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Re: Mains Capacitor
In that case it is almost certainty a varistor (Voltage Dependant Resistor – also known as MOV), If it was a capacitor it would have been marked on the board with a “C”, It is designed to sit there as effectively an open circuit device until a voltage greater than its rating appears across (I think its about 561V if I have read the markings that you have given correctly) it at which point it breaks down and starts conducting, this is to try and protect the board and the rest of the machine from blowing up.
Hope that Helps
Jem
Re: Mains Capacitor
What symbol is printed on the board under it? What is the component number on the board under it?
As Allsorts says it could be a varistor which is used for surge suppression, if so it should be a very high resistance across the incoming power lines.
Photos of the item and board may also help us to help you more.
Jem
Re: Whirlpool 3RLBR8543JQ2 toploader
A test that you can do is to put the machine on to a wash program, at this point it will fill with water then start agitating the central shaft when full (Drum stays stationary), assuming it does that ok then set it to spin and it will drain (Both tub and agitator shaft stationary) after approx 2 mins it should pause the motor for a second before continuing (Now the drum should spin and the agitator remain stationary).
Assuming that it agitates but won’t spin then:
1. Remove the outer cabinet:
A) Remove the 2 screws at the back ends of the control panel.
B) Pull the control panel slightly forwards then rotate up out of the way.
C) Using a large flat head screw driver push down on the 2 spring clips and unhook them.
D) Unplug the connector that is dead centre of the machine at the back under where the control panel was.
E) Tilt cabinet forwards towards you then pull away from the washer.2. Use a link wire to join the 2 outer contacts on the connector that you removed earlier (This is the Lid Switch Contacts).
3. Rotate the control panel back to its normal position and try it on a spin – look underneath and you will see that just above the gear box there is a silver clutch mechanism, If this outside silver drum section spins then the gear box is OK, if it doesn’t move then you may need the neutral assembly kit to repair the gear box (the gear box is full of oil but they are not difficult to repair and you can get the bits seperatley).
If the outer part of the clutch does spin then it will either be the clutch mechanism or bearings that need replacing.
hope that helps.
Jem
P.S. If you send me an e-mail address I have a manual for the direct drive machines which explains how they work.
Re: cordless drill batteries
Before I started this job I used to work as a test engineer for a local company and we used to have to revive batteries that we could no longer get replacements for, the way we did it:
1. Take battery apart to get to the individual cells.
2. Find the duff cells.
3. Get hold of a large value capacitor – we used to use a 33 millifarad with a 40V rating.
4. Charge it up to the highest voltage you safely can – we used to use a supply that kicked out 30V.
5. Disconnect from power supply.
6. Short it out through the duff cell.
7. Check cell voltage and repeat the above as necessary swapping connection polarity to the battery each time – usually found that it could be done in a maximum of 4 shocks.Note: Don’t get your fingers across the capacitor when its fully charged as it will hurt, you may also find that you lightly arc weld the leads from the cap to the cell.
You try this at your own risk but it worked for me.
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
Well I tried a new pump yesterday but there was no change, I even stripped the whole sump and pipework down to check that there wasn’t a blockage that I had missed but couldn’t find anything so had to diagnose it as board fault – customer has decided to scrap it as a board was too expensive for their liking.
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
I have checked for any blockages and checked that the machine will drain – it gets to about 3 or 4mm of water in the sump which seems pretty good to me, the machine starts of by pumping out for a bit then stops for about 15 seconds then pumps again before running the main motor and then the pump again, pause for about 15 seconds and then end.
Pump is giving me a reading of 89.3 Ohms – is that far enough out of spec to cause problems or is it more likely to be the board? It felt ok to turn and I couldn’t find any blockages, I didn’t have one so wasn’t able to just try swapping it.
I may well get a pump in anyway to try but wonder if I need to quote board as well.
Thank you
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
Ta Muchly
2 more quick questions before I go and look at it again:
Does it have a speed sensor on the drain pump?
Where and what is the level sense other than the flow meter as I couldn’t see anything but may have mistaken it for something else?Thank you
Jem
Re: Whirlpool American top loader 3RLSQ8000JQ1
That sounds like the 3 piece motor coupling.
Take the outer case off then un-clip drain pump from motor and un-clip the motor from the gear box to find it.
Prt No: 481932528035
Hope that Helps
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
Can you tell me what resistance readings I should get on this pump? because it sounded all right and emptied happily when it did successfully fill.
Thank you
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
It shows E24 on the top display and the check water light comes on.
Thank you for all the help so far, It sounds like the valves are OK then.
Jem
Re: Bosch SMS69L12GB/18 – Service Manual
I had sort of discounted the flow meter because it doesn’t appear to let the water get as far as turning the wheel yet the aquastop valve meters at 4.4K all the way back to the board (tad higher than I would have normally expected – is this right?), the valve on the side of the salt container meters at 2.2K (lower than I would have expected) and there is a valve slightly nearer to the front of the machine on the bottom of the fill matrix which meters at 1.9K (a lot lower than I would normally expected but on the 2 times out of many that it did allow water that far it worked perfectly).
Is it worth getting a new flow sensor to try any way? Would this stop the board outputting power to the valves?
Thank you
Jem
Re: Kenwood KDW12ST3A – Strange Fault
The filter looked visually perfect and comes before the internal fuse on the board which is why I ruled it out but I may well see if I can disconnect it to see what happens anyway when I go back.
Jem
P.S. The machine was still turned on at the socket when I arrived and had been so for 24hrs which means the filter had been as well so I don’t think it will be that but any more ideas then keep them coming.
Re: CTD00P
Give me an e-mail and I will send it through.
Jem
email: hollytree(dot)technical(at)googlemail(dot)com
Re: Whirlpool ADG7560 (854275515879) Dishwasher – Motor Repl
Thank you – just the information that I needed and in a part of the forum that I hadn’t found – I fitted the replacement yesterday and it is all working nicely.
Re: aeg fault code e70 and e50
When I see these 2 codes together I tend to find that the motor has bad insulation resistance, usually its the armature that is shorting to earth.
When you see an AEG/Zanussi/Electrolux/Tricity Bendix fault code that ends in “0” (e.g. E70) then it means that it is actually producing a fault code in the range of 1 – 9 in the subsection of the first number (E.G. E70 means a code in the E71 – E79 range and E50 means an error in the E51 – E59 Range), the E?0 errors are just there for the customers benefit, if you access the diagnostics you should be able to get the specific code.
Jem
