Forum Replies Created
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Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: How to measure a belt?
The machine was a Ariston AWD12 which was fitted with a 1046 H8 Belt.
I shall have to try and find the Qualtex guide.
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: LG Direct Drive Rotor – Splined Plastic Hub
The replacement that arrived yesterday has got a metal insert in the centre that has much deeper teeth into the plastic so should last longer.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WD72
If you are only getting half a display at normal brightness then I would guess that there is a dodgy joint on the display board – if you can’t see it then try flexing the board slightly when it has power and you may find that it flickers on/off.
I don’t have any display boards here to check with but I would guess that there are a couple of common grounds for the LCD and that it is one of these that is the problem.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: bosch microwave hbc86q651b/01
If the correct voltage is getting to the motor then I would suggest that the motor is burning out and not able to provide the torque required any more.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: LG Direct Drive Rotor – Splined Plastic Hub
I had a feeling that it would be a complete rotor job though decided to ask just in case.
I didn’t see anything on the machine about the 10 year warranty and I am not sure that the customer will have done all the registration hoops – they are happy to go ahead with the repair anyway.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Bush HW60-1460D – sudden motor speed change – Err 7
I think I tugged them all and they all seemed firm.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Bush HW60-1460D – sudden motor speed change – Err 7
PRC?
It does say Haier on the motor if that helps.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: **KNOWN ERROR CODES**
Found these in the user manual:
Bush HW60-1460D
Error 1: Door Not Shut
Error 2: Drainage Error – Failed To Drain Within 6 Minutes
Error 3: Temperature Sensor Not Connected Or Damaged
Error 4: Heater Error (Shown At End Of Cycle)
Error 5: Water Level Not Met Within 8 Minutes
Error 6: Motor Heat Protector Error
Error 7: Motor Error
Error 8: Water Level Exceeds Protective Level
UNb: After Last Rinse Cycle Spin Fails Completely Due To Unbalanced LoadJem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Bosch SMS50E0UK/01 no go
If it only grumbles for a second then check the drain pump – it should read approx 90 Ohms between each pair of the 3 contacts (3 phase delta wound motor), apparently the board measures the resistance of the pump while it is running to tell if it is blocked etc.
I guess it is similar to the machine in this thread which contains various resistance values that you may or may not find helpful.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Baumatic BT2760SS
I don’t know about the access side as I have never had to mend a Baumatic but bypassing the clock should be easy enough – just find the 2 wires to the relay on the back of the clock and connect them together.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: IDW450
Sounds like it, but at least we now know that it is a sink type hall sensor that runs on about 5V – I shall store that info for future reference when I see one of these, if you have a frequency counter or a oscilloscope then you can now rig it up with the valve and see if it all works together or not.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: IDW450
It makes me think that either the magnet is too weak or there isn’t really enough of a voltage swing there, they usually have a CMOS switch on the output to make it swing between the 2 voltage rails….. unless it is one that is designed to sink current in which case stick a resistor (Something like 1K but anything round there would do) between the white and red wires then repeat the test.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: IDW450
It is probably a “Hall Effect Sensor”, try giving it 3 volts DC between the red and black wires then with the meter across White and Black wires pass a magnet across it and the output should go fro either low to high or high to low, if you get nothing then try upping it to 5V input as the next step (most only want 3.5V as maximum though they can be rated for up to 12V).
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Mains Capacitor
Using the first image as reference for positions:
From a quick look and assuming that I am guessing correctly that the voltage comes in on the left hand pins of KN3 then I reckon that I would start by looking at the big blue square cap, might even be worth taking it off of the board and looking underneath as they often blow out the bottom but not always majorly (sometimes no visable damage) also try changing it as they can breakdown under load and are a regular failure item, after that if you are happy measuring live voltages then I would be looking at the DC voltage across D3 and across D5 – this should be into the low voltage side of things at this point.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Mains Capacitor
Give us a view of the other side of the board as well and we might be able to help you track down the fault abit more – then again we may not but you have my curiosity roused now.
Jem
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