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Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: hotpoint card readers and hardware key
The Card reader is straight forward to use and fairly useful (although I don’t need it that often thanks to EMW).
The hardware key is a bit of a waste of time unless you have the Hotpoints software (I Don’t and it isn’t available to the independents as far as I know) – all it tells you is what the current error being displayed is in alpha-numerics (the machine will still tell you on the front display in the usual ways) and you can put units into auto test mode which you can usually replicate with careful program choice – I have almost never used mine and I don’t think it does any more than that though I wait to be proved wrong.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP3620 Oven
sounds like you are confirming my suspicions, I didn’t think that there would be any cut outs between the clock and oven components – I would have thought that any cut out would kill everything, My guess would be the clocks relay as from talking to him on the phone he is well used to setting the clock as he turns the power off when he isn’t around and I would have thought that at least one of the other bits would have worked if it was the switch thought the diagram may prove me wrong, do you know what clock is used in this oven or a part number for it?
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Warning, Qualtex BKT88 failure
I have also had one of those fail just the same as in the picture, replaced it with a gen shaft and not had to go back since.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Two Hotpoint Frost Free question
From memory (on the wrong computer for checking) the new heater on the FF200E extends below the bottom of the evaporator as that is where the ice build up starts, I have fitted a couple of these and they are not too difficult to do just a pain when the thing is still freezing cold, if you send me an e-mail address then I can send you the info (assuming that my memory is correct).
FF175BP – Not sure I can help you on this one so will leave it for someone else.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: zanussi ZWD14581S
E20 is just a generic error code shown to the customer, it tells you that an error has occurred in the E21 – E29 range of codes, this particular range of error codes is all to do with the draining of the appliance (Drain pump, filter, hoses etc).
Send me an e-mail address and I will send you some info if you need it.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Zanussi error code????
Because there are no error codes in the E0x – E09 range I knew that if I was to make it up to the 8 required LEDS then the extra 2 LEDS I wanted had to go at the bottom. I then took the first 4 LEDS as the first digit of the error code and the second 4 LEDS as the second digit, I then used this table to convert them:
Top -> Bottom
0, 0, 0, 0, = 0
0, 0, 0, 1, = 1
0, 0, 1, 0, = 2
0, 0, 1, 1, = 3
0, 1, 0, 0, = 4
0, 1, 0, 1, = 5
0, 1, 1, 0, = 6
0, 1, 1, 1, = 7
1, 0, 0, 0, = 8
1, 0, 0, 1, = 9
1, 0, 1, 0, = A
1, 0, 1, 1, = B
1, 1, 0, 0, = C
1, 1, 0, 1, = D
1, 1, 1, 0, = E
1, 1, 1, 1, = FThus to get the error code for your machine I took the first 4 LEDS (0, 0, 1, 1) which gave me 3 and then I should have read the second 4 LEDS as (0, 1, 0, 0,) which gives me a 4 which then gives the total error of E34 “incongruity between the water level measured by the analogic
pressure switch and the mechanical pressure switch”.Having just typed that out I have now realised that I gave you the wrong second digit on the original error code 😳
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Samsung RSH1DBMH Fridge Freezer
fan will not run with it open or closed (tricked it with a magnet and waited several minutes as well to make sure)
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Samsung RSH1DBMH Fridge Freezer
Perhaps I should have mentioned that it had been left turned off for 5 days before I went back so was completely free of ice, I was/am just surprised that it appears to make no attempt at all to spin the refrigeration fan even in the forced operation/forced defrost test mode.
when you say sensor/evaporator mod – I assume that you mean part no “DA81-01997A”, so what is the fuse board mod kit meant to correct/change?
Thank you for your help so far
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Beko cooker
Any chance you could fire a copy to me as well please?
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Samsung RSH1DBMH Fridge Freezer
Hi all
Thank you for the extra info Bob – looks like it is one that does need modifying.
Might be contacting you Bryan for parts once people have confirmed/denied what I have said below.
Before I order the mod kit I wonder whether I could pick peoples brains a little more (I don’t see much Samsung stuff for repair) – I don’t appear to be getting any circulation from the refrigerator fan – I put the unit into self test diagnostic mode and got no errors showing, I then put the unit into forced diagnostic mode and measured 10v going to both the compressor fan and the freezer fan but not the refrigerator fan (labelled R-fan on board), I assume that it should be running all 3 fans at this point? I have also taken the fan out and tested the coils with a multimeter and got continuity so then connected it to a 9V battery upon whence it happily spun, I assume that it brings both fridge and freezer back to temperature in one go and doesn’t do them one at a time? Would people agree with my diagnosis that the main board is knackered?
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Samsung RSH1DBMH Fridge Freezer
Hi Bob
Thank you for the e-mail – will sit and read them a bit later.
It isn’t keeping temperature in the fridge – when I went to look the first time it was iced so solid I couldn’t get the cover off, its in a holiday let and the holiday makers decided to live with it rather than turn it off for a day or two so I could fix it, will be going back tomorrow morning to look at it and try and work out why it is that badly iced.
Any suggestions or pointers will be much appreciated.
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Cda CD906ss double oven
I would start looking for loose connections between the mains inlet and the timer – the high current draw of the element through the dodgy connection causes them to heat up and break the circuit, they then tend to cool pretty quickly ready to start the whole process again.
Hope that helps.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Zanussi error code????
Try sticking it into diagnostics on the LED test (First position) and then watch the front panel closely – there are probably another 2 below the 6th one hidden behind the panel (in my experience they are always there just not shown to the user), this being the case then your LEDs would be numbered 18, 19 and 21 – I would then read the error as E31 “Pressure Switch Faulty”.
Hope that Helps
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Samsung RSH1DBMH Fridge Freezer
Anyone?
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Qualtex 30mm hotpoint spider & bearing kit
Indeed it does appear to be a new line – currently out of stock with a part no of quaunt21
Jem
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