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Re: Getting the belt on the tension pulley – Hpt condenser d
Very carefully from the top, avoiding the sharp edges if possible.
Re: Getting the belt on the tension pulley – Hpt condenser d
To be honest I don’t find the condensor dryer belts a problem, the ‘stretchy’ belts on the vented models are a bit tight though.
On the WMA washing machine, I put the belt on the motor pulley, then fix the belt to the drum pulley with a strong plastic bag tie, then walk the belt onto the drum pulley.
It is worth mentioning that the WMA belt is ‘electrically conductive’ to discharge static. Make sure that any replacement belt is the same or use genuine to be on the safe side.
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
Martin wrote:
I believe the problem lies in the fact that Hotpoint have made no provision for ‘static discharge’, and no longer put an earth grounding on the bearing hub as they used to way back on the 95 series. Electrostatic forces come into play very much on these modern high speed, high torque units and generate enough destructive powers on the knife edge water seal by themselves.
Martin
But they have, the belt is electrically conductive, one very good reason to use genuine belts only on these models.
PS. sorry about the post in the ‘finnish’ saga thread. I won’t do it again. 😳
Re: Indesit W161 UK Bearing change
well, one blood transfusion later 😉
I have removed the 8 torx bolts securing the spider, as usual the hardest to release were the 2 at the bottom right, the most difficult to get at at for a lefty like me. 🙂
the torx bolt securing the drum pulley is proving more of a problem. Before I start to get heavy with this, can anyone confirm that this is a conventional threaded bolt and not a left hand thread, ie: anti-clockwise to release.Edit. The Halfords kit is good but they don’t supply a T40 with 1/2 inch drive, the 1/2 ones start at T50. The biggest T40 is a 3/8th’s, but they do a converter for 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 inch.
Re: Indesit WD12 UK F5 & F10 ???
Will check that out. Wiring appears fine, however I cannot do a water test as this machine has been uplifted from this blokes static caravan ( hence the very light use )and brought to his industrial unit nearer home. I did try it on rinse, by ‘gently’ blowing into the pressure switch and the motor tumbled for around 15 secs before going into error.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
dear Mr Martin, I have a Hotpoint Empress with a faulty main gearbox, it is driven by a huge motor that seems to have two bits of rubber with screws through it. These have snapped and I suspect the gearbox is seized. If I strip the gearbox down and send you the pictures of the faulty cogs will you be able to find the part numbers and send them to me.
If I can repair this machine I would be most grateful, but would be prepared to accept option 2 if all else fails.
Re: Whats the most annoying thing customers do?
GRRRRRR. Woman phones up last week, door has fallen of the washer and broken the glass bowl, and plastic door trim, Hotpoint WM range, so I suspect hinge fault. I carry hinges & blocks, but not complete door trims or bowls. Ordered the parts, went yesterday to fit and found that even after I had asked her to save the old door, her ‘partner’ had thrown it away. 👿
Now have to order, release button, latch, spring, pin, circlips, etc. 😥Re: Hotpoint Aquarius TDL34 tumble dryer – Banging Noise
Anonymous wrote:Sounds most likely to be the drum shaft, depending on age maybe requires a drum and duct kit if so be better contacting the profesionals.
TDL34 has the later drum & duct assy according to Partfinder. 😉
TDL34 Aqua Sensing Rev PHD 2002-2003
Rear drum shaft repair kit part No: 1701662
Re: Hotpoint Aquarius TDL34 tumble dryer – Banging Noise
First and MOST important, remove the mains plug.
If you then remove the two screws at the back securing the lid and remove it, you will be able to see the belt. If it is tight to the drum and appears sound all the way round ( rotate drum by hand to examine) the the bearings may be at fault. This machine had a major modification to overcome a front bearing problem but the rear bearing can still fail. Lift the drum at the rear edge, there should be very little upwards movement.
On the back of the machine in a central position is the cover for the rear bearing, a small cap held on by two screws. Remove this and check the condition of the shaft and square plastic bearing. If this is faulty then a rear bearing and shaft kit is required and is not that expensive. Fitting requires a certain degree of competance, be very careful of the sharp edges if you intend to proceed further.
PS. A belt change is not technically difficult but due to the type of belt used it is quite an awkward job to replace due to the extreme tension in a new belt.
Re: bosch tub repair
Its not called milliput at Qualtex, but you can get something exactly the same from them, part No: MIS 86. Tub repair epoxy putty.
I use it all the time for coin damaged drums. Very good for smallish holes, not much use for large cracks though. Sets like rock, you can even repair copper piping with it.
