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Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water
You can seal yes, just using silicone sealant or debor but, if the cause isn’t resolved it will leak again eventually.
In every one I’ve looked at it’s been the detergent, the quantity of detergent or just overloading that’s caused it. There’s really nothing else that can.
K.
Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water
There won’t be clothing in there.
Built up soap residues maybe and more than likely it’s been happening for years and it’s just caused an issue as, it’s 99.9999{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} down to use.
I’d try running a maintenance wash first, see if that clears it out. After than try sealing the hose but, if the soap and load levels are right or below where they ought to be, it won’t or shouldn’t leak from there.
K.
Re: Oven Replacement – Please help
Normally it’s usually only the depth that will vary and the shape along the top to accommodate services such as a gas pipe.
Other than that, they’re all pretty much the same.
K.
Re: whirlpool fride (ART 417/G) stat
VXO should do it, you’ll just need to coil the phial in the housing or somewhere and make sure the tip is where the original one was.
But, should be okay.
K.
Re: Bosch WAQ283S0 bearings shot after 1000 washes?
Hi Mary,
Trouble is that if the bearings have failed then it’s almost sure to be viewed as wear and tear so you will struggle to get anywhere using the SoGA as, wear and tear is pretty much excluded.
Plus, you’d get a settlement (if you can prove the case) that will take into account recession and depreciation and that will often mean that you’d get a few pounds back at best.
Another option could be this that we’ve just published this morning;
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/appliance … ines-on-tv
If you’re prepared to go for it and give Bosch a bit of a kicking of course if that’s how it turns out.
K.
Re: Kompact oven BIEF900SS fan
Yeah, shouldn’t be a problem, just email Dave about it.
Don’t understand why it’s wrong though.
K.
Re: Which cooker hood
Yeah, they go from very low level right up to pretty expensive just before you get into the mega money ones.
They are a good all round bet in hoods though.
K.
Re: Ripped off – Dodgy engineers?
To answer the basic question that you are asking, no that does not sound right.
They may as well have cracked out an ouija board and prayed to the sun god as pushed the back wall to detect a leak. A complete nonsense frankly if they did that and, I don’t much care who it was, that’s shoddy an unprofessional in my opinion.
If I did that when on the road a certain part of my anatomy would be meeting a sling shortly after along with temporary deafness from the reaming I’d get.
All about compressors here:
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/fix- … ompressors
The symptoms you describe are classic indicators of a simple compressor failure, nothing more, nothing less.
It is also true to say that, it is a lengthy job to do and that, whether it has bearing or not, that the repair would almost for sure have cost more than you paid them. Read into either of both as you choose.
K.
Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water
I can explain it but, you may not like the answer in a way…
The thermistor is not exposed to water at all and never should be. If it is, the resistance will be wrong and all manners of mad things can happen.
If the machine is overloaded it will leak through the back of the soap drawer, run round the tank and onto the thermistor. Very common to happen.
Too much detergent can have the same effect in two ways, excessive water released from laundry on spin and all the more if coupled with overloading and/or the dispenser doesn’t clear fast enough and, leaks out the drawer again and runs onto the thermistor.
Usually if you let it dry out then take account of the above and it’ll be fine.
And, hence the intermittent nature or results.
If the machine doesn’t heat at all it’ll error out. You will not feel heat in the glass on most programs.
K.
Re: How cold
I’d imagine then it’s whether or not there’s a business case for the cost it’d incur to get something that would do that.
I’d make sure and try it first though before parting with that kinda money. 😉
K.
Re: How cold
Quite probably all of the above.
The cabinets for domestic use are designed to get down to a mean temperature of -18?C which is the ideal storage temperature for frozen foodstuffs. In reality they cycle above and below that but only by a few degrees.
The seals are not designed to operate beyond that.
The cabinet internals, evaporator and insulation are all not designed to operate much below that.
No domestic thermostat will operate at those sorts of temperatures and, I’ve never seen a commercial one with that kind of range on it either. I’d bet they cost a pretty penny as well.
The compressors are also the same, commercial use compressors are a whole different ball game. Much meatier with a lot more oomph and a *much* higher price tag.
Gas used in commercial is often R22 or whatever, not R600a you will hardly ever find R600 used in a true commercial unit.
So at a guess, you’ve got no chance of making a domestic unit get even anywhere near -40?C let alone any cooler than that.
I honestly don’t know how you’d take a unit down that low as I’ve never had call to even look that given it’s medical or scientific use and therefore highly specialised indeed. And, as you point out rightly, specialist equipment like that will run to many thousands of pounds as, it’s specialised and often more or less bespoke for the task it’s required for.
What do you need a unit to get down to that for anyway?
K.
Re: How cold
If you mean to get it down to -150?C you’re not *VERY* specialised equipment I’d think as no domestic unit would ever get even anywhere remotely close to that.
Think, maybe , -30?C if you’re lucky with a very good unit.
K.
