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This is quite common these days to have what we call “foamed doors”, basically the seals are effectively glued into place sandwiched between the inner door and outer door panels making them difficult, if not impossible to replace.
It’s cheaper than using screws on the production line I’m told. 🙄
K.
Penguin, normally I’d agree with you and, on many other brands you’d be spot on but after seeing a few hundred Servis machines as warranty calls you get to know that water = naffed board 99.9{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time.
The only reason I know about the resistor trick is that Servis ran out of stock of them for a while and that seemed to cure some, if not all, but for the few pence it’s worth a go IMO.
From what Stevie originally said about the Y-hose leaking (a not uncommon fault with them BTW) often the water will track to the lowest point at the rear of the drum, drip onto the motor commutator and BLAM! Just what damage it does depends on the severity of the leak obviously but it’s not normally good news as it often dead shorts the comm and takes the module with it, sometimes the harness as well as the edge connectors just about disintegrate on some of them.
Since the usual prices for a motor exceed the purchase price of the appliance let alone adding the £80 ish module, every one of them is usually a write-off!
Due the low cost of the appliance, I assume, there is no splash shielding on either the motor or the harness, the module is housed in a box but that’s not watertight by any standard. Water, electricity and electronics rarely mix well together. 😉
K.
Re: servis m3510 wont spin ? only 1 year old !!!!!!!!!!!
sm bodywork wrote: servis bad design methinks
Sadly the old adage of “you gets what you pays for” applies here. 🙄
When they design to a standard, you get a Mercedes…
When they design to a price you get a Trabant.
😉
K.
There’s usually only one that fails, one of the big white ones, I forget the value. But if it ain’t that you’ll likely need a replacement module. 🙁
K.
Re: Patten or Genuine Spare Parts ????
Now add a very reasonable £50 callout to do that repair and the bill comes to £112.40 including VAT, shockingly just under most insurer’s limit (or maybe that’s a bit cynical ;), but it does represent 62.44{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the purchase price of the appliance to replace one component which, let’s face it, should not have failed in that space of time.
If you were the customer, what would you do?
K.
I have to admit that this is one of my pet hates (I have a few ;)) and you’re spot on Lawrence, it is an increasing problem. However, as is often the case, it appears that there is one set of rules for OEM service and a totally different set for the independent engineer. 🙁
I wouldn’t mind, but I always though that engineers were out to repair appliances, not be mobile telephone receptionists.
K.
Thanks for the comments, we try.
Do you mean the internal grey hose, looks like corrugated plastic pipe with a rubber “Y” in it?
If so there is a chance that water has run down onto the motor which would most likely have blown the module. On some there’s only one resistor that goes, generally, that costs a few pence to replace and can be obtained from the likes of RS Components etc. Sorry, I don’t have the information to hand here on what’s in it, but the module part number is on the label, should start 546*******.
Hope that helps.
K.
Yes and stripping gas components to that degree could be very, very dangerous so you will have to get the appliance tested properly by somone competent to do so in order to ensure that there is no gas leakage.
K.
Aww, Martin… I was waiting on the “when I were a lad…” there! :rotfl:
And I agree, don’t touch…walk away.
K.
Okay, that’s done in the moderator forum, hopefully that should sort that out without any ill will. Very interesting that Chris has had experience with the media though and that experience could well do us all a favour, so I’m glad we found that out now.
Jason, I know, I think most people would at least consult one of us before doing anything rash as we often do using IRC or the phone, but it’s probably best to kinda spell it out. In the end this is all about working together and I have no issue ith delegation and others doing stuff like that, so long as we’re all singing the same tune. What I don’t want is a fiasco like the DASA/NESN thing that’s obviously going off, where the select few have the knowledge of what’s going off and no other bugger has a clue! As you can see from the “NESN in Spin Mode” thread that has led to bad press for both, not just one. That’s what happens when the people that should know, don’t.
K.
Re: While we’re on the subject…
Yeah Dave I think that’s the angle as well to a degree, but he let the cat out the bag a bit with the comments regarding the early BER on Merloni product. I think there’s more to this than meets the eye and that our friend “Brian” has a bit more sway than we’re giving him credit for about now. Bearing in mind he has also stated that he has control of the information that goes onto Partfinder, so he has some control there that is no doubt co-ordinated by the service side.
We’ll just have to wait and see what he comes up with next.
K.
I think you could struggle there as I was not aware that Thermador sold any appliances in the EU let alone the UK.
I take it that this is an imported appliance?
K.
What was the actual fault Stato?
Most of the PCB/Timers are about the £118 plus VAT mark, so they are worth doing as the appliance is integrated up until a few years old.
The biggest problem we get with these, and it’s not a critisism of the repairer persay, is that some repairers take them on without knowing the appliance and therefore tend to “guess” at the cause, usually blaming the main PCB/Timer for whatever ails the machine. The problem is that whilst they do fault, it’s not the only reason for the appliance to fail but some faults can make it seem as if the timer is faulty when it’s not. If your repairer doesn’t see many of these machines it is possible that he’s looking at the wrong component being goosed but of course, I could be wrong there.
K.
