob)

Hope that helps

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Have you checked the door lock? Most Miele machines run power from the board then through the door lock and back to the board.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Also try the test mode – it can be little finnicky to get into at times but works quite well and is usefull for finding out what does and doesn’t respond.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I have just sent you the service info.

The shifter has got an optical sensor on it so it may be worth double checking that it is clean, also take the shifter off and try moving the mechanism by hand to make sure it isn’t bound up.

Jem

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