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Just had a look at the manual for a similar machine and it says: [TABLE=”border: 1, cellpadding: 1″]
[TR]
[TD]F19[/TD]
[TD]Fan Motor Not Wired
Fan Motor Driving Triac Short Circuit or Switch Relay Contacts Sticking
Fan Motor Pin Feedback In Short Circuit With VCC[/TD]
[TD]- Check efficiency of connector and wiring continuity on the blower
fan;
– Check efficiency of connector and wiring continuity on the heating
element of the blower;
– Check fan motor is not in short circuit or open circuit;
– Check fan motor turns freely (it is not blocked partially);
– Replace main PCB.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]Hope that helps.
Jem
This has come to me as a private job and I am not sure what the warranty status is on the machine (I suspect that she didn’t register it), either way she wants me to take a look.
I don’t know who the Pacifica agent is for the island or if there is even one as we don’t have many of the manufacturers service agents here.
Jem
It has been a long time since I have done one so I may be wrong but if I remember correctly the the channel for the new seal is inside the old one so you have to cut the magnetic bit and both side edges off to reveal it.
Jem
This is one of those codes that I see reguarly and is 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time due to a blockage in the pressure chamber/air trap – I find that air alone is not usually enough to clear it properly so nowadays I use a big syringe (https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEMOTO-Suction-Extractor-Automobile-Transfer/dp/B09G1M5J8R?crid=351DW53VNB1P9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hsykcF9-Ri3hVmeO0z8baNhS6ACwQP7BtpjpBn5GaEPbON5-JpZhBhSL3YnipFbCQO8RDmAKN_Elx9bkEO1zW0-QJuRN1fxzRM07s5Fw2mA3KzYnk5r3qqQXDMyo7JSH-kUFlLA-Qk_thb6x3XYKlfbZB5_mnBT24j0nL1realyJ32BsQUjfsMQBBw5xVJOApq5XX96-y8tkub10vCrHQFXGyOB9LLP4ndFZGyHzvqI.mAfTtpBtgFh_AcrsuoRBJIKd9dbzujpMyG3jkdziGnI&dib_tag=se&keywords=fluid{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}2Bextractor&qid=1759254301&sprefix=fluid{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}2Caps{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}2C143&sr=8-5&th=1) to force water backwards and forwards through it.
Jem
E19 is usually an open circuit valve on the bottom of the heat exchanger tank – in this case the part number that you will likley need is 11033896
Jem
I have got the error codes for this model (must have been one of the last that I was able to download before I lost access). [TABLE=”border: 1, cellpadding: 1″]
[TR]
[TD]Code[/TD]
[TD]Subcode[/TD]
[TD]Description[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]F01[/TD]
[TD]1[/TD]
[TD]Main Board Probe Short Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]2[/TD]
[TD]Main Board Probe Open Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]33[/TD]
[TD]Electrical Signal Lost/Master Relay Fan Opened[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]34[/TD]
[TD]Electrical Signal Master Relay Fan Short Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]48[/TD]
[TD]Drive Master Relay Heating Elements Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]49[/TD]
[TD]Drive Master Relay Fans Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]50[/TD]
[TD]Common Master Relay Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]51[/TD]
[TD]Pilot 1 Master Relay Door Lock Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]144[/TD]
[TD]DS Circuit/Divider Analogic Input Out Of Range[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]F24[/TD]
[TD]113[/TD]
[TD]Cooling/Upper Fan In DIODO Mode[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]114[/TD]
[TD]Cooling/Upper Fan In Short Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]115[/TD]
[TD]Cooling/Upper Fan In Open Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]116[/TD]
[TD]Cooling/Upper Fan – Feedback Doesn’t Work[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]118[/TD]
[TD]Cooling/Upper Fan In DIODO Mode + Master Relay Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]129[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan In DIODO Mode[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]130[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan In Short Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]131[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan In Open Circuit[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]132[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan – Feedback Doesn’t Work[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]133[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan – Generic Problem[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]134[/TD]
[TD]Central Fan In DIODO Mode + Master Relay Blocked[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Hope That HelpsJem
A couple of thoughts: [INDENT]Is the sound enabled? if not then could it be that the machine is responding but just not showing any display? You could try enabling the sound to prove/disprove this.
