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Re: Hotpoint AQXXL129P1
would be inclined to think its a hot heater with the internal wire either warping due to being hot and arcing to the outer case or the heaters got a leak causing the chalk insulator to get damp and eventually short out.
Re: indesit carbon brush
Just cut the copper lead attaching the carbon the holder and reverse it so its pointing in the right direction, I’m not sure if this is frowned upon or not but done it hundreds of times with no problem
Re: The Enhanced Job Process
I worked with them 2002 till 2010 and although they advocated all this bull shit very few did it. the ones who did were the ” engineers ” who couldn’t put a nut in a monkeys mouth and were always looking to utilise the procedure to find an excuse to bolt !
Re: Zanussi ZWD12670W1
try this ” quick guide ” at 170 pages !
http://www.electrolux-ti.com/others/599/724/080EN.PDFRe: tricity bendix WDR1041W no heat from elements
level 1 on the pressure switch has to drop out, pull the hose off the p/s and try it on dry . Just as an idea I’m assuming its set on manual dry and not sensor dry as with no wet clothes in the tub the heater might not come on with sensor dry set.Pull the wires off the working stat and the overheat stat and test with the power off for continuity across each. you can test for a resistance on the duct ntc and the condenser ntc but to honest I cant remember the resistance, if their not O/C or dead short they’re prob ok.
Re: tricity bendix WDR1041W no heat from elements
ah right if your testing phase and earth and getting 220 ac that means the the constant supply to the elements is ok but as I said unless they’ve changed the design very recently its the neutral they switch on and off a standing potential difference being held at the element without a return path ( the neutral ) won’t establish current flow so the element won’t resist the flow which is what causes the element to heat. I suggest you put your meter across the two terminals of the element, stand back and switch on to dry and see if you get 220 live to neutral rather than live to earth been caught out myself before just spot checkin for a live… good luck
Re: tricity bendix WDR1041W no heat from elements
Funnily enough I can’t find any ref to E40 however its in the range of door lock area .
I would have thought if you’re getting 230v to the element and its not heating it must be the elements. I’m assuming you mean across the element you get 220v and not just a 220v live as I’m pretty sure its the neutral thats switched by the PCB.Have you checked it’s filling and emptying ok now since if the pressure vessel got blocked whilst the pump was snookered and level one never dropped out the PCB won’t turn on the element.Re: Plastic Outer Drum repair?
I’m not by any means putting down the merits of Dr Ding but from experience I can say the far cheaper alternative from Pound Stretchers ( I know a lot of their products are sub standard and unlike Ronseal don’t do what it says on the tin ) however having used this a few times at 4.99 for 2 packs it quite simply does the job.
Re: Plastic Outer Drum repair?
Hi used epoxy putty a few times and done the job without any probs even on larger holes. Due to the fact its a putty and not a glue when you spread it into place pushing the putty well into the hole it goes where you want it and stays there. Very quick drying time, 10 mins to very firm couple of hours to be ready to use. spreads to a nice flat surface using a wet finger ! I know its branded as metal weld and emergency pipe repairer blah blah but I just get the generic stuff from poundstretchers ! £ 4.99 for two tubes and its excellent.
Re: White Knight belt?
You’re spot on its all the wee tips and tricks picked up through a lifetime of trial and error that makes this job so much easier its an absolute fool that makes the statement I know all there is to know for to date I’ve never met anyone who does . The information you can pick up here from the extremely competent and experienced engineers who post regularly is invaluable. I only stumbled across this site a few months ago and after 20 years of grafting for manufacturers and doing countless courses I’ve still learned shed loads of fantastic practical advise from the guys on here who quite simply have been there and done that !
Re: Connecting Gas Cookers.
That is an ongoing problem for independents Steve must old guys like meself were lucky enough to get our first ACOPS as it was through working with either a large independent with a few engineers or a direct service from a manufacturer so getting a sponsor wasnt an issue you went out with one of the guys , got your time up and that was it…
Re: Connecting Gas Cookers.
unfortunately yes, you do have to provide a diary of work to show you’ve gained a practical working knowledge and witnessed best practise being employed. Depending on how flexible your sponsor is you can get it done by meeting him to observe and participate in one job a day and just get him to give you the low down on the rest ( thats unofficial of course, by the book you have to attend all calls submitted ) but when alls said and done most of us have to earn while we learn….
Re: Connecting Gas Cookers.
There is a provision for ” limited scope ” certification however its difficult to get and in this instance I doubt if you’d get it.The only instance I can actually remember is British Gas being granted it for the guys who go round to ” cut you off ” as isolating the meter from the supply was their sole function and they weren’t permitted to do anything else. When installing a cooker you must have an awareness of the proposed local and be suitably educated as to the possible hazards involved in installing in that place and the regulations governing the sighting of a gas appliance and there’s many! So in short without gaining ccn1 and ckr1 I doubt you’d be legally permitted to install.
