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The Aspera BPE1111Y is a 1/6hp compressor, too small for this Fridge Freezer… Dave’s quoted HTP14AH which I think is a 1/4hp compressor… I would fit a NBM116Y Aspera compressor to this model. A lot of these ocean fridge freezers had alli pipes lock-ringed to the compressor…. also check for corroded condenser pipes where they touch the low-side pipe.
Re: Samsung Refrigeration Training
No sorry, wife has just told me I can’t make it 😳 She has booked a suprise break which I have just spoiled 🙁 Maybe next time.
Re: noisy fan/E2 fault/no service engineers in my area
Yes defrosting it could stop the noise if the fan is hitting ice.
Take a look at this thread;
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … pic&t=4509Re: Samsung Refrigeration Training
Where will this be held and will it be possible to obtain service manuals at the sema time?
Re: Broken fridge/freezer – repair or replace?
Defrost it for 48hrs and that should cure the refrigeration side and the cracking noise.
Re: Amana SRD5265S dead??
I found a little turn-switch underneath the freezer that needs to be turned (it makes a small clicking noise whilst doing so) until it makes a loud click. I need to turn this each time otherwise the when I get the fridge/freezer to come on only the lights come on and the condensor doesn’t operate, I assume this is some sort of resettable fuse device.
This is the defrost timer… It will run the compressor for eight hour and then the defrost heater for 20 minutes. If the defrost timer was in the defrost position when you first found it, I would check the Main heater and Defrost termination stats for earth leaks.
I don’t recognise that model (not SRD526SS is it?), but on the 520’s a common fault was that the thermostat Capillary tube runs very close to the tags and can move slightly causing a short to earth. I have also seen the push block connectors (freezer section) melt and short while giving no external evidence that they have failed.
Re: ZX79/5SI fridge problems
It could be faulty evaporator thermistor… If it is, I would advice you get an engineer to change it as it is a devil of a job to replace yourself.
Re: Cooling problem with a Hotpoint Mistral 8596P
I know you say the light switch switches the light off when pressed, but have you tried taping the door light switch in the closed position?
Re: Known Test Procedures
washdoctor wrote:Hotpoint Mistral Range of F/F
Test Procedure for these are –
Turn appliance off at the mains, press and hold SAVE and switch on at mains and release SAVE.
The sequence will now start –
Evap defrost heater will activate for 10secs, then
Gutter heater 10secs, then
F/F LED display 10 secs, then
Evap fan 10 secs.If a fault is found, the following error codes will apply –
E1 – Freezer thermister o/c
E2 – Freezer thermister s/c
E3 – Fridge thermister o/c
E4 – Fridge thermister s/c
E7 – Evaporator thermister o/c
E8 – Evaporator thermister s/c
EA – No feedback from baffle motor switch
EB – fridge baffle motor running constantly
EE – Defrost heater timed out.Hope these help!
I would just like to add: that if you switch the appliance on with the door open, it will do a short test and then fire-up the compressor… very useful if you don’t want to wait for the end of a defrost cycle.
