[Hollytree_Technical]

Its possibly a problem with the mode shifter but if you let me have an email address then I can send you the service info.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

You should have an email with some info.

I don’t know if this will help but I had a look at my spares shelves and I have only got a power board for one of the original G5s in stock but I have had a look at it to see if I can come up with anything that may help you. It looks like they hide a surface mount temperature senser under the edge of each heatsink between the pairs of IGBT transistors, when I measured the ones on the module I have here they came out at approx 4K ohms, I would assume that they would do similar on the additional power module.
I would suggest checking all of the temperature sensors on the rings to see if they come out the same then have a look a the ones on the power modules.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

It is recognized on the rangemaster spares site and appears to use the G5 Mk2 induction unit. Error E2 is listed as “Excess temperature of the induction element” – this is not a fault that I have had to deal with personally but my first thought is that this may be a dodgy temperature sensor on of the elements, does the fault code show on all positions or just one zone?

I may be able to send you a parts list tomorrow if you let me have an email address.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I had one where it had an intermittent connection to one of the thermostats on the element (broken spot weld).

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

The other leak point that I have seen a few of is the seal between the water matrix and the vent in the side of the tank.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I would definatley check the wiring in the door hinge carefully as I have seen multiple machines with broken wires here causing display issues.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

According to the service manual it is listed as “Oven Probe No Delta”

If you let me have an email address then I can send you what little info I have.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

With the power off unplug the motor then test the resistance between the 3 wires coming to the motor from the inverter (not the motor), if you get a low resistance or short then it is a faulty inverter board.
It is also a rarity for a inverter driven motor to electrically fail as they don’t have any moving electrical components but it is common for the circuit baords that drive them to fail – this applies to all makes.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I have also just had an email from these people out of the blue which I have put the relaevant part of below (this doesn’t contain any job request):

INSTRUCTIONS FOR CALL OUT

PURPOSE
As a part of our Warranty Plan, this call out is complimentary/FREE where customer need not pay for the engineer visit. It is just the initial check to confirm if the appliance is working fine or not.
CALL OUT PROCEDURE
Following steps are required while performing call out:
Step 1. Will send you the job with customer details and Customer Form
Step 2. Once you accept the job, we would need an invoice (required upfront to log the job in our system) in our company’s name with our address and other details as mentioned below along with the customer details
Company name:- Domestic Repairs
Address:- Domestic Repairs
124 City Road
London
EC1V 2NX
Contact no:-02038934843
Email:- service@warranty-assist.co.uk

Step 3. Call the customer to book an appointment for a visit to check if the machine is working fine or not and remind them that it is a FREE routine check up and does not require any payment & it comes free with their warranty plan.
Step 4. After job completion, take some pictures of the washing machine and signature of the customer on the form provided.
Step 5. Email us the below at service@warranty-assist.co.uk
1. Pictures of the Washing Machine
2. Invoice for the customer
3. Signed Customer Form(DR Form)
Step 6. After we receive all the details, payment would be made within 48 to 72 hours.
*****************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Feel free to email me for any further questions if you have and I would be happy to answer that.

We are also updating our database, so can you please confirm which postcodes do you cover.

Can you please revert asap.

There are a couple of rather loud alarm bells ringing for me:

• The office listed in the email is a virtual one that is listed here https://www.yourvirtualofficelondon.co.uk/ which means that they are not actually working at the address listed.
• A google search of the address brings up https://www.repairaid.co.uk at exactley the same address.
• The website that Ally found is far too simple with all of the facebook, twitter, linkedin and Youtube links going to their contact page and not out to the social media platforms.
• Google searching for Warranty Assist only brings a car warrenty scheme which only has good reviews from traders and bad from customers.
• The quality of english in the email is not great and suggests that they may be based abroad.
• Googling the phone number on the http://old.directionshaircolour.co.uk/index.php brings up another site http://www.domesticrepairs.net/index.php
• There is no companies house number listed on the site.

I think that I will steer clear but thought that the info might help others.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

electrofix wrote:
A lot of these old valves can be stripped. coils can be swopped and the stems unscrew so you can also swop diaphragm.
sensor will likely be a reed sw. cant remember if there were hall effect ic’s in 2003

I suspect that it is a hall effect sensor as it is a 3 wire unit and unfortinatley it is the sensor that I suspect of being faulty as the unit will fill with water till it activates the overfill level on the pressure switch. It also looks like the sensor is potted into the holder but I didn’t have time to get the valve out to fully investigate it as the customer had to go out.

kwatt wrote:That’s not the model as all Lamona are HJA or LAM then four digits barring a few oddball exceptions but the serial number is Servis so, it will be obsolete I expect. Pretty much all parts will be.

But, without that model on these, it’s impossible to find much of anything at all.

I thought it starange when he said it was a Howdens kitchen, my thought was MFI but either way there are no other markings or labels on the machine so I knew that it would be a long shot.

Thank you

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I would definitley suggest blowing back through it when there is water in the sump – I may have in the past changed both the turbine and module on a dishwasher before finding the partial blockage (expensive mistake). In my case the switch would be activated but its response was being delayed by the detritus so it was not activated till after the board had checked for it.

The way I worked it out in my case may be beyond most peoples capabilites as i had to measure the frequency from the turbine and time how long it filled for, I found in a service manual that the turbine gives 217 pulses per Litre, after this it took a little bit of maths to work out how many seconds it took to get 2 litres after which I measured the pressure switch while timing a fill to see if it activated in time or not (in my case it took around 2.5 litres before the switch activated by which time it had tripped the code).

If it is aborting before the wash pump kicks in then it is at the end of the “static fill” phase of the cycle where it has measured 2 litres of water with the turbine but has not sensed it with the pressure switch (approx 1.7L required to activate), once the wash pump starts then it is in the “dynamic fill” stage of the program at which point it starts detecting blocked filters etc.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

What is the Industrial code for this machine?
Does this one have a pressure switch fitted? (only 1 of the 3 industrial codes does)
Does the wash pump start before it aborts?

The info I have suggests that lights 1 + 3 would be “Pressure switch non compliant” in which case I would suggest the following
This assumes that the wash pump doesn’t run and that the machine does have a pressure switch, I would suggest filling the machine with a couple of litres of water and then blowing hard and fast down the pressure switch hose from the pressure switch end to see if a load of crap comes out. (I can tell you from bitter experiance that I have had a similar model where I could blow through the hose while the machine was empty without issue but there was a blockage that would block it off every time the machine filled with water).

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

Have you checked the filters? The machine checks to see if the filters are blocked during the second stage (Dynamic fill – pump running and solenoid valve on) of filling, if they are then it will abort the cycle without an error code.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I have only seen one Bosch machine with this error and can say that in my case the inverter board was definatley blown though the customer decided to replace the machine rather than repair it so I can’t rule out any other issues.

Jem

[Hollytree_Technical]

I don’t have a wiring diagram for this unit but I would suspect that TR7 may well supply the power to the wash pump.
Have you also checked for broken/damaged wires in the door hinge?

Jem

[Author]

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