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Re: Defrosted now dead ?
Below where the yellow thermistor fits into the evaporator, there will probably be a brown thermal fuse… if you heated this with your hair dryer, while the F/F was still plugged in, it will fail and cause the problem you are reporting.
If its running and not freezing, then you have a gas problem… the gurgling usually means it’s a gas leak.
Look for oil traces from the leak on any pipe-work… and look for rust on condenser at back where it touches insulated pipes.
If you find a leak, call an engineer.
As Bryan has said, this is usually due to a faulty evaporator sensor. Bosch can supply a kit that bypasses this internal thermistor.
This type of F/F has a fridge evaporator… so if the compressor is running and the fridge back wall is warm, you have a gas fault.
If the door has been left open on any frost free model… Switch off for 24 to 48 hours to clear the evaporator.
Clicking when using the water and ice is usually caused by a faulty PCB in the freezer door (depending on which model).
If you are having the same symptoms as before “fridge stopped working”, call back the engineer.
Re: Hotpoint FF pools of water
psrrub02 – Some of these fridge freezers, where the drain pipe runs through the insulation (apposed to running outside the insulation under the condenser), are freezing as they pass by the freezer.
To confirm this is happening, switch off the appliance for 24 hours and see if the blockage disappears (defrosts.)
To repair it, the pipe needs to be re-rooted outside the insulation (which is a job for a qualified engineer).
Jammy1959 – A straw will not usually unblock a drain pipe. Use a long cable tie or even a long length of twin speaker cable etc.
Re: FRIDGE FREEZER NOT GETTING COLD ENOUGH..
pierre.croucher wrote:Thanks for your reply.
In my daft logic i was hoping it might make it act like a non frost free freezer.
Iv got a new timer ordered it should be here wednesday.In the mean time ive turned her off.So the ice build up behind the drawers melts away.I wont turn it on until iv fitted the new timer.
How would i best go about improving drainage? Shouldnt it be able to cope its self?
What do you suggest i do.
Many thanksI just drill a small 4mm hole in the timer housing (at the lowest point) to prevent water gathering over time.
It shows the fan is OK…. I think you have done everything you can, you have changed the yellow thermistor, checked the light switch, cleaned out the condenser and checked the condenser fan-motor.
The fan will operate when the yellow thermistor senses the evaporator assembly is cold enough… a form of fan delay after defrost. So when the fan fails to operate, it is usually due to the sensor/PCB falsely sensing, or the evaporator not getting cold enough (compressor or condenser fan faulty).
Re: FRIDGE FREEZER NOT GETTING COLD ENOUGH..
pierre.croucher wrote:Hi iv got a BEKO CDA 543 FX
She isnt getting cold enough in the freezer section.She will freeze but it takes a couple of days for newly added stuff to freeze.The fridge is working fine.
According to the freezer thermomitor its not going low enough.
I had a look around the back,and the defrost timer is full of water.And is rusty inside.
Iv just disconected the defrost timer and it appears to be getting warmer in the freezer.Any ideas on what is wrong .The wire to the timer has a sponge wrapped round it,this is soaked.
You can not disconnect the timer and expect it to work… doing so will stop the power supply to the compressor and/or defrost cycle.Change the timer if it’s rusty and add drainage to prevent the cover filling up with water.
