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Re: Hoover AM120 Washing Mc
andy2 wrote:you got this huge orifice in the background spewing forth all maner of pointless drivel.
Andy 🙂Yep, why don’t they just go away and only come back when it’s time to pay the bill? 🙂 Or better still just leave a signed cheque for you to write out for yourself when you’re done. It was reading a similar thread on here which led me to choose my sign in name.
Mike.Re: WMA44 no motor action
I always carry a small selection of (cheap) brushes without holders for such situations. I can then effect a temporary repair and only need return at a time most convenient to me.
In this case I would have left the old brushes in but “topped them up” with some bits cut off from some AEG types available cheap from Seme.
If it’s a real old banger, a “temporary” repair can be considered permanent.
Sometimes I cut the odd shaped terminals off the old Bosch ones and crimp them carefully to the AEG brush leads. Make sure the final lead length is just right so that the brush runs out before it gets to the lead when it wears down. (To avoid armature damage).
The technique works for loads of different makes.
Mike.Re: What’s a BER?
Well thanks for the pronto response gegs 🙂
Must say I feel pretty thick for not having been able to work that one out.I think we’re all agreed that some of these BERs would be E’ly R’ble if the spares were not priced out of proportion to the original cost of the machine. What I like about Beko washing machines is that they’re easy to work on and the spares are reasonably priced. Does anyone else like them?
I don’t like Miele all that much. IMO,when they go wrong the parts cost an arm and a leg. They’re very heavy to move around and access to motor for brush changes etc is not half as easy as on a cheap,light, plastic tub machine.They’re supposed to be super reliable and that may be so but who’s done the independent analysis? Might seem to us that we don’t see many of them, but what’s their share of the UK market?The old 95 Hotpoints we all liked because we got used to them. We could repair them with one hand tied behind our backs. So now we regret their passing. But, from the customers’ point of view, they were often slated as unreliable.
I’m rambling. I must have gone into error mode. 😕
Mike.Re: To good to be true
Phidom wrote:I hate throwing new bits away so I now have hundreds of these seals knocking around….
Know the feeling. Would you like some plastic pump brackets, ‘fridge ‘stat knobs & fixings, amptag insulators, etc etc to go with them? I’d throw in a few yoghurt pots if you’d pay the postage. 😆
Maybe when the WEEE comes in we can send them back to the manufacturers 💡
Mike.Re: Help Yourself First
andy2 wrote:Mike
I don’t have a fax machine myself but use a fax to email service.
Andy
Thanks for the tip Andy. I may look into it when the need arises.
Still, can’t imagine why anyone would want to use fax to contact a repairman.
Mike.Re: Advice sought to repair cooker module Electrolux EPSOPMS
Hi Brains,
Thanks first for reminding me about the timer module. I’ll give it a closer visual check again when I go back,and cross my fingers. 🙂Looking at the only diagram of an opto coupler I have to hand, a Maplin catalogue, it has 4 feet. I can’t see anything on this board with more than 3 and less than 14. ❗ The triac’s gate is fed via a resistor from one of the penultimate legs on the main IC. This last has a label:”SPOBT230HEX
28077729-0 Ind A 05F0″ Maybe it has an opto-coupler in it? I’ll have a look at RS site later and see if I can find it.💡 Would I risk damaging the new board if I linked it up to the mains to test voltages the way I’ve been doing with this one ❓
This has been fruitful so far in that I have re-learned a few things I had forgotten and improved my soldering technique somewhat. (Although you might be a bit 😯 if you could see this board now!)
Cheers,
Mike.Re: Tricity Bendix BDW60 “all lights flash”
Thanks Dave,
I’ll let you know by Tuesday if you were right. 🙂
MikeRe: Electrolux EPSOPMSS oven pnc 944250330 s/n 30403221
Many thanks, Dave. Dunno how you do it!
Mike.
Re: Advice sought to repair cooker module Electrolux EPSOPMS
Replaced all four electrolytics this morning. Still have same voltages. 😕
Could it be that it is nevertheless OK/fixed ❓
Didn’t want to take it round and go through all that again with so much doubt, so rang customer and explained situation. She says time now more important than money, go for brand new part @ £90 odd.