When the display fails during a wash does the machine complete the program? If it does then it is more likley to be a display module failure.[/INDENT]
Jem
Having been doing some research I have found that previous models have a technical bulletin (al be it not quite the same issue) which talks about getting a service kit that changes the icemaker and main module (Rumored to have a longer defrost time) as well as having to seal the housing joints with RTV.
I can’t find any reference to this model but wondered if maybe the temperature sensor could be getting affected by air getting through the housing joints and causing it to stop the mold heater early otherwise I may have to replace either or both the ice maker and the module (but in which order).Does anyone know if there is a service buletin on this model and or a service kit? If not then I may just try the RTV first and see what happens.
Jem
Looking at the wiring diagram, apart from the cutout the cooling fan can be turned on in 2 other ways, either by the top oven selector switch (P2 to 4) or by the small relay on the timer (check between contacts KN7 and KN8). if the selector switch is good and the relay is not stuck on then I would have to guess either the main oven temperature sensor or the timer would be at fault. You could temporarily disconnect KN7 or KN8 on the timer to prove that that is that that is turning it on.
Jem
Looking at the parts list it looks like it is an EGO based induction unit with only 3 power modules (left hand 2 ring, centre 1 ring and right hand 2 ring), this being the case then the wiring diagram is pretty simple:
- All power boards recieve their own live and neutral direct from the main terminal block
- The power and display boards are daisy chained together by a 4 wire Lin bus cable (+12VDC, +5VDC, LIN (Data), 0VDC)
- The display board will connect to another small board that then interconnects to the controls.
- The LIN bus is only powered from one module (from memory its the left hand power module) and you can’t change which module powers it.
Assuming that I have remembered correctly which module powers the LIN bus then you will need to replace the Left hand Induction module.
Now as the module seems to be out of stock with most suppliers here is another option if you don’t mind a little soldering, you will potentially need:
- GBJ2510 Bridge Rectifier x 1 (ASWO #9427593)
- Not sure which of these part no’s is fitted but: H30SR5 IGBT (ASWO #Q513643) or RJH60F7 IGBT (ASWO #H326604) x 2
- 16A SMD fuse (you could just bridge the blown tracks but as they were designed as fusible links I like to solder surface mount fuses over the break – ASWO #X797682) x 4
- Heatsink Compound
The clips that hold the IGBTs and rectifer can be carefully prised off the heatsink with a screwdriver, to refit them place the heat sink on something solid then put the clip in position on top and lightly tap on with a hammer.
Before powering it up double check that there is no short circuit between any of the pins of the IGBTs or Bidge rectifier as if there is then there is another fault.Hope that helps
Jem
Just to echo what Dave said, I have had several of this range of oven with relays stuck on and changing the affected relay has always cured it.
Jem
I see on Aswo that there are 3 different door harnesses listed, if this machine has one of the ones where the wires go straight round the hinge in the flexible rubbery tube then these are very common to fail, it is not unusual that when I tug test them to find that half of the wires break, often this will cause intermittent flashing of the display first.
The display module is also a common failure, it is glued into the facia panel and moisture gets past the glue joint and onto the board and kills it (Part No is possibly 1763350007).
My advice would be to check if there is any damage to the wiring at the hinge and if the rubbery tube is damaged it would be worth having a visual on the main circuit board as I have had 2 or 3 where a wire has broken in the door hinge and shorted out on the chassis killing both circuit boards.
If you decide that in this case it is a faulty display then I would suggest that if it has the harness that goes straight round the hinge then you also persuade the customer to change that at the same time as it will almost certaintly soon fail.Jem
Might also be worth double checking the installation instructions as there are some that are meant to be mounted on brackets without a cabinet base.
Jem
Condensation was my thought also but I couldn’t see from where it had come.
Good to know that there are not any tech bulletins on it, now I can just change the module, test run the machine and see what happens.
Jem
I have never been in this situation nor tried moving a lock manually but after looking at images of the possible lock (C00312491) I wonder if it would be possible to slip a right angled pick in above the door and move the locking bar over with it (I think that you may need to move it to the right and that you will need to try to get the end of the pick in between the button and the bar).
Jem