Re: Indesit W161 UK Bearing change
Martin wrote:
Migliore di fortuna!!!!!!!!!!!
Martin
Thanks for that, I may take my bottle of Strega with me and pour myself a shot just to calm my nerves.
There is no play in the shaft, thankfully the customer is that rare animal that actually rings as soon as she hears a noise, not when the floor has at the back has turned brown, water is running from underneath and she can get her hand between the inner and outer drum.
All advice duly noted, thanks all.
Penguin45 wrote:Funny how things come back to you after a pint or four. There’s a chap in Castleford called John Bunting (Sorry, NO idea of the number) who came up with a puller specifically for the 6205 outer race. It was a sort of twist fit insert into the outer race, then you shot the bolt and sleeve into place and IT WORKED!! NO spring loaded collets or any of that nonsense. I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.
Honestly, it was one of those simple ideas that when you see it you go “Why didn’t I think of that?”
Regards,
Penguin.As you say the simple ideas are the best. 😉
I consider the later bearing removal/fitting kit one of the best £65’s I
have ever spent.
I do not use it to remove the bearings regardless of their condition. I use the large drift that was part of the original Hotpoint supplied bearing removal kit before it was superceded by the kit in the red plastic box. It matters not wether you use the removal tool or a drift, if the bearing is going to collapse then it will, drift or drawer makes no difference, but the drift & the Birmingham screwdriver is quicker. 🙂If the bearing collapses I remove all the rubble, broken bearings etc.
I then use the spring loaded colletts, I place them inside the bearing outer shell, but before I insert the threaded shaft I prise the colletts open at one end then insert a small bolt or pin ( I actually use the small pin that was used to mount the last design of pecker on the GEC/GDA motor. It is a perfect fit and using this I manage to draw out around 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the bearing outer casings. Only if it splits do I have to resort to ‘other’ measures, but I would never dream of putting extremes of heat anywhere near a nylon drum. I also clean the inside of the alloy collar as best I can before attempting to draw out the bearing shell.I have had a much harder steel threaded shaft for this kit made by a friend with a small engineering firm.
Re: What’s the most illogical fault you’ve had to find?
Towards the end of my time at Hotpoint ( I took voluntary redundancy in the late 70’s) it was my job to sort out ( if possible ) the problem machines, Often it was a case of looking at a problem from a different angle, sometimes it was just good luck.
A colleague who was a decent engineer had finally given up on a 1600 and the Area Manager asked me to have a look. Anyone old enough to remember the 1600/1830 will know that the original control module was a small one that went into a 14 way connector. This was superceded by a larger module that had 18 connections. This was supplied with a new 18 way block complete with leads and enough butt connectors to do the conversion. This engineer had fitted one of these conversions to replace a burnt out module, but could not get the motor to run correctly afterwards, no matter what he tried.I checked all the obvious things, brushes, continuity on all circuits, checked every one of his18 butt connections and found no faults. The new 18 way module block had one thing that the earlier one did not, a small thin black wire that linked between two of the block connections, I was on the verge of throwing in the towel when I decided to check this link. Imagine my relief when I found that it was OC. The insulation on the tiny loop wire had not been trimmed back when it was manufactured and it was crimped over the plastic. 8)
Re: What’s the most illogical fault you’ve had to find?
Once went to an old purple Hotpoint 1850, customer complained that the machine kept switching itself off. ❗ Now I don’t know how many of you remember the very old English Electric Liberator ( better built than anything Tuetonic), one timer version used on that machine did in fact have a bi-metal overload cut out inside the timer that would ‘pull’ the control knob in and switch the machine off, but an 1850 doing this ???
It was a fairly small built on kitchen and the washing machine was situated at one end where the back door opened into the kitchen, yes you’ve guessed it , when it was windy the back door was blowing in and ‘switching the machine off’ 🙂
Speaking of the very earliest English Eletric Liberator, it didn’t liberate the user that much, it only ran in one direction, you then had to throw a lever on the front which pulled the drum pulley in to achieve ( a very slow ) spin, always assuming you had remembered to throw the other lever that pulled the pump pulley against a rubber wheel on the motor. This operation was replaced by two huge solenoids on later models. Ah, those were the days. 😉
Re: WMA Bearing Kit
This kit must be good, it is listed in Partfinder as a ‘Premier Bearing Kit’ :rotfl:
Do you guys manage to refit these bearings with the original Hotpoint supplied removal/fitting kit that comes in the red plastic box. I have had to use this plus a couple of bits from a much older kit.