OK so I get on to my Distriparts man and his exploded diagrams don’t quite tally with mine 🙄 . Therefore am posting now in trade spares to get correct part no. 😉
When,probably in a week or so, I have that then I’ll take the old one with me too and give it one last try.
Meantime, any further ideas 💡 welcomed. 🙂
Mike.Re: Advice sought to repair cooker module Electrolux EPSOPMS
“Do you have access to an oscilloscope?”
Used to have one but sold it ‘cos it never got used!
“If yes, take a look at the ripple.”
Not sure I’d know what was normal anyway.
“From what you describe, i think that that a lot of current is being pulled from the regulator. With the testing you have just done, is this with the load connected or disconnected?”
Load(as in cooker elements and timer module) is all still at the customer’s house. Otherwise, last test described made with all elements on board still soldered in.“Is the diode connected across the regulator output i.e cathode to + & anode to ground?”
There is a smallish red diode just downstream from the regulator. Its plain (no line) end is connected to O on the reg. The other end goes off to various smd’s.
“In my view you may have a shorted capacitor that damaged the original regulator.”
There are only 4 electrolytics on the “component”side of the board. The largest, nearest to the reg., 220u 35v, checks ok (in circuit) with an old analogue meter on the 1k scale.The others are less sure. Perhaps I should just try replacing them all?“I would take the regulator out so that the unregulated side is running unloaded,”
Isn’t that what I did before?Oh no, you’re right, I disconnected at the unrectified side of the diodes before.But the rectifier diodes have all checked OK so I think you’re right that the problem will be downstream.” check the ripple with the scope. If okay, use your meter from the 5V rail to ground and see if there is a short. If yes, then check the caps & then the ICs.”
With ICs, Iwouldn’t know where to start.
Be interested to know how you get on.
Have just checked between regulator I & O (in circuit) and it looks like it may have been damaged again as resistance is low.
I very much appreciate your help Brains 🙂 , however I’m beginning to think QER now as customer is probably getting anxious.(And the fun’s wearing off). 🙁Re: What is the most useful tool in your toolbox?
I find a long pair of surgical forceps useful. Got mine in an angling shop for £4. They use them for getting hooks out. I use them for getting bra wires, socks, coins etc. out.
Cable ties can also be used as tools in many situations and are the most useful things for all sorts of fixing jobs. For example,fixing together broken plastic pieces, sometimes by the judicious drilling of a hole here or there to pass the cable tie through.
Re: Advice sought to repair cooker module Electrolux EPSOPMS
Have put in new regulator. Put mains on again. (This is off appliance w. no other components connected.) Now have abt. 2.5v between “gnd” and “I” and same between gnd and “O”. But only 0.17v between I & O
Also regulator quickly heats up. All diodes check OK. (except a little pink one way down the line which probably would check OK if I desoldered it).
Well maybe it has to be connected up with timer board and elements before it’ll act like I expect it to?
Anyway, most of the rest is smd’s and a couple of chips so if it don’t work now it’s going to QER methinks.
Thanks for the help guys. 🙂
Will update in a few days.
Mike.Re: Hoover AC90-001 washing machine spin problem
Another way to check a tacho is to measure voltage across the tacho connector, at timer if easily accessible or motor if not, as you spin the motor pulley with fingers. I usually find it’s about 2 or 2.5v , think it’s ac but can’t remember for sure. This way you’re checking magnet as well.
Might be worth a search through the forum under hoover spin problem as lots of similar models.
Re: Help Yourself First
I’ve thought about signing up but have a couple of reservations.cf:
1. I only cover about 50 sq miles with a population of around 25,000. So is an extra £12 worth of insurance justified?(I’m with Semploy too). Does anyone from TR18/19/20 ever request? More than 4 jobs /year?(My current ad cost is about £3/new customer attracted).
2. I don’t have fax machine.
3. I don’t look at my e-mail every day.
I don’t imagine any customers would be seriously inconvenienced by these last two things but I’m not going to rush to make my life any more complicated. I like to keep things simple.I wouldn’t have bothered you with these details but you asked why not everyone was rushing to sign up. 🙂
Oh, one more thing. I don’t think of this business as my life’s work. I hope one day to move to some sort of outdoor job. So when I’m not busy, I’m not too bothered because it gives me time to think about where I’m going. 🙂
