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That gunge is often seen when the dishes are not rinsed before loading together with using the economy wash all the time, difficult to clean out to say the least.
That pump doesn’t look that bad, it should not spin freely but flick round in quarter turns. A very common cause of pump blockages are small pieces of broken glass, they often get dislodged as you remove the pump so you don’t always find the culprit. The ‘‘heat exchanger matrix’’ is far more likely to be the water softener matrix. It is filled with what appears to be a brownish goo which is perfectly normal.
Error codes are same as FDL machines. The 3 progress lights and the start/pause light are used for errors. On/Off, salt and rinse aid flash for all error conditions.
There is a very, very small torx screw you need to remove from the lower centre of the pcb.;)
Just checked in in my old tool bag, it’s an 08 torx bit.
There are four other wires which run from that same main pcb connection CN08 up to the small control pcb in the console panel, it will be one of those that is causing the problem.
The wires to the detergent dispenser go to terminals 1 & 2 on block CN08 on the main pcb in the base. You still need to trace where the other wire terminates at both ends.
I do have a wiring diagram, only one problem it does not show the wiring colours only destinations. 🙁 If you have access to a simple circuit tester and can trace the upper location of each individual wire on the control panel or main upper circuit board then I may be able to help.
Not sure if I have a wiring diagram for that model, I will have a look later, trial and error would be a big mistake.:(
Not just the motor, all of the base components, pump, heater, drain pump, fill and regen valves, mains terminal block, everything except the detergent dispenser and the control panel is in the base.
Not sure about the front panel being fixed or removable but if the front panel does come off you would only need to remove the outer lip of the door seal, no need to remove it from the drum. If the front panel will remove it will be shown as a separate part on the diagram.
Depends……If there is a break it depends on exactly where it is, sometimes it is just a simple matter of cutting back the broken wire and reconnecting with a butt connector, possibly may need an extra piece of wire butted into the break. If you are unlucky and the break is very close to any part of the body of the machine then an effective repair can be difficult.
The Achille’s heel of any and every dishwasher is the door wiring harness, generally less of a problem on better quality machines but something that affects all of them with age. Every time you open and close the door you effectively bend the whole of the door wiring loom through 90 degrees. Over time as the plastic insulation of the wiring hardens some of the cables can break. if you can remove the outer door panel then inspect the door wiring harness for breaks at the bottom edge where it bends.
Little to choose between, either, the Hotpoint has been 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} Indesit for many years and has since been taken over by Whirlpool but that is still likely to be produced in Italy or even in China, the Candy is even more likely to be Chinese built. Both considered ‘low end’ machines in the UK although even here the Aqualtis range did seem a little more reliable than the general Indesit offerings. Sadly the sealed drum is more or less the norm these days.
